please help rod bolt broke
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please help rod bolt broke
i just replaced all my rod bearings and was tourquing them to 45-50 according to my repair guide and i snapped one of the bolts or studs. the engine is a 1990 302 what can i do to fix this today thanks
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desperate
dont no if this bolt or stud whatever ity is can be backed out with hammer or stud remover dont no if i can match it up with something from hardware store or if i need dealership part any help will be greatly appreciated...... i just replaced both head gaskets, valve gaskets, tranny, and rod bearings and now this little P O S is going to ruin my whole time frame and potentially project.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2004
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Rod Bolts
If this is a good motor and you properly torqued the rod bolts, all 16 must be replaced if one broke.
If you did not properly torque the rod bolts and one broke you still must replace all 16 rod bolts.
Be sure to ALWAYS use an accurately calibrated torque wrench. This is especially true for 302 rod bolts but applies to all rod bolts.
High quality ARP rod bolts are cheap for the 302. Just tell them the year of the motor.
If you did not properly torque the rod bolts and one broke you still must replace all 16 rod bolts.
Be sure to ALWAYS use an accurately calibrated torque wrench. This is especially true for 302 rod bolts but applies to all rod bolts.
High quality ARP rod bolts are cheap for the 302. Just tell them the year of the motor.
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rod bolts
i just replaced the eight rod bearings and screwed the rod caps back in place hand tight. then messed up by not doing mutli steps to bring the nuts up to torque specks... ex i tightened one nut to 50 and then began on the 2nd. it broke the stud or whatever at 40o pnds but my tourque wrench did look lik it could have been used for fred flinstones car. so cant i just replace the one. also how should i remove the stud or bolt that is broken theres an inch exposed. i dont want to take the heads off i just did em but if thats the only way i will. sorry for long post any help is greatly appreciated and thanks for ur posts
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,171
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From: Denton, TX
I think what lorenr is saying is that if one is bad, suspect the whole batch and replace with new.
I think what EPNCSU2006 is saying is that the bolts are originally pressed into the rods, the cap placed on, the nut tightended and then the inside circumference is machined to a perfect and matching circle. Which is also why you cant swap rod caps or main crankshaft caps. Though I don't know this to be true, I do follow his thinking and I would ask your machine shop if you need to re-machine the rod, or all of the rods, after ou replace the bolt or bolts.
You need to find out why the one bolt broke. A rod bolt failure is catastrophic and having one fail on the assy bench is carma's way of telling you that there's something you need to explore.
Tightening one completely before the other probably forced the bolts to bend during both torqueing sequences which caused the failure. If that's the case, and I mean this with the best of intentions and the biggest heaping of brotherly love, you may need to review basic assembly proceedures before you get to the crank mains, head bolts, fly wheel/flex plate, etc.
Where all here fore help................
I think what EPNCSU2006 is saying is that the bolts are originally pressed into the rods, the cap placed on, the nut tightended and then the inside circumference is machined to a perfect and matching circle. Which is also why you cant swap rod caps or main crankshaft caps. Though I don't know this to be true, I do follow his thinking and I would ask your machine shop if you need to re-machine the rod, or all of the rods, after ou replace the bolt or bolts.
You need to find out why the one bolt broke. A rod bolt failure is catastrophic and having one fail on the assy bench is carma's way of telling you that there's something you need to explore.
Tightening one completely before the other probably forced the bolts to bend during both torqueing sequences which caused the failure. If that's the case, and I mean this with the best of intentions and the biggest heaping of brotherly love, you may need to review basic assembly proceedures before you get to the crank mains, head bolts, fly wheel/flex plate, etc.
Where all here fore help................
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...thanks i did tourque the heads and everything else i needed to accordingly and did so in a couple steps as posted in the repair manual. i just wasnt thinking and tightened this one wrong but also my tourque wrench earlier in the week was at zero where it is supposed to be. and today the needle was stuck at like 70 or something. i just treated that as zero. the thing has the gauge u can move so i moved the zero to the position the needle was now in. can i remove the bolt myself if so how thanks and can i get a stock rod bolt from the dealership?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
You should be able to get a new rod bolt from the dealer. From my machinist, any time you replace a rod bolt or bolts, the rods need to be reconditioned to make sure they are still round on the big end. Also, if you suspect any of the other rod bolts, now is the time to replace them. It will be a lot more expensive if one lets go while the engine is running because you will most likely be in search of a new block, and you'll have to do this all over again. I wouldn't skimp on this repair - fix it right the first time.
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thanks for your help i have to skimp on this one for a month or so. i dropped lik 800 in this truck including putting it on the road so i am basically broke and need this vehicle now so i can get steady work (plus my license reinstated long story) i have a kid due in a couple of days and im just trying to get some of my **** together for the winter. i need to drive to get stedy work. im going to keep the rpms low. i am going to drill and tap the broken stock bolt and put in anothr 5/16 24 bolt. any estimates on how long i can keep this engine going if im pampering the rpms? I cant afford to take the piston out cause id have to replace all the gaskets and time i put into this truck. i literally am just about broke
also do i have to tap the bolt? cause im not putting a stud in its place
thanks and sorry for long *** post again
also do i have to tap the bolt? cause im not putting a stud in its place
thanks and sorry for long *** post again
Last edited by JET EDWARDS; Nov 27, 2006 at 03:27 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
The bolt should just be a light press into the rod. I would get another one from the dealer. You should be able to get out what's left of the old one and get the new one back in with the rod still in the engine. Just torque that one to spec and loosen it 2-3 times before torquing it for the final time. It won't be the best solution, but it should be better than a generic 5/16" bolt in there. I would also go through the other rod cap bolts/nuts and loosen and retorque all of them making sure you use the correct torque value and that your torque wrench is reading correctly. And be sure to oil the threads when you torque the bolts/nuts to get an accurate torque reading.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
Just to make sure I'm on the same page as you, the rod has the stud in it and you thread on a nut on the outside of the cap, correct? If that's how it's setup, just use a punch to knock the bolt out of the rod.
If I'm on a different page than you and a bolt threads into the rod through the cap, try to get some vice grips on that bolt and unscrew it from the rod. If you can get it out easily, you can just put another bolt back in there without having to tap anything. I'd be nervous about the strength of the rod if you had to drill and tap it.
If I'm on a different page than you and a bolt threads into the rod through the cap, try to get some vice grips on that bolt and unscrew it from the rod. If you can get it out easily, you can just put another bolt back in there without having to tap anything. I'd be nervous about the strength of the rod if you had to drill and tap it.
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it has the flat rectangular head . yes there are threads on the bottom of the bolt coming from the top half of the rod cicrle.i see threads thne going up is a bare space on the bolt then strange threads that are more vertical than horizontal(like regular threads) i didnt hting i would be able to punch it out because of those strange threads at the top part