Loose axle pivot bracket...a problem?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kansas City area
Loose axle pivot bracket...a problem?
Last night I changed out half of my axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings on my 72 F100 2wd. When I pulled the passenger I-beam out of the Drivers side axle pivot point, I noticed that I had a bracket loose. There are two brackets that come together here. One is riveted to the frame and one is riveted to the crossmember. They both get held together by the axle pivot bolt. The one that is riveted to the crossmember has about 1/2" of play in it at the end when I move it. Is this a problem? Could it have been caused by bad bushings? Once Ireinstalled everything it was tight again. I couldn't move it with a prybar. I'm going to dig into the other side tonight and I'll see if the other one is loose too.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: East Central Florida
Imp'54,
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "axle pivot bracket" , but I think you are discussing an aft or rear radius arm mounting bracket where a radius arm threaded end fastens to & mounts on chassis side rail.
If so, and if it was mine, I'd tighten it because when braking hard or worse when panic stopping those arms prevent the actual I Beams from sweeping back in a catastrophic failure. If that happened the frame or chassis could over ride the wheel & axle.
If you can't tighten it, then diegrind the rivets and replace them with 5/16ths, A&N rated, or at least case hardened, Grade #8, or better bolts.
Tight will prevent any slam effect but looseness can allow slam to initiate, and slam results in impact and impact causes failure agreed?
Especially 3500lbs @ 50-60 mph.?
FBp
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "axle pivot bracket" , but I think you are discussing an aft or rear radius arm mounting bracket where a radius arm threaded end fastens to & mounts on chassis side rail.
If so, and if it was mine, I'd tighten it because when braking hard or worse when panic stopping those arms prevent the actual I Beams from sweeping back in a catastrophic failure. If that happened the frame or chassis could over ride the wheel & axle.
If you can't tighten it, then diegrind the rivets and replace them with 5/16ths, A&N rated, or at least case hardened, Grade #8, or better bolts.
Tight will prevent any slam effect but looseness can allow slam to initiate, and slam results in impact and impact causes failure agreed?
Especially 3500lbs @ 50-60 mph.?
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Nov 30, 2006 at 11:09 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
That loose support bracket will make your beast steer like a wondering drunk Warthog plus your toe-in will be all over the place. Remove the rivet and replace with grade 8 bolts at the minimum. I would make sure the holes are round and not elongated, maybe ream round and install a bushing with a bolt that fits tight to prevent it working or hammering loose again in the future.
You need this corrected before a front end alignment which you can also do yourself.
You need this corrected before a front end alignment which you can also do yourself.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Dec 2, 2006 at 11:17 PM.
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From: Kansas City area
It wandered like a drunk warthog before I replaced the bushings. Now it steers and tracks like butter. I still have some positive camber on the front end from the new springs not being completely broken in yet, but I'll give it a few weeks or months.
The bracket I am talking about isn't the main one that transfers most of the force to the frame. It looks like it is there more to help support the crossmember. When I put in the axle pivot bolt and tightened it, there was no movement possible because the only movement that occured before was in an arc that would cause the two brackets that hold the axle pivot to mis-align.
In the end, I'm sure it drives better than it has since I've been alive (I'm 29) and there are no noises coming from it. I do need to get it aligned, but I want to wait to let the springs settle a bit so some idiot doesn't go and bend the I-beams thinking he is fixing a problem that isn't really there.
The bracket I am talking about isn't the main one that transfers most of the force to the frame. It looks like it is there more to help support the crossmember. When I put in the axle pivot bolt and tightened it, there was no movement possible because the only movement that occured before was in an arc that would cause the two brackets that hold the axle pivot to mis-align.
In the end, I'm sure it drives better than it has since I've been alive (I'm 29) and there are no noises coming from it. I do need to get it aligned, but I want to wait to let the springs settle a bit so some idiot doesn't go and bend the I-beams thinking he is fixing a problem that isn't really there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
You can do a quick toe-in alignment with a helper, it's easy and accurate.
