Can't Pull Codes on a 95 Explorer???
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Can't Pull Codes on a 95 Explorer???
My neighbor's 95 Explorer is quitting after about 3-4 minutes of idling. If he steps on the gas, it simply quits.
Definitely feels like it is starving for gas.
Problem # 1 - He has a code reader for it, but it does not pull anything at all. It looks dead, comes on and shows nothing at all, but does work on other cars.
I tried the analog meter trick, jumping the wires on the diagnostic connector and all we got was the battery voltage, no sweeps.
Problem # 2 - We went through the IAC drill and it appears to be good.
We were able to spray gas into the throttle body and it would run as long as we did that.
They replaced the fuel pump, and the pressure regulator is holding at 15lbs.
We are all a bit baffled as to why we can't pull any codes, let aone determine wha is causing the engine to quit.
Any clues?
I tried running a search, but I suspect I am so new, it won't allow me to run them yet....
Thanks
Steve
Definitely feels like it is starving for gas.
Problem # 1 - He has a code reader for it, but it does not pull anything at all. It looks dead, comes on and shows nothing at all, but does work on other cars.
I tried the analog meter trick, jumping the wires on the diagnostic connector and all we got was the battery voltage, no sweeps.
Problem # 2 - We went through the IAC drill and it appears to be good.
We were able to spray gas into the throttle body and it would run as long as we did that.
They replaced the fuel pump, and the pressure regulator is holding at 15lbs.
We are all a bit baffled as to why we can't pull any codes, let aone determine wha is causing the engine to quit.
Any clues?
I tried running a search, but I suspect I am so new, it won't allow me to run them yet....
Thanks
Steve
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From: UT
Problem #1: Sounds like you're not making a good connection between STI and SIG RET. Or maybe the computer isn't getting power.
Problem #2: Fuel pressure is only 15 psi? It should come up to around 40 psi. I also think you need at least 25 psi to get the engine to run.
Problem #2: Fuel pressure is only 15 psi? It should come up to around 40 psi. I also think you need at least 25 psi to get the engine to run.
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From: Baltimore
The 95s have 2 OBD ports. It has a non-functional OBDII port under the dash, and a functional OBDI/EECIV port under the hood. Use the port under the hood. Ford did this because the 95 was a transition year in that they were moving from OBDI to OBDII which started in 96.
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He may be confusing fuel pressure with vacuum... if the regulator hold 15 inches of vacuum.. then it's not leaking.. but not a valid fuel delivery test.
Personally I would clean the Mass Air flow sensor, sometimes debris can get stuck to it and cause these same exact symptoms.
Personally I would clean the Mass Air flow sensor, sometimes debris can get stuck to it and cause these same exact symptoms.
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Yes, it was vacum, just to make sure it was holding.
We are using the EEC connector under the hood. Today we jumped the connector using the Check Engine light to see if it would flash any codes. All it did was go out when we turned the key on. Took the jumper out and it came back on.
We will take a look at the MAF and see if there is anything going on there.
Thanks..... what a good time
We are using the EEC connector under the hood. Today we jumped the connector using the Check Engine light to see if it would flash any codes. All it did was go out when we turned the key on. Took the jumper out and it came back on.
We will take a look at the MAF and see if there is anything going on there.
Thanks..... what a good time
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We tried another code reader we know works and it won't do anything. I am not wondering if the computer has gone out on it.
He told me today that he was driving along, and revs went way up, then it quit. When he restarted it the OD light was on and the Check Engine light was on. He was able to drive it normallyl for a few minutes, then it quit again. At that point it would then idle for a few minutes and quit.
He told me today that he was driving along, and revs went way up, then it quit. When he restarted it the OD light was on and the Check Engine light was on. He was able to drive it normallyl for a few minutes, then it quit again. At that point it would then idle for a few minutes and quit.
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Check the ground connector on the ODBII plug. When I tried to run the codes on my little brother's Taurus all we got was a blank screen. After we fixed the ground problem we were able to pull the codes.
Another thing that I'd check is the fuel filter. Just a guess though.
--Jonathan
Another thing that I'd check is the fuel filter. Just a guess though.
--Jonathan
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Looking at the OBD-2 connector we can see the 4 wires, and assume the black/white is ground. but it runs into a the giant bundle of wires going through the body, but no clue where it goes from there?
