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valve studs backing out

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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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valve studs backing out

I just aquired a '79 F150 4X4 300I-6. The valves were ticking but when i went to adjust the valves i noticed a few of the studs were backing out. I drove the studs back in with a BFH and ajusted the valves but the tick is back. Should I go ahead and replace them with screw in studs or is there an aftermarket head worth buying. this is going to be a tow vehicle. I am a Ford virgin and thanks in advance to those who post anything helpfull.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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Hello- Welcome to FTE! I have moved your post to the specialized forum we have here for your question. Check out the list of tech forums we have on FTE. There is a wealth of information and expertise here to help you. Check the links at the bottom, and the menu bar at the top, of the page for more information and resources. Have fun!
 
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 11:06 PM
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Thanks Torque1st. figured this was the best place to post. Where did you move the post to? One more question if I may, my 300 is bone stock 1bbl. Where can I find good info to upgrade the motor. I would like to be close to 400fttq as this will be a tow vehicle. Thanks Eric.

Robert
 

Last edited by ur_sloww; Nov 28, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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Once a pressed in stud pulls out it is not going to stay until something changes. You are probably right, changing to screw in studs is the way to go.

(I was going to refer you to the stickies at the top of the forum but they appear to have been removed. What's up with that Moderators?)

In any case, these engines don't breath well in stock form. If you are looking for grunt power, you have the right engine to start with.

Once you change your studs to screw in, you can use chevy six rockers which will give you some additional lift due to the rocker ratio. Stock is 1.6 to 1, and he chevy rockers are 1.7 to 1.

The exhaust manifold can be swapped for headers or EFI manifolds from the later 300 motors. That is a split manifold and Walker makes a down pipe for them.

The intake manifold can be replaced with an Offy dual plane which will accept a four barrel carb. Most people go with a 390cfm.

That's the basics for these motors. Of course some head porting will help as will an aftermarket cam. If you change to the chevy rockers, talk it over with the cam supplier so they can factor that in to the cam choice.

The bottom end is pretty tough, having seven main bearings.

Post back with any specific questions.

 

Last edited by Bdox; Nov 29, 2006 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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I seen that the moderators are supposed to get a new server or something like that so certain things weren't available. I would like to see those stickies though. I figured screw in studs would be the way to go. I am assuming that the chevy rockers you mentioned are from a I6 as well, or are you referring to aftermarket rockers from a V8? Any ideas on a good aftermarket header? I am assuming they only come in a longtube header? Is Offy the only or best choice for these motors? I plan to port match everything and I was thinking about a cam in the 220's@.50 lift. not sure about the brand yet. You mentioned a 390 cfm carb. I was thinking that with the displacement of the motor I would be better off in the 600cfm range. Correct me if I am wrong. By the way, I am running 33's and thinking either 4:56 or 4:10's. Thanks for the help.

Robert
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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I fogot to mention that I have a 4 speed with granny.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 10:25 AM
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The chevy rockers are from the inline six.

Clifford also makes an intake for our sixes. You said torque was the goal that is why I suggested the dual plane Offy.

These motors, even ported, don't turn up a lot of rpm, so a 600 cfm is probably more than you need. Some people do run them but it's overkill. If you use one makes sure it is vacuum secondaries.

I'm sure some others will chime in with their experiences.

Look at Col. Flashman's gallery. He has gone the whole route with a 300.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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Thaks for the info Bdox
 
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