Kwikk, it appears to me after checking a few different dwgs. for this brake that all that is required is to supply 12v+ to the gray w red stripe wire from the pcm to the EBPV, making sure to block current from going towards pcm with a diode. Is this correct? Please check over Swamp Donkeys schematic and confirm for me that it is correct. I have an automatic trans. and already have the TC lock switch to ground installed. I could then install another switch to control the EBPV, or use Swamps setup. I think I would only go with the brake apply method. Thanking you in advance, Frank...

 

anotehr pic from me, hope it works over here...

I don't like dragging my brake all the time so mines just on a switch, no brake pedal required.

 

R1 Value please. How many ohms resistance, and what voltage are you trying to get down to..

 

I used a 10 ohm risistor, have both my TC lock up an brake on one switch just one flip an everything activates
-Kurt

 

ok, give me an example of what engaging the EBPV can do for engine braking. I haul a 4,000lb camper and tow a 3,800lb boat. There are a couple pretty steep hills on the way to the lake. On the downhill I take off the OD and that usually keeps me at a reasonable speed. Maybe a couple taps on the brakes to slow down at the bottom of the hill where it takes a pretty good curve. If I engage the EBPV what will that do for me?

 

Kbeefy's diagram is a good one.
The only advantage that my design has is that you can switch off EBPV operation altogether. Mine has a tendancy to stick shut on cold mornings and I don't like running it very often. I think the reason for that is that my turbo up-pipes are leaking enough to bleed off pressure before the sensor says: "enough pressure". So the PCM commands the EBPV to close some more until it's jammed shut. Then it gets hot and expands against the wall of the turbo housing and sticks shut. I have to get out of the truck and tap against the lever on the bottom of the housing to dislodge it on occation. It's a lot easier to just leave it off.
When I am out with the trailer, I have a GVW of 24,000lb. It's enough weight so that on the down hill side you are being pushed down the hill faster and faster. VERY alarming if you are on a long mountain pass and all you have to control your speed is the brakes. The engine is useless for compression braking.
The EBPV brake conversion is one thing I don't leave home without. With it engaged on a 6% grade it will keep the speed under control with just the occational very light touch of the brake pedal.
It works best over 2500 rpm.

 

On Swanps swg. there is no 10 ohm resistor in the circuit. Is it a good idea to include one in line 3 just before the rectifier diode. Because you use one, I'm assuming that the actual signal to the EBPV from the PCM is somewhat less than 12 volts and the resistor then allows the signal to simulate the PCM signal? Also, would it be a good move to install a diode to the TC neg. line to possibly keep any back feeding to the trans. control..??? Thaks for your advice and comments.

 

Theres a definate difference between the pcm actuating the EBPV via pwm signal and the steady signal you get from a switch. Even with the resistor inline it's still alot more pronounced (louder, obviously stronger) than the pcm one. I'm not sure if a straight 14v would hurt the solonoid or not, but resistors are cheap.

Oh, whats that? You'd like MORE pics? ok ok, lemme see what I've got...



Cleaned up version of guzzles tc lockup switch. The way it's wired theres never any worry about backfeeding and no need for a diode. Having said that, I thing theres lots of people that just tap into the line w/o any diodes. It only provides a ground, same as the pcm does so I doubt if you can hurt anything. It will pop a SES light though.

Good Luck!

 

Using the exhaust brake is like shifting down 1/2 a gear. In higer gears it does not have much braking power below 2000 RPM. Above this level it is quite noticable. I have an 02 F350 service truck weighing 12,000 lbs and it holds my speed to 65 in high gear coming down the grade westbound into Albuquerque.
Without it I would be riding the brake all the way down.

I hope that answers your question rad1026

 

And one could imagine how hot those brakes would be at the bottom of the hill.
I smoked my front rotors on the last truck I had with one trip and my brake controller was cranked all the way up. I wasn't being careful enough in heavy traffic, not giving enough room one time. At the bottom of the hill my front wheels were smoking. After that I saw an accident waiting to happen and found my current F-550 and never looked back.
When you start weighing your vehicles by the ton, speed control is nothing to be trifled with.

 

Good answers gentlemen, thank you. I can see the benefits. I'll definately be looking at this mod in the summer when I start towing my boat again.