When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So its time to get my hands a bit dirty and change out the plugs on my truck. It's a 1990 F250 4x4 with a 460 under the hood. Front plugs look pretty easy but man it's a tight fit getting back to the rear ones. Anyone have some useful tips/tricks on getting to them before I commence removing the skin from my knuckles?
If they've been in there a while and there's no antisieze on them I'd recommend a PBlaster bath beforehand.... stinks while burning off the manifold later but sure makes life easier removing them.
These are probably on the order of 16 years old. Dad doesn't remember ever having changed them nor did his mechanic (whom I got to visit when I rescued the truck from the barn).
These are probably on the order of 16 years old. Dad doesn't remember ever having changed them nor did his mechanic (whom I got to visit when I rescued the truck from the barn).
Buy two cans, and plan on letting it soak a day or two. I hope you're not the impatient type.
Might be worthwhile to think about letting the motor mounts loose and raising the engine just a bit to get better access. Make sure your plug socket is new and/or good quality, rounding one of the old plugs off should'nt be an option. And no 12 point deep wells as substitutes. Don't ask me how I know these things.
There's no replacement for u-joints and extensions when it comes to removing plugs (or any other engine work for that matter). Dittos on the PB Blaster pre-soak.
Ditto on the u-joints and extensions......I also use a pnumatic ratchet. The viberation helps loosen the plugs and if you don't have much room to move your socket wrence the pnumatic ratchet aleviates that issue......mine doesn't have much torque so it can't do any damage if the plug won't come loose......
Just went through the plug thing w/ an 87' F350 460. Soaked and soaked but didn't do any good at all. Finally had to use enough torch gas to float a blimp to get them out. Four came out in one piece and four broke and had to use extractors.
sounds like I'm in for some fun. Also have to put the original clutch fan back on her and change out some hoses while I'm under the hood. Dry rot is not my friend.
Try tightening the plugs a little first. Turning them that direction should break the threads loose. Then just untighten them and take em out. That sould work on plugs or most bolts or screws for that matter.
why a clutch fan??? Use an aftermarket fan with no clutch. The cooler the engine the better. Buy one that is flexable. I have a 87 with a 351w in it me and my dad built from scratch. It will run needless to say. He stomped on it one day and around 10,000 rpms the crapy clutch fan tore a part and left us stranded with a busted radiator and water pump.
The clutch fan is mainly to get her to warm up a bit. When she was a towing rig, my dad had put a straight fan on her as she'd get hot pulling around the gooseneck. When I pulled her out of the barn this year, the radiator promply sprung a seam (dang plastic aluminum pice of junk). With the old rad and the straight fan, she'd hold pretty much straight up on the temp guage. With the new rad and the straight fan...on a hot day in traffic, she's doing good to get up to the N in Normal. With the weather we're having now, I'm barely able to get her into the 'I might be warm' state. (moral of the story, radiators need flushed out every so often or they clog and you have heat issues)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.