Place the PU on level ground, I like to use two single edge razor blades stuck into the center tread at the rear of both tires in the 3:00 position. I mean stuck just enough so the blades stick and not fall out not a deep cut.
Measure between blades, roll PU forward so the blades are 180 degrees or 9:00 position and remeasure. It done correctly you can get within 1/64" and the spec is 1/8" toe-in for F-100 to F-250 series. I run less than 1/16" (3/64" or .0468") on the 68 CS with 9.50 x 16.5 radials without any problems the last 900K plus miles on two PU's. Your PU will settle very little with new springs. Put a lot of weight in the PU up forward and drive it a week, the springs should stablize. I would check toe-in first before you start wearing your tires then have the beams bent by someone WHO KNOWS HOW TO CORRECTLY BEND THEM!
PU is used as word t r u c k ends up missing in reply making reply look like a Chinese restaurant menu.
Place the PU on level ground, I like to use two single edge razor blades stuck into the center tread at the rear of both tires in the 3:00 position. I mean stuck just enough so the blades stick and not fall out not a deep cut.
Measure between blades, roll PU forward so the blades are 180 degrees or 9:00 position and remeasure. It done correctly you can get within 1/64" and the spec is 1/8" toe-in for F-100 to F-250 series. I run less than 1/16" (3/64" or .0468") on the 68 CS with 9.50 x 16.5 radials without any problems the last 900K plus miles on two PU's. Your PU will settle very little with new springs. Put a lot of weight in the PU up forward and drive it a week, the springs should stablize. I would check toe-in first before you start wearing your tires then have the beams bent by someone WHO KNOWS HOW TO CORRECTLY BEND THEM!
PU is used as word t r u c k ends up missing in reply making reply look like a Chinese restaurant menu.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Dec 4, 2006 at 08:39 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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beemer Nut, i have a 72 f-250 4x4. i understand your instructions for the adjustments with the tie rod using razor blades (great idea by the way) i will deffinatly give it a try. but i was wondering is there any other alignment adjustment i can do my self on my truck being an f-250 4x4?
thanks for any enfo...Russ
thanks for any enfo...Russ
Posting Guru
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From: St. Libory
It done correctly you can get within 1/64" and the spec is 1/8" toe-in for F-100 to F-250 series. I run less than 1/16" (3/64" or .0468")
-Jake
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
I have a 3/8" SS tube with a machined point pressed in on one end, the other end has a deep throat pin vice with a length of 3/32" welding rod.
With a (good mechanical) helper you can get nats azz.
We (same helper) apply this same technique but with a larger 1/2" SS tube on his big rig tractor. I like a good challenge besides not having a GOOBER destroy my machinery.
With a (good mechanical) helper you can get nats azz.
We (same helper) apply this same technique but with a larger 1/2" SS tube on his big rig tractor. I like a good challenge besides not having a GOOBER destroy my machinery.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Dec 6, 2006 at 10:53 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
72 HB; only other adjustment is castor on a 4x4 but wedges would correct that if you altered your ride height or springs. Then you get into U-joint angles, another bucket of mud.
Front and rear axles perpendicular to the frame so you don't have a dog crabbing down the road (thrust line alignment).
Front and rear axles perpendicular to the frame so you don't have a dog crabbing down the road (thrust line alignment).
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Near Yosemite CA
Just a side note, out of the numerous twin-I-beams trucks I have had, NONE ever needed the I-Beams bent, EVER, and my poor 66 I had for 6 yrs in the Marines got really beat hard, jumping tanktraps, numerous tank trail jaunts when I should not have been driving. Never did any of them need bent. Yes you need to bolt that bracket up, I replaced my frontend bushings a few yrs ago, they were all tight, but I do know the bracket you mean, and I agree w/Beemer, put grade 8 bolts in.
And no bendin!
And no bendin!
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