heyhowdy kids, are the rear drums screwed/threaded onto the axle/?/?
or should i just keep beating on them with my trusty pseudorubber mallet. just askin

 

The F-1 drums are not pressed or threaded on. Normally they slide right off. Back the shoes off all the way thru the little access hole in backing plate. Sometimes they get stuck to the drums from rust and sitting a long time.If they're grooved from the rivets cutting into the drums, that can make it hard. I've had to beat the drums with a rather larger persuader (hammer). Sometimes you can get a pry bar between the backing plate and drum, working it around the diameter and prying slowly. Put some pressure on the drm with the bar and rap the drum. Sometimes you might even have to cut the head off the brake shoe retaining pins to get the shoes to move away from the drum.

 

ok thanx barry, the brum turns free, i drove it in(the truck)and am sealing the gas tank as we speak-sotospeak-but i didnt want to apply pressur in a vain attempt at disaster.i"ll proceed with confidence now, what had me wondering was the 3/4 in. slot across the axle end. thanx agin

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Apr-02 AT 01:31 AM (EST)]Spray a little PB Blaster on the studs and around the seam between the axle and the brake drum (approx 2" from the center of the axle.

I have successfully applied a little prying action between the drum and the backing plate while rapping with a metal hammer (I used metal so the sharp hit will be transmitted through the drum).

I hope this helps.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Apr-02 AT 00:16 AM (EST)]I have always had trouble with getting rear drums off and have actually chipped the drums prying on them. We started having inspections here in VA where they require rear brake inspections and I have observed how they get them off. They actually beat with a large hammer INWARD around the outside of the drum. The drum is pretty strong around the outside corner. They also use some penetrating fluid around the studs and center of the axle. You wouldn't think beating in would work but I tried it and it does. It seems when you hit on one side, the force is transferred to the other and it actually rocks the drum on the axle center. When I say outside I mean around the ouside face of the drum, not the outside part where the shoes are applied.

 

Franklin is right. We took thousands of them off the way he descibes at the shop. Put the lug nuts part way on so you don't smack the threads. You can really put the big hammer to them without damage if you hit them in the right place. Prying is usually far less effective and often breaks the drum or bends the backing plates. As mentioned, soak them with penetrant if they are still stubborn. Another trick for real stubborn stuff, if you don't own an acetylene torch, is to buy a small bottle of MAPP gas for use with a propane torch. If you have a good propane torch thats puts out a good flame, MAPP gas makes a real nice poor boy torch (under $10) for loosening fasteners and stuff. It will cherry large nuts if you give it a minute.

Dewayne

 

Now, I admit it's been 25 years since I sold my '50 F-1, but as I recall, the rear drums came from the factory with 3 screws (located in between the lug bolts) thru the drums into the axle flange. The original drums were countersunk and flathead slotted screws (maybe 3/16") were used. I think a lot of aftermarket drums may have had the 3 holes, but were not countersunk. I think I even have an axle or two and a few drums lying around yet, doing nothing in particular. Of course, unless the screw slots were filled with paint, grime and crud, these screws should be quite obvious. So....the drums could very well be "screwed" on, although not at the center as you may have thought. I have used a torch (even a "Bernz-O-Matic") to heat the center of the drum around the axle to expand it and ease removal.

 

The F-2 and F-3 used the 3 screws to hold the drums on. F-1 did not. I've parted quite a few F-1's and never saw one with the screws. Any F-2 or F-3 I parted did. Chances are they're stuck on fron rust and sitting. When I mentioned prying between the drum and backing plate, I didn't mean use brute force. You can put slight pressure on the drum and bang on it without any damaging effects. penetrating oil is a good idea also. Time has a way of getting a good hold on things and making the job tougher.

 

Just to add to Barry's comment, I know the '56 F-250 has the three drum retaining screws and the F-100 does not. I suspect the '53 through '56 series are the same in this respect.

I had one rear drum on my '56 F-250 I couldn't get off even after trying most of the suggestions in the previous posts. I used a big three-jaw puller with all the pressure I felt comfortable putting on the drum without damaging it. I rapped it, heated it, and cussed it but it was stuck fast. I finally resorted to driving the eight studs back through the drum and axle end plate about 1/4" to 1/2". With the puller holding some tension on the drum I could get some penetrating oil back through the stud holes, behind the drum, and down around the axle end plate on the inside. After letting it sit for a couple of days I was able to break the drum free by rapping on it as suggested by franklin2 and fatfenders.

If you do drive the studs back make sure you don't drive them in more than about 1/2" since there's important brake stuff behind there and you don't want to damage it. Also make sure you don't mess up the stud threads. I used a large drift punch with just a slight point on the end to keep it centered on each stud when I smacked it. If you do mess up a stud it's not too hard to find a replacement.

Good luck.

George

 

FOR STUCK DRUMS: I use air chisel w mushroom head on area between lugs with good success. Of course make sure shoes are backed off.
caddy 53 chuck

 

Well now Barry, "F-1s did not."?? I just went to look at my pile of stuff left of the F-1s I parted out years ago. The rear axle flanges on the remaining axles in my pile have 3 threaded 5/16" holes. All the F-1 drums I have ever seen have the 3 extra smaller holes that mate with the treaded holes in the axle flange. I also have a Dealer's service bulletin (Page 27 - Subject No. 4000 - Rear Axle) dated 11/18/48 which shows a picture of a slide puller being used to pull the rear axle shaft of an F-1. All three of the holes I speak of are clearly visible in the photo. I certainly agree it is only a remote chance that the problem addressed in the original query could be attributible to the suggestion I made. However, it was a valid comment and I don't feel deserved to be dismissed unequivocally. I wonder if any current owners of '48 to '52 F-1s have drums bolted to their axles (or at least have the 3 threaded holes in the axle flange)as mine did.

 

My 50 F1 has three hex head screws holding the drum on.
Dan

 

No retaining screws on my '51.
Give it a few smacks in the face between the studs after backing off the shoes.