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analog clock to replace ammeter?

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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notyettoday's Avatar
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From: Nashville
analog clock to replace ammeter?

anyone ever done this? i think it'd be pretty cool.. since the guage is worthless and i dont have a clock in the truck. just figured id ask so i may know where to look for a clock
 
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Since the ammeter is wired thru the Printed Circuit ....how are you going to by-pass that copper circuitry ?

I suppose a wire snip at the connector would work?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:50 PM
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i figured i'd find a different way to mount it than by 2 sheet metal nuts, and run the wires through the holes in back.. i dont think the pcb wiring to the ammeter is in series with any other critical guage circuit, correct me if i'm wrong
 
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by notyettoday
i figured i'd find a different way to mount it than by 2 sheet metal nuts, and run the wires through the holes in back.. i dont think the pcb wiring to the ammeter is in series with any other critical guage circuit, correct me if i'm wrong
Cool question! :)

You tell us. :)

If you haven't got any wiring plans etc... say so, and I'll look into it... but my plans are for (early?) 75.

Kind like to change my ammeter to a volt meter. :)
I got a volt meter years ago, just never have got around to messing with it. :/

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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should be the same, i'll probably just wire to b+ with a fuse, to keep time. i'll keep y'all up to date
 
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:23 PM
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You could use the flex circuit wiring. Just connect the harness wires where needed.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 09:24 PM
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Both posts on the ammeter are connected to the Batt +. One is direct and the other is through the shunt. The voltage drop across the shunt isn't enough to affect the operation of a clock. If you tied the clock between one of those posts and ground, it should operate fine.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 01:49 AM
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Alvin in AZ
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From: Gadsden Purchase
Originally Posted by 76supercab2
Both posts on the ammeter are connected to the Batt +. One is direct and the other is through the shunt. The voltage drop across the shunt isn't enough to affect the operation of a clock. If you tied the clock between one of those posts and ground, it should operate fine.
That makes sense. :)

So where's the physical whereabouts of that shunt you suppose?

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 01:54 AM
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It is the wire in the harness. All wires have a resistance to current.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Alvin in AZ
That makes sense.

So where's the physical whereabouts of that shunt you suppose?

Alvin in AZ
No supposition to it. The shunt is located in the wiring harness between the alternator and the starter solenoid. This is a short harness that connects to the alternator, voltage regulator and starter solenoid. There is alos a 2 wire plug that connects to the ammeter. If you unwrap the harness you will see where that two wire plug is spliced into the harness. The wire between those two points is the shunt. I tried to increase the deflection of my ammeter by adding more wire to the shunt. It did work, but I don't recommed others try it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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This is the back of a 77 cluster.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...lusterBack.JPG

Here is the actual cluster as it was installed from Ford.

*Note the protective cover for the ammeter.


 

Last edited by Mil1ion; Dec 10, 2006 at 03:03 PM.
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