please help rod bolt broke
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 627
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If the Ford rod bolts are like a Chevy (sorry, that's the only engine building experience I have despite owning 3 Fords), they are knurled in the portion that would be inside the rod. I'm thinking that is the "strange thread" you are seeing. It's there to help hold the bolt tight inside the rod so it can't rattle around. Like Eric says, you should be able to use a punch to drive the rod bolt back through the rod. I would think it should have broken off clean but be careful there are no sharp edges on the broken bolt that could score the rod when you drive it through.
When you put the rod bolt back in, sometimes the knurl makes it twist as it goes in. Make sure the replacement bolt's rectangular head is seated flat on the machined surface and not hung up on the side of the rod. Like was said before, lightly oil and torque in increments going back and forth on the cap.
Good luck.
When you put the rod bolt back in, sometimes the knurl makes it twist as it goes in. Make sure the replacement bolt's rectangular head is seated flat on the machined surface and not hung up on the side of the rod. Like was said before, lightly oil and torque in increments going back and forth on the cap.
Good luck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,279
Likes: 0
From: savannah,ga
take a punch and tap the bolt out of the top of the rod
be Very careful to not scar anything
you MUST use the proper rod bolt
atleast replace both bolts on that rod
you will see the threads at the top of the bolt are knurled ridges
be Very careful to not scar anything
you MUST use the proper rod bolt
atleast replace both bolts on that rod
you will see the threads at the top of the bolt are knurled ridges
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 2
From: St. Pete, Fl.
Eric says the rod big-end must be reconditioned....and he is right. Pull that one out and have a machine shop re-do it. They will get the bolts for you. If this is a budget operation....and what job isn't...just re-do that one rod and try it again. 
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
one final question as i am on my way to the dealership to by acouple of those bolts right now. what end is the big end? the top half of the circle or the lower half that comes off when u undue the nuts?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 519
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From: Iowa
The big end is the circle made by the rod where it and the cap go around the crank. The little end is the small hole where the piston pin goes through. If the rod looks like this: O--o
The big end would be on the left. The rod bolts hold the big end together.
The big end would be on the left. The rod bolts hold the big end together.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 43
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new noise
i looked eveywhere for a stock bolt today and couldnt get one. since i didnt want to skimp by using a generic bolt i decided to use a mixture of white glue and wood glue and lee press on nail glue. i asked my grandpa if he knew where i could get one of the bolts today and he said back in his day they used a lot of nails that were that shape(talking about the bolt i showed him). he told me about the glue recipe from his past when he broke nails. so i put evrything back together again and started er up and it ran perfect and best of all no knock. so i had my friend test drive on the highway so we were going about 45 when i noticed what sounded like a machine gun was being fired at me. so we drove it back slowly and now i got to figure another one out. im thinking i might have left the exhaust manifold a little loose
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
ha just kidding i got bolts and new wrench and everything whet great until the friggin oil pump. thing took me lik 3 hrs iwas not happy. so tomorrow im putting the thing bake together again and starting it up. that little hex rod was ridiculous to line up; it doesnt help that i was trying to hold a drop light with one hand and holding the pump with the other trying to some how sneak a bolt in there while avoiding destruction of p o s gasket that came with the pump. thanks for helping me out and tomorrow night ill hopefully leave my last post saying it sounds real quiet
Last edited by JET EDWARDS; Nov 28, 2006 at 06:54 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 537
Likes: 1
From: Formerly Nawlins
I have been reading this for days .... It has been a number of years since I rebuilt an engine, especially something as rudimentary as an american made engine like we find in our older trucks. But in all the 70's 302's, 351C's, SB Chevy's and 2.3L Ford and Chevy engines I have rebuilt .... we NEVER put the heads on without buttoning up the bottom end first and making sure that the shortblock rotated 360 degrees without binding. And .... we also NEVER put the oil pump in a V8 or V6 without pulling the distributor, therefore NEVER having the problem of lining up the hex shaft as you had ... we of course had to retime it all. I haven't read the new Haynes Small Block Rebuilding Manual .... but I can't see even as usless as their 80-96 Ford Truck manual is could possibly be the same for a general engine rebuilding manual. I sure hope it all stays together for you .... I know you need it for work.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 2
From: St. Pete, Fl.
A mechanic with a sense of humor!!!! You will go far....actually.....maybe not that far....at least, not until you line-up the oil-pump-thingy. Good Luck Sir Jet....may the wood glue be with you. )
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
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ok its back together but i just have to do some tiny stuff to the exhaust. oil pressure excellent now even after it heats up. here is the new problem oil pressure great until i shift into reverse or any drive. drops instantly to 0. and there is still a slight knock. dont know what gives. ill be searchin for answers and i am going to flush the and fill radiator and swap some hoses this weekend or tomorrow.
