melting wire!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 673
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
melting wire!
Hello friends.
I have a 55 f-100 with a 302. 12v converted. I wired this thing, but am having a problem. My voltage regulator ground wire is going from one of my mounting screws on the regulator, to the ground on the alternator. Seems to work fine, but when it takes a few cranks to get her started, the wire gets REALLY hot, and when it cranks over more than 7 or 8 times, it melts, and wont crank over again until it(the wire) totally cools down. Without this wire connected, she wont start at all. I have been troubleshooting this problem, and am totally stuped. Any suggestions?
I have a 55 f-100 with a 302. 12v converted. I wired this thing, but am having a problem. My voltage regulator ground wire is going from one of my mounting screws on the regulator, to the ground on the alternator. Seems to work fine, but when it takes a few cranks to get her started, the wire gets REALLY hot, and when it cranks over more than 7 or 8 times, it melts, and wont crank over again until it(the wire) totally cools down. Without this wire connected, she wont start at all. I have been troubleshooting this problem, and am totally stuped. Any suggestions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
melting wire!
It sounds as if that little wire is acting like the main ground.
The alternator should be mounted to a clean bracket, then the bracket should be secured to a clean point on the engine and finally from the engine to a clean frame ground, this should be at least #4 copper.
The regulator should be mounted to clean sheetmetal which should in turn go to a clean frame ground. The same applies to the starter solenoid.
By clean I mean no rust, grease OR paint at the point of attachment.
I spent the better part of a weekend redoing the grounds and brackets in my 54 and havent got to the rear lights yet. But it sure starts and runs nice now.
And dont forget the starter, it needs clean contact to the block.
The alternator should be mounted to a clean bracket, then the bracket should be secured to a clean point on the engine and finally from the engine to a clean frame ground, this should be at least #4 copper.
The regulator should be mounted to clean sheetmetal which should in turn go to a clean frame ground. The same applies to the starter solenoid.
By clean I mean no rust, grease OR paint at the point of attachment.
I spent the better part of a weekend redoing the grounds and brackets in my 54 and havent got to the rear lights yet. But it sure starts and runs nice now.
And dont forget the starter, it needs clean contact to the block.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
melting wire!
I've had a few problems with various frame grounds over the years and, on simple electrical systems like we have on these trucks, I've always wondered if it wouldn't be better just to run a separate ground wire to guarantee you have a good return path. Probably not a good idea for the starter and generator/alternator; but for tail lights, etc. it just seems like it would be a lot easier to run an extra ground wire while fixing the problem. 'course, I've got mine down to the frame and have easy access to everything right now so it's easy for me to talk smart.
Has anybody done this and what are the drawbacks, if any (besides the obvious exta wire and time needed)?
Earl
Has anybody done this and what are the drawbacks, if any (besides the obvious exta wire and time needed)?
Earl
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
melting wire!
you don't say where your ground wire from the battery is fastened. If its fastened to the frame you should have another wire from the frame to the engine. You can never have enough ground wires from frame to body!!.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 2
From: Southern New Hampshire
melting wire!
I strongly agree about "not too many grounds"
Remember Ford never intended for this junk to still be running or us nuts trying to. Grounds were minimal, fasteners were the cheapest that worked, etc.
The engine and the frame are the points to concentrate on. The sheet metal is often held on with corroded hardware, and these pieces are sectional. There is often NO true low resistance contact between these sections and often NO contact to the frame/engine.
The frame should be looked at as one big ***** bus bar at least if it hasnt been totally rotted out or replaced by some Mickey Mouse clip job.
When in doubt run a ground lead from everywhere to the CLEAN frame. I like to use the flat mesh type that show up at computer/ham radio shows; nothing like an inch or so of wire to get the job done once and for all.
However the junkyards, dumps, etc often have other options. Try to stay away from solid or stranded house wire, it wont stand up to flexing very long. Look for 19 strand as a minimum....even strip battery cables off of junked riceboxes.
Remember Ford never intended for this junk to still be running or us nuts trying to. Grounds were minimal, fasteners were the cheapest that worked, etc.
The engine and the frame are the points to concentrate on. The sheet metal is often held on with corroded hardware, and these pieces are sectional. There is often NO true low resistance contact between these sections and often NO contact to the frame/engine.
The frame should be looked at as one big ***** bus bar at least if it hasnt been totally rotted out or replaced by some Mickey Mouse clip job.
When in doubt run a ground lead from everywhere to the CLEAN frame. I like to use the flat mesh type that show up at computer/ham radio shows; nothing like an inch or so of wire to get the job done once and for all.
However the junkyards, dumps, etc often have other options. Try to stay away from solid or stranded house wire, it wont stand up to flexing very long. Look for 19 strand as a minimum....even strip battery cables off of junked riceboxes.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 673
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
melting wire!
Great!
I found that my block was grounded to sheetmetal? I put in 3 new grounds, all to clean metal. Grounded the volt reg. to the frame, grounded the block to the frame, and made my battery ground nice and secure, she starts great! Properly installed ground wires are beautiful things, THANKS!
I found that my block was grounded to sheetmetal? I put in 3 new grounds, all to clean metal. Grounded the volt reg. to the frame, grounded the block to the frame, and made my battery ground nice and secure, she starts great! Properly installed ground wires are beautiful things, THANKS!
