Monsterbaby, Thanks for info. Just ordered mine and after all the good stuff last few days had to subscribe because of good folks like you and Clux and Betthebux. Appreciate all the help. Now I am looking for the water pump. Dave

 

i just put in a new water pump 4 days ago .. after reading this thread I think i'm ordering this next paycheck !

 

Reckon sometimes our thinking needs filtered,,,er,,,treated,,,maybe both!!!

Always best to remember Golden Rule! "Filter others as you want to be filtered"

Gotta go, time for my "treatment"

 

TNT, how about details on Water Pump replacement?? I did order the filter from Dieselsite just now but not purchased water pump. Texas here too near Lubbock so maybe same stores?? Dave

 

my exwife and her boyfriend have a shop - he's a mechanic so I was able to get the parts and their cost. They were both Ford OEM.

The WP replacement was really pretty easy. Getting the fan off is probably the worst part. Actually just used a LARGE crescent wrench to take the fan off. After you drain the radiator, take off the resivoir. Two bolts at the top of the shroud and lift it and the fan out.

Once I got the water pump off, took out the top pipe and sensor, there's one hole you ahve to plug (mine came with plugs). Also replaced the thermostat. Cleaned off the mount on the engine, put in the o-ring and back in place.

Umm... make SURE you don't have the CPS wire caught between the water pump and engine .. DOH !!!!

 

The kit was good, install was easy, only thing not in the kit that I used was some Locktite and teflon tape and paste for the threaded fittings. If I can find the camera I'll write up a tech article on the install with pics.

I used the following tools:

Torque wrench, 9/16" socket, 9/16" wrench, 11/16" wrench, 10mm wrench, straight blade screwdriver, utility knife

Here are some things I ran into that I'll give you a heads up on.

I could not get the nut that holds the rubber gromet loose so I used a screwdriver to pry the rubber open and pushed the notch on the bracket up into the groove of the gromet. When installing the bracket and filter housing, there is no spec listed for torque so I decided to go with 40 lb-ft and I used Locktite 242 (blue removable strength) on the fasteners.

I used both teflon tape and teflon paste pipe thread sealant on the hose barb fittings and plugs. I guess that's from force of habit putting together fittings on HP steam lines. Last week we did some for the 175# atomizing steam header we're putting in(2" header w/ 1" drop legs), not the kind of thing where you want to have to go back and re-do or try to tighten up a leak on.

Watch where you connect the outlet from the filter to the air bleed line going to the oveflow tank. I did mine like the picture in the instructions, but the tee wound up being right on top of the upper radiator hose. You need to be careful so you don't cut the radiator hose, and I'd cut in to that air bleed line closer to the overflow tank to avoid any issues like the hose clamps rubbing or chafing the radiator hose. I wound up taping a small piece of rubber from an old bed mat over the radiator hose to prevent any future problem with that, and I might even end up relocating the tee down the road.

Another thing to watch is when you cut into the heater hose. I had some coolant gravity drain from the overflow tank, not a lot of fluid but it was a tad messy. I'd recommend clamping the heater hose on both sides of the cut before you take the knife to her to negate that issue. Vise grips will do the trick, as will C clamps or bar clamps. I don't think spring clamps would be enough to keep the hose pinched shut unless they're pretty stiff ones.

Hope this helps make your install easier and cleaner.

 

If you ever shook a new unused coolant filter you can hear a waffer rattling around in it , from what I uderstand the waffer is chemicals which dissolve into the coolant to protect the metal internal components of the engine and recondition the coolant , if you have you oils and fluids tested at intervals , for the coolant they will make a recomendation on what percentage of chemicls you needs as the coolant filters come in different percentages of chemicals , there is alot more to it than that , call your local filter dealer and they can give you the low down

 

No not any more. Since Ford went to the gold fluid they do not treat the antifreeze w/ the filters given the new particulates in it (suppose to be good for 100,000 miles). I think you'll also find www.dieselsite,com doesn't sell the charged filters any more, maybe due to this.

 

I found the dieselsite kit to be great in terms of install.. I bought the kit as well as the optional stainless shutoffs.. The only downer IMHO was #1 the fasterners/bolts.. Can I get some stainless>>And either a split washer or a nylon/stainless locknut.... So I went to the hardware store and bought all stainless LOCKIJNG fasteners... then the only other thing I did was where any of the hoses cam into contact with another***I had one that was a little close to the discarge tubing off the turbo** I took some 3/4 heater hose and split it..Making a sleeve to protect the hose>>>Probably overkill but better safe than sorry..

either way it was a great kit...I can live with having to replace the fasteners with stainless***Myy preference which I do with all bolt ons** and the teflon tape was no biggie either.. Ill be cutting mine open and snapping a pic here over christmas break.. Should be interesting to see what all it catches..

 

I agree, did the same using nylock nuts. Also added a hose protector. See Coolant filter tech file in my gallery to see it . . .