Separating hub from drum or does it?
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Separating hub from drum or does it?
I ordered new drums for my '79 2wd f250 super cab camper special with dana 61 axle. They arrived but don't look like mine in that the hub is not a single unit with the drum, as mine "appears" to be. I even took the drum and hub to the parts guy and he agreed mine looked to be a single unit.
Is mine a single unit or simply fused over time? If it's fused, I could use some help 'cause I've beat it with a rubber mallet followed with a 2 lb sledge and wooden block. Somewhere I read to remove some screws but I can't find any!
Is mine a single unit or simply fused over time? If it's fused, I could use some help 'cause I've beat it with a rubber mallet followed with a 2 lb sledge and wooden block. Somewhere I read to remove some screws but I can't find any!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: west central florida
the wheel studs need to be removed to separate the two pieces, then pressed or hammered back in with the new drum, the studs are knurled to fit tightly into the hub so they wont just fall apart
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From: Augusta.GA
removing lugs to separate hub from drum
thanks for replying buzzbait65. I knew there was some trick like that if it was to come off. How do I get the studs out? And back on again? Will a block of wood and sledge tap them out? Would using an extension and socket slightly smaller than the diameter of the stud work to put them back?
Last edited by crawlfish; Dec 8, 2006 at 05:09 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: west central florida
the sledge and wood will work fine, the studs have a larger head, like a bolt, so you can use whatever will work for reinstall, just be sure to check lug tightness after some driving in case some of the studs didnt get fully seated
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
Best to press them out if you have a press available, plan "B" is to knock 'em out with your big hammer but use a large brass drift to protect the studs and threads.
After all mating surfaces are cleaned reassemble but align the stud grooves or broach marks up with the broach grooves in your hub. Bang them in hard to fully seat the studs.
After all mating surfaces are cleaned reassemble but align the stud grooves or broach marks up with the broach grooves in your hub. Bang them in hard to fully seat the studs.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
don't have a press available or a brass drift. I've heard of a drift but wouldn't recognize one if it was in front of me. I'll do a net search see if I can find a picture of one. I'll start by using the hammer and 2x4 block. If it splits I'll see if I can find one. thanks for the info guys
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Somewhere Saskatchewan
A drift is just a large chunk of metal softer than the part you are pounding on.
Shaped like a chisel or punch.
Shaped like a chisel or punch.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Williamson, NY
Put a lug nut on the stud just far enough, so it's flush with the top of the stud to protect the threads on the stud before you drive it out.
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
Ok guys thanks. I sort of remembered or deduced what a drift was. local supply had bar stock steel but nothing like that. i'm going to try the alternatives but out of curiosity where would one find something like that?
cujo i'll use a lug nut to keep from damaging the thread. i'd forgotten that bit.
cujo i'll use a lug nut to keep from damaging the thread. i'd forgotten that bit.
Last edited by crawlfish; Dec 9, 2006 at 09:34 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Williamson, NY
Here are some Drift Punches from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41976
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41976
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Augusta.GA
helpful tools
wow, thanks... i've been buying alot from them lately and I got to go there Monday to exchange a brake set for the larger one anyway... preciate the link! somehow i envisioned a "drift" as being bigger than a "punch"
Could you look at these bearing tools and see if you felt there was any useful value in them for me?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92884
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38145
I'm returning a 7 piece brake kit for this one, the one I got doesnt' have the pliers
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92883
Could you look at these bearing tools and see if you felt there was any useful value in them for me?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92884
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38145
I'm returning a 7 piece brake kit for this one, the one I got doesnt' have the pliers
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92883
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Williamson, NY
The bearing remover tool is necessary to remove the outer wheel bearing race after you pull the axles. I used a slide hammer tool to remove my races. The Bushing/bearing remover/installer set you have a link to is good to have, but you will not use it for the axle job because it is too small. The one to get for this job would be:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92387
I have never used the brake spring plyers before, so I have no comment as to how good they are, as the saying goes "whoever dies with the most tools wins" :-)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92387
I have never used the brake spring plyers before, so I have no comment as to how good they are, as the saying goes "whoever dies with the most tools wins" :-)
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From: Augusta.GA
Thanks, all the tools you've provided links to I've looked at but didn't know whether I could use them. Just seeing the picture shows more detail and reveals more about their usefulness. I think I'll use my 15% off coupon though, the set's not cheap.
Yup, I've been adding tools right and left and have no idea whether I'll use them again. It seems I've used around the shop objects like large sockets to replace bearings and set the seal. In fact, now that I'm writing, it seems I did that with the transmission... believe I used a pvc fitting and block to tap it in.
Yup, I've been adding tools right and left and have no idea whether I'll use them again. It seems I've used around the shop objects like large sockets to replace bearings and set the seal. In fact, now that I'm writing, it seems I did that with the transmission... believe I used a pvc fitting and block to tap it in.
Last edited by crawlfish; Dec 9, 2006 at 10:23 PM. Reason: need
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
Please read in the 67-72 forum how I hollowed out the drum so I would no longer have to press the drum on for my F-100. Considering how easy it is to glaze the shoes on one hard stop while pulling something, it is worth the effort never to have to press a drum on again. imo.
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From: Augusta.GA
I'm heading to the forum. I just finsished separating the hub from the drum today, and one came apart nice and easy and the other took persuasion. Didn't know these were pressed on and the operative question is how would that ordinarily be done?
I looked up your gallery. Photographs, I must say, are good quality. What kinda camera you using? You cite logging as one of your interests, and from the pics it's a serious one. You a climber?
I looked up your gallery. Photographs, I must say, are good quality. What kinda camera you using? You cite logging as one of your interests, and from the pics it's a serious one. You a climber?
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