Can you give me a hint?
Thanks
Steve
Can you give me a hint?
Thanks
Steve
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Ok I found this test when you do not get any codes
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44
We do not get any voltage at pins 26 and 46, which I think is telling us we have a fault in the sensor loop. We tested the TPS and found the voltage very low at full throttle, 4.01 volts. We replaced it and while voltage was slightly higher, it did not solve the problem.
We found the ground wire and it tests good.....
We found another 95, and the EEC-IV part numbers match, we are going to swap just for yuks to see if anything changes.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44
We do not get any voltage at pins 26 and 46, which I think is telling us we have a fault in the sensor loop. We tested the TPS and found the voltage very low at full throttle, 4.01 volts. We replaced it and while voltage was slightly higher, it did not solve the problem.
We found the ground wire and it tests good.....
We found another 95, and the EEC-IV part numbers match, we are going to swap just for yuks to see if anything changes.
Last edited by Grzldvt; Dec 4, 2006 at 01:17 AM.
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From: UT
Originally Posted by Grzldvt
Looking at the OBD-2 connector we can see the 4 wires, and assume the black/white is ground. but it runs into a the giant bundle of wires going through the body, but no clue where it goes from there?
Can you give me a hint?
Thanks
Steve
Can you give me a hint?
Thanks
Steve
You got no voltage between pins 46 and 26, and yet you report a voltage of 4 V from the TPS. According to the wiring diagram for my '92, the voltage between pins 46 and 26 amounts to testing the voltage drop across the TPS. I don't see how you can get 0 V across the TPS, and get 4 V from one leg of the TPS. Something doesn't seem to add upu. Exactly what are you measuring when you measure these voltages? I would guess that, if you can get 4 V from one leg of the TPS circuit, then Vref (pin 46) should be functioning correctly.
Have you verified the wiring between the self-test connector and the computer?
Good luck.
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Originally Posted by mrshorty
On most '95's, the OBD-2 port under the steering wheel is a dummy unit. Most '95's are EEC-IV/OBD-1, and the self-test connectors for these are under the hood (driver's side fender, I think, on a '95). You said earlier that you were using the under the hood connector. I would expect any wires going to the OBD-2 port wouldn't have any effect on the EEC-IV self-test wiriing.
You got no voltage between pins 46 and 26, and yet you report a voltage of 4 V from the TPS. According to the wiring diagram for my '92, the voltage between pins 46 and 26 amounts to testing the voltage drop across the TPS. I don't see how you can get 0 V across the TPS, and get 4 V from one leg of the TPS. Something doesn't seem to add upu. Exactly what are you measuring when you measure these voltages? I would guess that, if you can get 4 V from one leg of the TPS circuit, then Vref (pin 46) should be functioning correctly.
Have you verified the wiring between the self-test connector and the computer?
Good luck.
You got no voltage between pins 46 and 26, and yet you report a voltage of 4 V from the TPS. According to the wiring diagram for my '92, the voltage between pins 46 and 26 amounts to testing the voltage drop across the TPS. I don't see how you can get 0 V across the TPS, and get 4 V from one leg of the TPS. Something doesn't seem to add upu. Exactly what are you measuring when you measure these voltages? I would guess that, if you can get 4 V from one leg of the TPS circuit, then Vref (pin 46) should be functioning correctly.
Have you verified the wiring between the self-test connector and the computer?
Good luck.
Trust me, not getting any reading across 26 and 46 has us baffled too. We poked and prodded so many times in that area it drove us nuts. Based on the article we are looking for 4-6 vols, but register nothing.
We tracked all the wiring, before it gets mixed in with everything else. I guess the next step is to unbundle the wores to see if something happened inside.
Thanks
Steve
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Ok, We FOUND IT!!!!! After swapping another computer with the same identical part number, that car reacted exactly the same way. We took the good one, installed in the Explorer havng a problem and it ran like a charm.
What a struggle!!!!
So we are off to get another computer and move on in life.
Thanks everyone for helping us, and trying to point us in different areas. It definitly helped us eliminate various areas.
Steve
What a struggle!!!!
So we are off to get another computer and move on in life.
Thanks everyone for helping us, and trying to point us in different areas. It definitly helped us eliminate various areas.
Steve
