Leaf Spring Removal 1990 F150
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Leaf Spring Removal 1990 F150
I dove into this one and would like to back track. What is the "preferred" method of getting the eye boltd out the rubber bushing of the leaf spring? I have already mangled the rear shackle by trying to beat the bolt out with a hammer and part of me wants the group to chime in and say "fire up the torch and burn rubber", but the fuel line along the frame rail has me concerned.
Thanks, Chet
Thanks, Chet
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Joined: Jan 2004
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Just did this job 3 weeks ago. Pain in the a**. The best method would be to remove the hanger from the frame. Should be 5 or 6 bolts, and are much easier than the main bolts. Replace the whole assembly, much much much easier.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Eco, are we talking about the same job here? (Leaf Springs) The bolts that hold the springs to the mounts that are on the frame. The bolts are stuck in a rubber bushings that are on both ends of the springs. How did you get them out so easily?
Chet
Chet
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Cut the bolts off with a reciprocating saw(sawzall). I replaced a spring set on my truck 2 summers ago and one of the bolts just refused to play nice. The saw got the spring pack out from under the truck where you can get serious about swinging a hammer.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 446
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From: Grayling, MI
The easiest way I have found is with the flame ax. If you torch the heads off be careful not to damage the hangers or shackle. It is a royal pain. I am in Michigan, the heart of the rust belt I think. All of my trucks have need a torch to work on the suspension. You could try drilling the heads off of the bolts with a drill that is just larger than the bolt, not sure if there is enough clearance to the bedside. I have usually just used the torch very carefully. Once you get the spring out yo can burn the rubber and the sleeves out eith the torch. It is stinky and messy, but it is the easiest way. Then replace with poly bushings. They go in easy and hold up very well. Just make sure you grease them when you put them in to reduce any chance of squeeks. You should be able to work out some sort of heat shield between the heat and the fuel lines if you think it will be a problem. It can be difficult, but it can be done. Good luck.
Steve
Steve
Last edited by velcro7279; Nov 28, 2006 at 07:51 AM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Denton, TX
I don't burn the rubber out. I heat the metal around it. You'll actually hear the rubber pop as it separates and melts, just before the smoke starts it will push right out. I suspect the same is true of getting the bolt out.
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From: The dark carnival
Originally Posted by oldcoupe42
Eco, are we talking about the same job here? (Leaf Springs) The bolts that hold the springs to the mounts that are on the frame. The bolts are stuck in a rubber bushings that are on both ends of the springs. How did you get them out so easily?
Chet
Chet
Maybe the job is different for the e-series???
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Joined: Jan 2004
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The rear bolt melts to the hard rubber inside the leaf spring. Only way to pound out is by heating spring until that rubber melts, then pund while hot. Still think it is way easier to spend the $50 and get new hangers. Replace the whole assembly. my .02 cents
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Tuned
Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Update, was tempted to try and melt the rubber leaf bushings tho get the front bolt out, but the spring mount that is riveted to the frame was badly rusted so I chiseld off the rivets and ordered new mounts.
Chet
Chet
