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vibration when accelerating from stop

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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #1  
the winemaker's Avatar
the winemaker
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Question vibration when accelerating from stop

I have a 2003 f350drw 4/4 kr will just a shade less than 80000kms on the speedo..I notice a vibration like something is touching against each other when I first pull away..can find nothing loose.truck works great other than this....installed new tires(michlins the other day) general still had mileage left on them..has anyonr experience the dsame noise? any ideas what i should look at?
the winemaker
truro nova scotia canada
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 05:59 PM
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03f350crew
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From: Los Lunas, NM
If i is a standard It sounds like clutch shudder. My auto did it when I first got it but eventually went away. I attributed it to break in period
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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BowTieHatr
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From: Florence,SC
drop your driveshaft and check your ujoints. also look very carefully along the driveshaft for weights missing. also check your center support for loose or rubber damage.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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the winemaker
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Thumbs up vibration

thanks to all repiles..will check driveshaft.may have to get local dealer involved.again thanks for help.the winemaker
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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ceopi
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TSB
05-17-6 DRIVE-AWAY SHUDDER OR VIBRATION

Publication Date: August 16, 2005

FORD: 1999-2006 F-Super Duty



This article supersedes TSB 04-22-7 to update the vehicle model years.

ISSUE:
Some 1999-2006 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit excessive drive-away shudder or vibration, under moderate to heavy acceleration from a stop. This may be due to driveline angle.

ACTION:
Shim the center carrier bracket downward to correct the condition. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

When shimming the center carrier bracket, a maximum of three (3) 1/4" shims may be used (EOTZ-4A209-A). When refastening the carrier bracket use bolt (56564-S2). A 7/16 x 14 grade 5 bolt may be substituted providing that it extends at least three (3) threads past the nut. Use Motorcraft Threadlock 262 (TA-26), and torque bolts to 46 lb-ft (62 N-m).

NOTE: IF THE VEHICLE IS NORMALLY LOADED, ROAD TESTS WILL NEED TO BE PERFORMED WITH THE VEHICLE LOADED.



Before beginning the repair, road test the vehicle to gain a feel for the harshness of the shudder/vibration.
Install one (1) shim, (DO NOT use Threadlock on the bolts at this point), re-road test vehicle.
If condition is corrected, apply Threadlock and torque bolts as directed above.
If condition is not corrected, re-perform Step 2 (to a maximum of three (3) shims) and reevaluate vehicle.
NOTE: IF THE CONDITION IS STILL NOT CORRECTED AFTER INSTALLING A MAXIMUM OF THREE (3) SHIMS, REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL SECTION 205-00 FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS.




PART NUMBER PART NAME
EOTZ-4A209-A Shim
56564-S2 Bolt
TA-26 Threadlock 262 Motorcraft


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
051706A 1999-2006 F-Super Duty: Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim, And Road Test To Verify Repair (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) 1.2 Hrs.
051706B 1999-2006 F-Super Duty: Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim, And Road Test To Verify Repair Condition Still Exists, Install A Second Shim And Road Test (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) 1.7 Hrs.
051706C 1999-2006 F-Super Duty: Road Test To Verify Concern, Install One Shim, And Road Test To Verify Repair, Install A Second Shim And Road Test Condition Still Exists, Install A Third Shim And Road Test (Includes Time To Raise Vehicle And Install Threadlock) 2.2 Hrs.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
4A209 42
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 07:56 AM
  #6  
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kl67
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My 05 vib/shuttered quite a bit when I was pulling my 5 wheeler. It had a tongue weight of 2800 lbs and made the 250 squat pretty good. I installed air bags to level the truck and the vib went away. Signed that one off as driveline angle.

KL67
 
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Old Dec 3, 2006 | 10:12 AM
  #7  
Big's Avatar
Big
Tuned
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From: Fort Fun
I had this problem with my CC LB. I tried the shim thing to no avail. Next I had the carrier bearing replaced under warranty. That seemed to help a bit so I let it go a while. Then it came back with a vengance. That time, a local mechanic attributed it to a bad rear U-joint. That was about 10,000+ miles ago and it has been perfect ever since, even when pulling a heavy load.

So what does that mean? Was it the Carrier Bearing or the U-Joint? Maybe both. I don't think I had any shims installed at all. Your results may vary.

Big
 
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