intake manifold 460 ?
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From: I live in a warehouse in
intake manifold 460 ?
I have a '73 460 in my truck and I'm in the process of swapping out the carb. I'm putting in a non-egr carb (I don't need to worry about emissions). I have the OEM intake manifold which has a small diamond-shaped plate with 2 vaccuum nipples on it next to the carb, more or less right under the choke housing on the carb. 1 hose went to the egr and the other went up to the choke. The plate is bolted onto the intake manifold with 2 bolts. Since I took out the egr, I would like to clean up the looks there and remove that plate so I don't have 2 capped-off nipples there. Does anyone know if the bolts thread into the intake manifold, or if there's a nut on the under-side of the intake? I don't want a nut falling off under there!
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It screws into the casting.
Had you posted this in the 385 engine forum it would have been answered a couple hours ago.
funny you mention this part..I was in the garage today and had to pick up some parts off the floor. the heat coil assembly was one of them
Had you posted this in the 385 engine forum it would have been answered a couple hours ago.
funny you mention this part..I was in the garage today and had to pick up some parts off the floor. the heat coil assembly was one of them
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: East Central Florida
Knight,
Yeah, Dennis is right as usual, the casting is threaded.
Be sure you use a short enough replacement bolt, or better yet stud so as to avoid bottoming out in the cast manifolds thread boss. That = "A Sticky Wicket" if you bottom out & strip bolts/ studs in thread bosses (I use studs w/ St Steel Acorn Nuts for more "finshed look" myself).
FBp
Yeah, Dennis is right as usual, the casting is threaded.
Be sure you use a short enough replacement bolt, or better yet stud so as to avoid bottoming out in the cast manifolds thread boss. That = "A Sticky Wicket" if you bottom out & strip bolts/ studs in thread bosses (I use studs w/ St Steel Acorn Nuts for more "finshed look" myself).
FBp
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Thanks Mil1ion and FordBoypete for your replies. Mil1ion, I kinda of forget about the 385 forum at times. It's sort of intimidating to those of us who don't have to tear deep into the internals very often. I guess I'm finally really learning something about my truck. FordBoypete, I've got myself into "A Sticky Wicket" but not as you described. After first spraying with PBblaster, I got one bolt right out, but the other snapped right off. I've made a little plate to cover that hole but I am unsure (doubting) whether the one bolt (with some RTV) will hold it. Any ideas on how to get the busted one out? Of course, I'd prefer to not remove the intake manifold . . .
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From: East Central Florida
Knight,
I'd be willing to bet the one that failed is bottomed out in thread boss 'cause that is
what happens when they are. It's also why I prefer studs as I mentioned. . . .
If you can get a clean shot at it, center punch it and bore it out with a 3/16 drill bit.
Measure the bore depth of the empty thread boss, mark the bit accordingly & only go about that deep. Try using a good stud extractor to coax it out of there.
For the sake of discussion, it shouldn't hurt you to knick the bottom of the thread boss bore a few 32nds of an inch to relieve compressed tension of bottomed out bolt.
There will be hot exhaust gasses in there when it's running, so I doubt RTV's a answer there. I make a 1/4" or 5/16" thick plates & use new composite gaskets like OEM EGR set up uses, so it stays sealed up. I also seal my Exhause port galley in the heads too.
If you opt for bolt over studs, get them short emough & Be Sure to use Anti Sieze Compound on installation this time too.
I Sure Hope this is of some help to you.
FBp
I'd be willing to bet the one that failed is bottomed out in thread boss 'cause that is
what happens when they are. It's also why I prefer studs as I mentioned. . . .
If you can get a clean shot at it, center punch it and bore it out with a 3/16 drill bit.
Measure the bore depth of the empty thread boss, mark the bit accordingly & only go about that deep. Try using a good stud extractor to coax it out of there.
For the sake of discussion, it shouldn't hurt you to knick the bottom of the thread boss bore a few 32nds of an inch to relieve compressed tension of bottomed out bolt.
There will be hot exhaust gasses in there when it's running, so I doubt RTV's a answer there. I make a 1/4" or 5/16" thick plates & use new composite gaskets like OEM EGR set up uses, so it stays sealed up. I also seal my Exhause port galley in the heads too.
If you opt for bolt over studs, get them short emough & Be Sure to use Anti Sieze Compound on installation this time too.
I Sure Hope this is of some help to you.
FBp
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Thanks FordBoypete,
I've got some thick stock to make a plate out of. I made one but it wasn't as thick as you mentioned so I'll start over. I'll need to do some work on getting that busted bolt out. There's a little bit sticking out, but not enough for a vice grips. I spent quite a while filing a groove for a screw driver, but it's not enough to get a good bite. I guess I'll have to drill.
You said you seal the exhaust port galley in the heads. How did you go about that? I just wanted to seal off the hole in the intake manifold that's in the "L" shaped groove on the rear left corner under the carb.
I've got some thick stock to make a plate out of. I made one but it wasn't as thick as you mentioned so I'll start over. I'll need to do some work on getting that busted bolt out. There's a little bit sticking out, but not enough for a vice grips. I spent quite a while filing a groove for a screw driver, but it's not enough to get a good bite. I guess I'll have to drill.
You said you seal the exhaust port galley in the heads. How did you go about that? I just wanted to seal off the hole in the intake manifold that's in the "L" shaped groove on the rear left corner under the carb.
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