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elec fuel pump orientation

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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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elec fuel pump orientation

I installed my pump with the pump part up and was looking for a good deal on a spare on ebay and noticed that most of them were shown with the pump part down. Does anyone know if it makes a difference how they're mounted?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 01:01 PM
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I do not remember seeing a specific orientation required on any electric pump I have installed.

Just because I have said that I will venture a guess that there are some that do have to be mounted a specific way though.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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I don't know as it makes a difference, I have the motor down, and the fittings and pump on top, works fine for me.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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i have a "facet" pump and i had it apart. i would say that is does make a difference. first off, the facet pump has a couple of "*****" on the inside which act as check valves. when the pump is off, 1 of these ***** falls into the down position to keep the fuel from draining back.

also the facet pump is not a motor as you would normally think. it is more like a solenoid and plunger. the plunger works similiar to a piston and seems to have an input stroke where it takes in fuel, then an output stroke where it outputs the fuel.

i know that with "dc" power a solenoid does not pulse and i did not study it that long. i was mainly just cleaning the pump instead of trying to understand how it worked.

i mounted it in what would be an upright position based on the label that was on it.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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I have a Holley, which should be a true pump, not the pulse type, I guess you would say facet... it has a true motor on it.I have used the facet type, and have always installed them horizontal, basically because of the way the fuel line is run...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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The ***** on the check valves are held tight by springs I'm sure. as long as the arrow points in the correct direction you should be ok.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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I know that an F-350 isn't an airplane, but if I had the choice, I would follow aircraft practice and mount electrical wiring and components above fluid lines and components. That woould mean motors above pumps if possible. The basic idea is to avoid flammable (or any other) fluids dripping on the electricity. The practice is not universal even in aviation so if it meant running a lot of extra plumbing, I would mount the pump any way I could, rather than do without.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 04:34 AM
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Is the electric pumps better than the mechanical? I'm just curious, it seems alot of people are replacing their mech. for electrics & I would like to know the advantages.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 06:49 AM
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The big advantage is that you don't have to crank the motor to purge the air out of the filter and such, the fuel is there. Also, you never have to worry about the mechanical failing and leaking diesel into the crankcase.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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Is there an electrical pump you recommend? How much of a job is it to install?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:17 AM
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I recommend good flow, and reliability of course. You can get by on less, but I prefer to use name brands like Holley and Carter, because they are well known and usually reliable. The Holley Red ( Holley color codes by pressure and flow) I have is rated for 97 GPH at 5-7 psi, which is more than adequate for the IDI motors. You will get soaked in fuel doing it, as you have to put the pump as close to the tank as possible, so you are under the truck, with plenty of fuel higher than where you will put the pump. If you have dual tanks, it will be on the motor side of the tank selctor valve. Simply cut the line, plastic or steel, and then hook the pump up with hose. The plastic is tough, it won't collapse under the clamps. If you have thoughts of running biodiesel, you may want to find neoprene hoses to hook it up with rather than the standard rubber lines.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:41 AM
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fellro86, Thanks a million, you have been alot of help! I have dual tanks with plastic lines, so you are saying I can put the plastic lines on hose barbs like I would with rubber?
As far as bio, I haven't considered it yet but are the fuel lines the only problem? There's no prblem with o-rings & somebody told me that both fuel tanks would need to be changed,is that true??
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:28 AM
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You could slip the plastic line on the barbs, but it makes it tough to mount to the pump, or dismount the pump in the event you need to. I used regular rubber line as I wasn't really thinking about Bio, and also the fact I have more to deal with to make it ready. You don't have to change the tanks, but anything natural rubber needs to be upgraded to neoprene. Return lines, o-rings and supply lines are pretty much all there is to deal with.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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Late to the thread here. The mechanical pump failing and dumping diesel into the oil is exactly what killed my last engine. Thousands of dollars later the electric pump replacement is starting to look meritous. Where do you get a plate to block off the hole in the block and where do you tie into the electrical system?

mkt_spot 1988 F Superduty longchassis dually 7.3 IDI ZF-5
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:41 AM
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I was wondering the same thing mkt_spot. I'm also wondering, do you just tie the pump into the lines going to the engine or is there a specific place? I take it you remove the mechanical fuel pump, where is it located exactly? Does anyone have a diagram of where and how to mount the electric pump?
 
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