Hi I need to replace Ball joints on My two trucks. Just the lowers on both. Ive got a 1994 F-150 4x4 w/ 302 and a 1989 F-250 4x4 w/ 351. The mechanic I know well says I cant do it myself because it has 4 wheel drive. Can i do it just by renting a ball joint press from my local auto parts store. He wanted $875 just for the F-150!!!!!!!

 

Read the post a few down from here. He is doing the same thing this weekend.

Mike

 

There is no reason you can't do it yourself. Besides a ball joint press, you will need a special socket for the nut on a 4X4 axle. Get a manual(or copy the pages out of a manual at the library), and go for it.

Unless the upper ball joints on both trucks have been replaced recently, you may as well do the uppers at the same time, saving yourself the labor of doing this job again any time soon.

 

And get a wheel alignment when you are done because the upper ball joint uses a bushing to set caster and camber. When you change ball joints the angles will most likely change.

 

And you will need the special wheel bearing socket, looks like a big socket with 4 little **** sticking out. They are different for the 1/2 ton to the 3/4 ton. Napa sells a combo unit that has both in one. Really reasonable price. Check out this thread for my post on instructions to do it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ll-joints.html

 

I had all 4 of mine done for about half that at Tread Quarters. I did it myself on another truck. A lot of labor, need a big hammer and a 12 pack. Good time to clean and pack wheel bearings.

 

I looked around some for the socket on online parts sites (ie. Autozone) and they have a bunch but which ones will I need for both my 89 250 and 94 150. I want to make sure I get the right ones before I buy them. I figured I'd ask here before I ask the idiots at the stores.

 

I don't want to be a poopoo; but, if you don't have much experience with suspension repair, ball joints are fairly difficult replacement. It can be very hard and frustrating for a novice mechanic.

If you feel you still want to try it, Get a book first and follow each step - if you can, try to get someone who has done ball joints before to help.

good luck.

Oscar

 

I did all four on my 94 4x4 a couple of months ago. You can rent the hand press from some parts stores or after you get the knuckle off you can take it to a machine shop with a large press and they will press the old ones out and the new ones in for you. I think they charged me about 26 bucks a side. Still quite abit less than your shop. Check your U-joints too while you are in there it is a good time to change them.

GOOD LUCK

 

There is a picture of the two sockets that you will need, the one on the left is for the 1/2 ton, the one on the right is for the 3/4 ton. Depending on if that 3/4 ton has the light duty front end then it will be the same as the 1/2 ton. The picture is in my gallery. At the bottum look for 1992 f150 4x4 and the album is called my pictures. I hope it works cause i am good at fixing trucks, but computers **** me off.

 

Ok I know exactly what I need now.

Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help.

Anything other than axel joints to replace while I have er all ripped apart?

I just bought it and had the lower left ball joint, left axel joint, and right tie rod end done to pass inspection. I was confident I could have done it myself but I wanted to get it on the road right away and just didn't have the time.

Im selling the 150 so im just goin to replace both lower ball joints but my new well old toy the 89 Im goin to replace all four ball joints but other than that if you have any suggestions for when its ripped apart let me know.

Thanks, Jason

 

Repack the wheel bearings and use new seals. You have them apart anyways so you might as well do em now instead of when they fail. Check front brakes, since you will have them apart too. You know about the axle joints which is good, but make sure to get the actual spicer joints instead of the aftermarket ones at the parts stores because you will need the rounded caps to get the axles to go back through the hole in the knuckle. If you replace the axle u-joints and re-install the axle before the knuckle, you wont be able to remove the axle shaft with a joint with non rounded caps. I was not impressed when i did that on my 92. If you really want to get picky, then replace the torington bearins (inside the spindle close to the knuckle and only get used when the front axle shafts turn). These will require a special puller set or some delicate chisle work to get them out. I would if i had it all apart, and they felt a little rough, because you pretty much have to take it all apart, less actually removing the knuckle, to change them if they fail.

 

Yea I just put a pair of loaded calipers on the front end, new flex rubber hoses, and a leaking steel line on the drivers side but ill deffinetely do the axel joints, and the wheel bearings with new seals. Thanks for the reply, anthing else im forgetting?

 

i mean i replaced a leaking line not put one on...ooppps

 

You dont neccisarily have to replace the wheel bearing if they are not making noise, but definetly repack them with new seals to prolong their life. They are not too terribly exspensive to do if you want the added peace of mind. Does this truck have the TTB front end in it? If so, the middle u-joint is a PITA, since the stub axle is held on with a c-clip inside the housing, and requires pulling the housing off the suspension arm, NOT FUN. If you go to the trouble of pulling the housing, then I would suggest a u-joint removal tool so you dont have to remove the stub axle to get replace the u-joint. Pull both axle shafts before removing the housing and the stub shaft or it wont be able to come back and drop out. Other than that, You have pretty much removed all of your front diff. The middle axle joint doesnt see as much abuse as the other joints becasue it doesnt move as much as the outers do.