'87 302 performance build ??'s
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'87 302 performance build ??'s
I have an '87 F-150 4x4, 302, AOD. I pulled it out of the barn at my grandfather's farm. The truck started right up after sitting for many years ( Ford truck commercial, anyone?), but it leaks from everywhere.
I plan on pulling the motor to make it easier to replace all of the seals, and I figure why not add some power while I'm in there.
I live in a non emmissions area, the truck will be mostly used for hauling and 'wheeling (it's got 35's, 4.10's, and lockers already), but will have to go down the highway from time to time.
I'm looking for moderate power for hauling and towing, I'm not going racing in this thing. What can I do on a relatively low budget while I have the motor out?
Cam, up the CR, mild head work, computer upgrade/chip? It has headers and a single 3" exhaust, and a K&N drop in filter already. What kind of improvements can I realistically expect?
TIA for your help.
I plan on pulling the motor to make it easier to replace all of the seals, and I figure why not add some power while I'm in there.
I live in a non emmissions area, the truck will be mostly used for hauling and 'wheeling (it's got 35's, 4.10's, and lockers already), but will have to go down the highway from time to time.
I'm looking for moderate power for hauling and towing, I'm not going racing in this thing. What can I do on a relatively low budget while I have the motor out?
Cam, up the CR, mild head work, computer upgrade/chip? It has headers and a single 3" exhaust, and a K&N drop in filter already. What kind of improvements can I realistically expect?
TIA for your help.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
HO!!! You need a cam. For the speed density EFI your choices are limited, but this one is about all the stock heads and valve springs will handle anyway. Comp Cams 31-255-5, grind # is XE250H-14. Check out the "cam" thread on this same page for the specs. You could also port the heads if you're handy with a die grinder... http://www.diyporting.com/
http://www.armstrong.edu/ron/auto/e7.html
http://www.armstrong.edu/ron/auto/e7.html
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Thanks for your reply. The heads will be rebuilt with new springs, etc., so I don't want to leave anything on the table here.Specific parts recommendations, or tried and proven combos will be appreciated.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Here are a couple good articles on builds.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ngine_buildup/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...gine_build_up/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898/
I think the first one from CarCraft is my favorite, because it is simple, and leaves room for other performance mods later on.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ngine_buildup/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...gine_build_up/
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898/
I think the first one from CarCraft is my favorite, because it is simple, and leaves room for other performance mods later on.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: fargo, nd
for towing and hauling you should have a bigger engine... if you stick with the same block you could throw a 347 stroker kit into it... i think the kit is only about 700 dollars from survival motorsports- an fte sponsor- and comes with pistons, crank, connecting rods, bearings- the whole bit- thatll give you alot more power than you have now... but the computer would have to be reprogrammed
Last edited by darrin1999; Dec 7, 2006 at 04:13 AM.
Posting Guru
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From: fargo, nd
but he said hed be taking it out on the highway... and low gears and highway driving dont mix... makes rpms too high on the interstate and makes it suck gas like a 460... ok maybe not quite that bad but still pretty bad
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From: Tigard, Oregon
If it is an occaisional use vehicle, isn't only about a 20 min. job if you have a spare "pumpkin" to change the gearing?
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Hi labontecsi, sorry I didn't get to you sooner but Welcome to FTE! Please take a moment to check out the Guidelines as they contain important info that you'll need when posting on the site:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
See ya on the boards!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html
See ya on the boards!
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From: Tigard, Oregon
Originally Posted by darrin1999
whit- youre thinking the ford 9"... in 87 itd probably be a 8.8- not a quick change rear
Ladd
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Thanks guys. Darrin1999, I was thinking about a stroker, but will I have to upgrade to MAF or can the SD system be recalibrated? This is definately the easiest solution.
Aftermarket heads are not going to fit my budget, and I want to stay with fuel injection, but thanks for the info.
Also can the comression ratio be bumped a little? I'm sure that this mid 80's emissions dog has a pathetic CR. Seems this would gain some power too.
Aftermarket heads are not going to fit my budget, and I want to stay with fuel injection, but thanks for the info.
Also can the comression ratio be bumped a little? I'm sure that this mid 80's emissions dog has a pathetic CR. Seems this would gain some power too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
My advice?
Ditch the 302. It's small 3" stroke does not make good torque.
I highly suggest stepping up to a 351W. The 3.5" stroke makes a big difference in torque. People often get hung up on the peak numbers and forget about the average tq or the shape of the torque curve.
Both the 302 and 351 have the same 4" bore but the 351 has the extra 1/2" of stroke. Stock to stock it makes about a 40 ft-lb difference in peaks, but more importantly, the 351 makes much more low end tq, has a much flatter tq curve, all of which means a better curve for towing, hauling, and 35" tall tires.
I run the 35/4.10 gears as well and find them perfect for me because of highway use.
But I'm also not running an automatic.
I find the 302 to be quite pathetic on low end tq, to me it belongs in a mustang and not in a truck.
I say use a 351 with the largest top end components you can afford, it will give you the best performance.
Ditch the 302. It's small 3" stroke does not make good torque.
I highly suggest stepping up to a 351W. The 3.5" stroke makes a big difference in torque. People often get hung up on the peak numbers and forget about the average tq or the shape of the torque curve.
Both the 302 and 351 have the same 4" bore but the 351 has the extra 1/2" of stroke. Stock to stock it makes about a 40 ft-lb difference in peaks, but more importantly, the 351 makes much more low end tq, has a much flatter tq curve, all of which means a better curve for towing, hauling, and 35" tall tires.
I run the 35/4.10 gears as well and find them perfect for me because of highway use.
But I'm also not running an automatic.
I find the 302 to be quite pathetic on low end tq, to me it belongs in a mustang and not in a truck.
I say use a 351 with the largest top end components you can afford, it will give you the best performance.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: fargo, nd
yes you can reprogram it for the stroker engine, youd just have to get a tweecer or similar tuner, and when you pick out a stroker kit you can customize the compression ratio... stroking an engine inherently increases the compression ratio because the piston moves further through the bore (stroke)
Last edited by darrin1999; Dec 9, 2006 at 09:58 PM.