I just replaced my glow plugs...they were beru, I installed motorcraft. 4 of the 8 were open. Now, my glow plug light doesn't cycle with the glow plugs. It comes on and stays on. I use the radio for an indicator the cycle has gone to off. After it starts, the glow plug indicator goes off. I noticed several of the insulators on the wires going to the glow plugs were broken or melted to next to nothing. I'm in the process of bypassing the controller [got the sw mounted with wires attached...scrambling for time to fish the wires through a hole in the firewall and attach them] I guess the next project will be to have the IP and injectors tested. I'm getting 14-16mpg...something has to be afield. I drive moderately with an e40d, recently rebuilt and a 355 rear end. I recently replaced the fuel return lines and bypassed the line going to the fuel filter...plugging the pig tail and installing a pipe plug in the filter housing. I ran out of hose and didn't get the hose going down the back of the engine...someone mentioned bypassing the return line to the IP. Is that cosher? I had a challenge getting #1 and #7 to stop leaking fuel after installing the new orings and return lines. I thought I'd be smart and rebuild the system off the engine, using the old lines for a template and got a couple of the sections of fuel line too short, causing 1 and 7 to leak from being tilted, I guess, by the lines being too short. If I replace injectors, since I intend to install an ATS turbo when funds permit, should I get larger injectors? I think mine are "D" s, stock. Anyone know what they should be for turbo? Both of my gas tanks run out early...the front one at about a quarter tank, the rear at about half tank. Do I have to drop the tanks to see what the problem is? Thanks for all the info and help. Larry '90 F250, 2x4, rebuilt and upgraded E40D, 7.3 na, sc, 159000 miles

 

Unless I'm reading it wrong.... that line would be the return line to your tanks......if you have no return line then your over pressuring the fuel/IP system and many things should leak........

 

It sounds as if maybe your GP controller has failed and is turning your GPs on too long and too often while the engine is running. Hence your melted wiring, GP light on at the wrong times, and your burned out GPs....

 

Thanks! I didn't remove the old return line going back to the tanks...Appreciate the heads up on the possible controller failure. I hate the idea that the glow plugs would cycle while the engine is running...so much heat there already. I had a Chevy 6.2 that ate glow plugs because of that. Do either of you know about the injecter or the return line to the IP issues I mentioned?

 

as far asthe running out of fuel early drp tanks and clean out old pick up tubes and replace with rubber hose with v cut in bot or get a couple of lne filters for a bottom line tank the ones they use in bobcat skid loaders this will alow you to get all of the fuel out of the tank just always remember to switch befor running out for these trucks don't like to run out of fuel bad on the pumps

 

Turbo injectors are G code.

 

thanks all...I just wired up a manual control for the glow plugs and I hear a relay when I turn the ignition on, independant of me pushing the manual glow plug button and the wait to send light is independant of my push button. I removed the white wire from the glow plug relay, cut off the ring terminal and taped the wire up...attached a wire from my n/o push button to the terminal the white wire came off of and attached the other n/o wire to the bolt that holds the glow plug controller to the intake manifold. Doesn't this seem right? Thanks. Oh '90 f250,,,etc.

 

You can get away without the filter header to #1 line, but the IP to #2 is required. Unless of course you run a separate line to a T at the back line somewhere.

If you hear a click maybe it is the fuel shutoff solenoid in the IP........??

 

It sounds right if the NO means normally open.

Power is supplied to the red/green wire on the opposite small terminal from the white wire when the key is turned to ON.

The white wire supplied the ground when the glow plugs were to turn ON.

Your wire from the white terminal goes to the momentary switch on one terminal, the wire on the other terminal goes to any good ground.

Turn the key to ON, you should not hear the relay click.
Push the momentary switch with the key ON and the relay should click.
Hold for 10 seconds and then start the engine.

 

Thanks all...yes no=normally open. The sound I hear must be the ip fuel cut off. When I press my gp sw, I hear no relay, but there's a huge sucking sound of power being siphoned off! [just kidding] I guess the glow plug controller runs the wts light, huh? in any case, thanks again.