Coolant Leak
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Katy, Texas
Coolant Leak
Ok I think i posted about this 2 weeks ago, and we thought it wwas the water pump. Well after some thinking and some looking, it didnt seem to be leakin from the pump itself. It tends to only leak when i turn my heater on, and then let my truck sit over nite. Could it be the heater core??
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 831
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From: Katy, Texas
Ok found the problem, it is the water pump.. I was lookin the other day and i shook the fan and water just poored out...the fan aint supposed to move like it does now! would this be a bad water pump or bushing or something? Id rather not replace the whole pump but if I have to I will.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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Do your self a favour and replace all the hoses and belts while you have the waterpump off, if you already haven't done so...take a good look at your power steering pump hoses and your vacum pump hose to see if they need replacing? Hoses are cheap and good piece of mind...just a thought, lol.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
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From: SLC, UT
Don't forget
Change the thermostat and check the air bleed port on the thermostat housing. Mine was plugged and when I cleaned it the retainer fell apart. I made a gasket then punched a 1/8 hole for the air bleed port. Check your radiator for solder bloom. I just replace everything but the fan clutch and my be replacing that next week.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
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From: SLC, UT
solder bloom
http://www.radiatorinfo.com/solderbloom.html
Solder bloom is a type of internal corrosion that can form when neglected coolant, rust and some types of leak inhibitor additives react with the soldered joints in a copper/brass radiator. White to green crumbly deposits begin to grow, which can block tubes and restrict the flow of coolant. A radiator with this kind of problem must be recored or replaced. The cooling system should be cleaned and flushed to remove deposits and sediment.
Which explains my problem: The heater core was leaking so they added a leak inhibitor then let it sit around for a few years. It cost $200 to recored and resolder the radiator, I had to pick the radiator up from the first shop I took it to because they wanted $300 to fix it and I didn't think they knew what they were doing.
So now I have replaced:
Heater Core
All hoses
All hose clamps
Thermostat
All fan belts
Radiator cap
Water pump
I'm saving up to replace the fan clutch
Solder bloom is a type of internal corrosion that can form when neglected coolant, rust and some types of leak inhibitor additives react with the soldered joints in a copper/brass radiator. White to green crumbly deposits begin to grow, which can block tubes and restrict the flow of coolant. A radiator with this kind of problem must be recored or replaced. The cooling system should be cleaned and flushed to remove deposits and sediment.
Which explains my problem: The heater core was leaking so they added a leak inhibitor then let it sit around for a few years. It cost $200 to recored and resolder the radiator, I had to pick the radiator up from the first shop I took it to because they wanted $300 to fix it and I didn't think they knew what they were doing.
So now I have replaced:
Heater Core
All hoses
All hose clamps
Thermostat
All fan belts
Radiator cap
Water pump
I'm saving up to replace the fan clutch
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
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From: South Dakota
I haven't flushed the radiator on my diesel. Would it be a good idea to do so? I saw some stuff called Prestone Super Radiator Flush on the shelves at my local department store, would this stuff we alright to use?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
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From: SLC, UT
Try this: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=15
If I'd known about it I would have used it and still may.
I added a flush kit to the heater hose, I let the water run for 30 minutes. The only issue I have is with removing all the tap water. I have an adapter for a standard air connector with a regulator to keep the air pressure less then 12lbs. Use distilled water to mix or the 50/50 mix.
There is a difference between Flush and Cleaner.
If I'd known about it I would have used it and still may.
I added a flush kit to the heater hose, I let the water run for 30 minutes. The only issue I have is with removing all the tap water. I have an adapter for a standard air connector with a regulator to keep the air pressure less then 12lbs. Use distilled water to mix or the 50/50 mix.
There is a difference between Flush and Cleaner.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: SLC, UT
My heater core did not leak inside the cab, my core is located on the outside firewall and is the biggest one they used in 84.
The leak was easy to notice; turn the heater on and watch the windshield fog over with a sticky coating that smears when you try to wipe a peep hole to see the road!
I was quoted $250 to replace the core, it cost $22 for the core and took 30 minutes. I modified the bolts that go in the firewall, they are only 3/8 inch long now instead of the 1.25 inch.
The leak was easy to notice; turn the heater on and watch the windshield fog over with a sticky coating that smears when you try to wipe a peep hole to see the road!
I was quoted $250 to replace the core, it cost $22 for the core and took 30 minutes. I modified the bolts that go in the firewall, they are only 3/8 inch long now instead of the 1.25 inch.
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