Truck doesnt start sometimes
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Truck doesnt start sometimes
Hey everyone sometimes my truck loses fire it has the electronic ingnition I put a new regulator in it it has a fairly new module last thing I can think of is the distributor. I dont know sometimes it will start good then it will just shut off. Or when I get to work and shut it off it wont start for 2 to 3 hours then it will start right up but if I shut it off the then try to start it right back up it will. I can figure out what the problem is some told me that it could be my key switch is there any way I can decicde if it is?
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Maybe read these to see if you get an insight into what the problem is ?.
They are all considered active threads right now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-has-died.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...rning-off.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...y-running.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...g-problem.html
They are all considered active threads right now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-has-died.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...rning-off.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...y-running.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...g-problem.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Blow the crap out of the dizzy with something that won't leave a residue. Clean the contacts on the pick up coil and the dizzy shaft with like 1200 grit wet type sand paper than blow it clean. I do this as part of a tuneup.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
The way he talked it sounded like an ign. problem. But the more I think about it I am leaning towards fuel delivery. AS it is a 78 I suppose it is carburated and thy can drain the carb and all lines back to the tank. Is there any fuel coming out the fuel pump vent. That could drain the carb and being a week pump could take a while to get it pumped up to the carb again. This can happen without getting fuel in the oil. Cracked pump diaphran can do this.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City
What ever the cause, you can be sure it is related to the vehicle/ component being hot. The fact that it must cool for several hours before starting kinda rules out the distributor. Rather, it must be an electronic component.
My first thought is the starter solenoid. They get very hot and act foolish with little use. You can test it while the vehicle won't start. Just test the current at the starter solenoid when the problem happens or when it kills itself from heat.
You will essentially have to back-trace the failure (electrical current) while the spark-loss condition is present.
My first thought is the starter solenoid. They get very hot and act foolish with little use. You can test it while the vehicle won't start. Just test the current at the starter solenoid when the problem happens or when it kills itself from heat.
You will essentially have to back-trace the failure (electrical current) while the spark-loss condition is present.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
I get fire to the coil 6.56 volts and the same coming out of the coil tried new cap and rotor, put a new regulator on the module is fairly new napa heavy duty but i dont think it is that because most I seen always go out ans wont work again. but the last thing I can think would be the pick up in the disturbutor. and I am sure I am getting gas as that I can smell it if I pump it alot. when it wont start I turn it over alot but when I go to stop and turn the key off the motor back runs a couple of turns. like it just jumped fire. we hooked a spark plug tester the ones that go between the plug and wire. well when I am turning it over there is no fire but when I turn it off it sparks really quick
Last edited by 78fordranger; Nov 26, 2006 at 11:32 AM.
Trending Topics
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
After rereading the first post in this thread. Witch I should have done sooner. I am leaning towards a bad ign coil. Start good when cold but not when hot. Module will do the same. But he said he replaced that. Don't mean it's good though. I average 1 out of 10 that are bad out of box at Nappa.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
So true So true. But they sell a good quality long block. Top of the list. But you pay dearly for it. That is why Autozone is a lot cheaper. And I don't mean just less expensive.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Originally Posted by Shamus
My first thought is the starter solenoid. They get very hot and act foolish with little use. You can test it while the vehicle won't start. Just test the current at the starter solenoid when the problem happens or when it kills itself from heat.
.
During the ruuning of the engine, the starter Gets hot..even worse with headers.
Most "Hot Start" problems are a timing issue.
The infamous,engine hardly cranks when hot.
The Ford ignition system Requires MINIMUM 8.2 volts to the + terminal of the coil to operate.
Over 12V is normally delivered to the coil with key in start position...once key returns to run position, voltage is cut to 8.5 through the pink rsistence wire on the igntion switch
If you only have 6.4v the engine won't fire.
The voltage at the - terminal of the coil is ground out (spark or signal to TACH)
1) Check your battery connections
2) Check for engine to firewall ground connection.
3) Check the small wires at connectors running to the distributor and the Ignition module..... sometimes they break and only leave a trrace amount of strands to carry power.
What condition is the battery in ?
It should be fully charged on a battery charger before doing any testing.
Last edited by Mil1ion; Nov 26, 2006 at 01:48 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
the battery is new and I get the same amount of volts to the coil when the engine is running thats what I dont get? everything seems to be working but doesnt start I am heading to my shop now to do some more trouble shooting and check everything over best that I can will be back when I am done to give any news I might find
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
I have a 1990 W250 that has a bad module. I haven't had a chance or the extra funds to replace it as I can get it started when It is acting up like yours. I simply made up a small jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends. I put one end on the pos side of coil the other on pos side of battery. starts every time. While it is running I jump out and pull the jumper off and put it back in the glove box. Also I had the truck stolen and thy popped the switch out. I was able to put the original switch back in less the chrome peace you twist to start instead of twisting on the key. I realize that 12 volts to the coil is not recommended but It has worked for me for four years without damage to any electronics. JMO hope it helps
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
I found that I got volts to the coil to the top of my cap but not coming out again so I swap a another new cap off a 460 at work along with the rotor and it is running fine right now so I will see if that fixes it. ever heard of a cap or rotor causing the sypmtoms that I am having?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 0
I've have heard of bad coil wires, or connection at coil tower or distributor cap where coil wire plugs in getting corroded.
Give the coil wire and the electrical wires for the ignition system (wires running from ignition module, to distributor, to coil) the shake, rattle and roll test.
Give the coil wire and the electrical wires for the ignition system (wires running from ignition module, to distributor, to coil) the shake, rattle and roll test.