Gauge Help
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Well not so well I tried to clean out the female end of the threads but didn't have a device that worked too well. The male end is clean. The gauge still doesn't register. The sensor I bought is for a thunderbird because that is the engine type but the gauge I have is a stock truck one I don't know if they are incompatable. I'll keep trying. THanks.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
You may indeed have a sender/gauge incompatability issue. IIRC Ford continued to use 6V gauges in the trucks for some time after converting to 12V for the rest of the electrical system in 56. They used a voltage reducer to supply the gauges. Your sender may not be sending the right voltage or resistance (don't know which measuring system is used for the temp gauge) so the meter (gauge) can't display the proper reading. Do you have an original sending unit for a 56? Hook it up to the gauge add a ground wire from the threaded portion to a clean metal part on the engine and stick the end of the sender into a pan of very hot water (near boiling, DON'T burn yourself!) with the ignition key in the run position. Does the gauge now read? If so you have a sender issue. If not you have a bad gauge or an electrical wiring problem. With your VOM set to read DC V in series with the wire to the sender and a ground point check to see if you have voltage. If so what voltage, and did the gauge move? Don't just ground out the wire, you may blow out the gauge. Post what you find and we'll go from there.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Thanks. With my work schedule I probably won't be able to get to this for a bit. I did have a stock temp sender for a 56 but it doesn't fit into the hole. There is a tool that is sold by Concours Parts that I think can be used to take the adaptor out of the engine which would leave a larger hole which would then be compatable with the original sender. I'm thinking of going down that path any suggestions.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,014
Likes: 9,969
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Let me get this straight, the engine block has a fitting in it to adapt it to fit the new sender. The original sender fits the block without the adapter? I think I'd try to remove the adapter and fit the original sender in its place. I'd test the sender first as AX suggested.
On my Caddy I had to do the opposite. I had to neck the block down to fit my sender (and yes, I re-learned about the teflon tape at the same time....must have killed off those brain cells at one time or another)
Bobby
On my Caddy I had to do the opposite. I had to neck the block down to fit my sender (and yes, I re-learned about the teflon tape at the same time....must have killed off those brain cells at one time or another)
Bobby
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Walnut Creek, CA
The block seems to have an adapter in it which allows the smaller diameter sensor to fit which is the "correct" sender for the 312 T-Bird engine. I believe that without that adapter the truck sender which has a larger diameter would fit. I have a bit ofa hard time believing the teflon tape interference because it seems to shred when you screw the sender in, can it still insulate it enough that it won't ground?
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,014
Likes: 9,969
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Getting the adapter out of the block might prove to be a real pain in the rear. Is it in a place where you can get a socket and breaker bar on it?
As for the teflon tape, I had always thought that way also. I figured I only gave it one wrap so it should be OK. But, you got to keep in mind that our little pal with the infamous law, Murphy, is always hanging around just looking for the opportunity to spoil your day. (I recently fought this on my oil pressure gauge, naturally, its the one thats hard to get to on my engine block).
Try the sender out first like AX suggested though, to make sure its a compatibility issue.
Good luck
Bobby
As for the teflon tape, I had always thought that way also. I figured I only gave it one wrap so it should be OK. But, you got to keep in mind that our little pal with the infamous law, Murphy, is always hanging around just looking for the opportunity to spoil your day. (I recently fought this on my oil pressure gauge, naturally, its the one thats hard to get to on my engine block).
Try the sender out first like AX suggested though, to make sure its a compatibility issue.
Good luck
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
another problem I have seen with temp gauges not reading properly is due to an air pocket under the sender, especially where an adapter has been used. My brother has that problem with the engine in his dragster, whenever he changes the cooling water (very often to prevent overheating) he has to bleed the sender to get out the air so it reads correctly.
Low coolant level can produce the same issue if it's not reaching the sender.
Gracie's oil pressure gauge would not read properly until I removed the teflon tape the PO used when installing the sender. Most senders are either on-off (like to trip an idiot light) or variable resistance. When you add the tape even if some current is flowing, it throws the resistance value off from what the gauge expects to see. That was the problem with Gracie, the OP gauge would read, but showed very little OP.
Low coolant level can produce the same issue if it's not reaching the sender.
Gracie's oil pressure gauge would not read properly until I removed the teflon tape the PO used when installing the sender. Most senders are either on-off (like to trip an idiot light) or variable resistance. When you add the tape even if some current is flowing, it throws the resistance value off from what the gauge expects to see. That was the problem with Gracie, the OP gauge would read, but showed very little OP.
Last edited by AXracer; Dec 5, 2006 at 04:51 PM.
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