No emissions required out here, On this F-350 dually, there is a Huge EGR casting under the 4-v carb. on the right side there is a "lobe" that jets out form under the carb, (and cast into the intake)
I want to remove the EGR and Casting, and bolt the carb right to the intake, but the lobe would create a HUGE vac leak.
Does anyone make an EGR casting-delete plate? (not and EGR delete, that just blocks where the EGR valve bolts to the casting), I need to remove the casting too.
Thanks
Happy Thanksgiving!
Reamer

 

None that I've ever found that covers the 460 'ear'...
That's why I bought a Performer intake.

If you want to make your own you're going to need a 1" carb spacer to keep the throttle cable aligned anyhow.

What's the problem with your egr?
It only gains mileage and power by allowing you to run more advance and leaner mixtures.

 

All the emissions parts are either Rusted, broken, or missing, and since this is a "yard - farm" truck really only driving around town to get gas, and occasional Home Depot run,
mileage is a non issue. My daily drivers are a restored 86 Flareside 4x4, (the "fair weather" machine), and my 97 Supercab 4x4.
The company car is the real daily driver.

 

The hole you need to plug is actually an exhaust port.
I had done it years ago on my 460 out of necessity as the spacer was missing when I got the truck. I think my fix involved tapping the hole for a pipe plug and jb weld.
I seem to remember that the stock Holley had linkage interference with the manifold however. In your case I would probably do a block off plate on the back in place of the valve and leave the spacer in place.

 

Rebuilt the same truck engine combo for a friend and we had to go to a Performer intake for same reason. I'm with 82F100SWB if the plate is ok just leave in place and cut a piece of metal to plug where valve mounts would be much easier.

 

I de-emissioned my 460, went with an Edelbrock Performer to avoid trying to cover up with a spacer, plates, etc.

 

If you're going to run the stock intake you'll need to run the EGR spacer to cover the exhaust "ear". Then if you want to delete the EGR block it off where the valve bolts on.

I've been thinking about swapping out my stock intake for a performer but I'm not sure I want to delete the EGR for the reasons Ard mentions. I don't want to lose any of my 9 mpg.

You 460 guys running the performer intake without EGR, how's that working out for you, are you happy with it?

 

I have to use premium gasoline to avoid knock at tip-in from cruise.
Really, I need to recurve my distributor..
But this curve was fine with the old EGR connected.

Otherwise the Performer runs fine.
Its got to be 50# lighter than cast iron and the plenum floor warms up quicker that stock.

 

Thanks Ard, happy Thanksgiving to you!

Any effect on mileage or power? Also, where you getting your vac advance? Manifold or ported?

 

The Performer seems to flow a little better on top.

I am using manifold vacuum through the yellow vacuum switch and the little blue restriction just like stock.

 

Thanks Ard, do you have any vacuum at idle? Since my vacuum switch stuck open during the hot weather last summer I've been running full manifold vac via the stock system. With base at 12 plus another 12 vac advance the timing at idle is a crazy 24, but it doesn't ping and comes off the line strong.

That much advance at idle seems crazy to me, not sure what to think about that. I guess the vac advance largely goes away once the throttle is opened and comes back in at light throttle highway cruise.

 

24 seems normal or even a little low to me.
Iirc mine is 30 or more. (It's off the scale at any rate)

If it works, it works.
Why be concerned?

 

24 seems normal, or even low to me.
Mine is well off the scale (30+degrees) with vacuum connected.
I have 20" vacuum at idle.
The truck is fine off the line, just a problem when centrifugal is added in.

I definitely need to cut back on the amount of vacuum advance.