another glow plug question
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Many have done it....... Birken has.
I decided to convert them to 7.3 style. I bought a controller and 8 plugs. Then I went to work.
I like everything to do to look factory, or if it is not possible then to at least be functionally as good. I did not like the idea of trying to make a 7.3 harness work. I have heard there is a lot of butchery involved in that. The first thing I did was remove the existing relay and install the new controller where it was behind the battery. I worked around it from there.
I hooked the glow plugs wires to the output, that was simple.
The next thing I did was to hook up the glow plug lamp to be the wait lamp. This is a little tricky to do because the 7.3 controller grounds that wire but the 6.9 just hooks the glow plugs up to it. I got a Bosch relay and socket, (socket was MotorMite 85170) and hooked hot up to one side of its coil (pin 85) and its switch (pin 30). Then the other side of the the coil (pin 86) went to the controller. The controller uses a GM Weather-Pack connector, Belden 784513 terminal and 784519 shell. I filled the shell with silicone, after putting it together, but before snapping the back down, to make it at least equal to factory. The other end, in the relay socket, uses a connector that is referred to as a Ford/Chrysler snap-on terminal female (Belden 784485). It is the blade connector we are all used to, with a little tang out the back to hold it in the socket. I had to bend in the tang on the one pre-wired to the socket to knock it out of there and install mine.
I also installed one of these connectors on the existing glow plug wire, and inserted it into the downstream switch terminal of the relay (pin 87) to power the light in the cab.
The last thing I had to do was power the controller from an ignition source. I found one very handy running right over the top of the voltage regulator. It is yellow/red (I think) paired with a much larger yellow wire going to a connector over the regulator and to the front of the engine. I spliced this behind (toward the heater motor) of the connector because this connector is for removing things from the front of the engine and this way things will not be complicated if you should need to do this in the future. If I had more gumption I would have replaced the pin in this connector and crimped both wires into it but it was getting cold.
Last thing I had to do was replace the glow plug connectors. I used some bullet connectors numbered NB156FB though I don't know whose number that is. The other bullets I bought were in a pack and were way to big to use on the glow plugs. These are blue connectors (for 14-16 ga) and the wires appear to be 14 ga to the plugs. Before installing conventional crimp connectors in this sort of location I fill them with silicone RTV or 3M Yellowsnot to keep out moisture. Also when I crimp them I use the part of the crimpers that says for non-insulated connectors even though they are insulated. I just look down inside them to make sure the crimper pin goes in 180° away from the seam of the connector. Some of these connectors had to be crimped slightly on the big end to fit tightly on the plugs.
Fired it up and it works great. I will miss the short wait time of those 6v plugs though. Later I will get a digital camera and maybe write an article on this if somebody wants to help me. I think this is the best solution for the 6.9 system though it is not real cheap it fits together pretty slick and looks almost factory.
Birken
I decided to convert them to 7.3 style. I bought a controller and 8 plugs. Then I went to work.
I like everything to do to look factory, or if it is not possible then to at least be functionally as good. I did not like the idea of trying to make a 7.3 harness work. I have heard there is a lot of butchery involved in that. The first thing I did was remove the existing relay and install the new controller where it was behind the battery. I worked around it from there.
I hooked the glow plugs wires to the output, that was simple.
The next thing I did was to hook up the glow plug lamp to be the wait lamp. This is a little tricky to do because the 7.3 controller grounds that wire but the 6.9 just hooks the glow plugs up to it. I got a Bosch relay and socket, (socket was MotorMite 85170) and hooked hot up to one side of its coil (pin 85) and its switch (pin 30). Then the other side of the the coil (pin 86) went to the controller. The controller uses a GM Weather-Pack connector, Belden 784513 terminal and 784519 shell. I filled the shell with silicone, after putting it together, but before snapping the back down, to make it at least equal to factory. The other end, in the relay socket, uses a connector that is referred to as a Ford/Chrysler snap-on terminal female (Belden 784485). It is the blade connector we are all used to, with a little tang out the back to hold it in the socket. I had to bend in the tang on the one pre-wired to the socket to knock it out of there and install mine.
I also installed one of these connectors on the existing glow plug wire, and inserted it into the downstream switch terminal of the relay (pin 87) to power the light in the cab.
The last thing I had to do was power the controller from an ignition source. I found one very handy running right over the top of the voltage regulator. It is yellow/red (I think) paired with a much larger yellow wire going to a connector over the regulator and to the front of the engine. I spliced this behind (toward the heater motor) of the connector because this connector is for removing things from the front of the engine and this way things will not be complicated if you should need to do this in the future. If I had more gumption I would have replaced the pin in this connector and crimped both wires into it but it was getting cold.
Last thing I had to do was replace the glow plug connectors. I used some bullet connectors numbered NB156FB though I don't know whose number that is. The other bullets I bought were in a pack and were way to big to use on the glow plugs. These are blue connectors (for 14-16 ga) and the wires appear to be 14 ga to the plugs. Before installing conventional crimp connectors in this sort of location I fill them with silicone RTV or 3M Yellowsnot to keep out moisture. Also when I crimp them I use the part of the crimpers that says for non-insulated connectors even though they are insulated. I just look down inside them to make sure the crimper pin goes in 180° away from the seam of the connector. Some of these connectors had to be crimped slightly on the big end to fit tightly on the plugs.
Fired it up and it works great. I will miss the short wait time of those 6v plugs though. Later I will get a digital camera and maybe write an article on this if somebody wants to help me. I think this is the best solution for the 6.9 system though it is not real cheap it fits together pretty slick and looks almost factory.
Birken
