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I have a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3L. The problem I am having is with the charging system. I installed the factory high idle controller, dont knowif it has anything to do with it or not, but a couple days later the truck cranked slowly then did not start. Then I replaced the batt. with 2- 1000 ca ones. Worked fine for about 1 week then same thing, so I replaced the alt.worked great for about 3 weeks. Was very cold (-25C) last night tried to start today, cranked slowly but nothing ,(was not plugged in). Got boost let run (1700rpm) 1.5 hrs. then drove 1 hr. shut down truck, tried to restart nothing not even a crank. Any help would be great thanks.
thanks for replying, I do not have dual alternators. I did check amperage drain from positve, (both batteries positive off) and got low mA,(0.2). The high idle is from my 97 f-250 which was put in at ford, digital display, rpm control, charge protect, and an oval ford button which starts the high idle.
Does the current drain have to be done from the negative terminal?
Thanks for the help.
Also if it matters I have an edge juice with attitude monitor and edge evolution, have had these since spring.
Last edited by radioactivenewf; Nov 25, 2006 at 11:13 PM.
Here is the gig as I would do it, and I must say I hate electrical problems.
New batteries = worked 1 week.
New Alt = worked 3 weeks.
Only other change to system is high idle, hmmm. Everthing fine up until then. I think you know you have to disconnect that device and make sure your batteries and alternator is OK. That means hauling them in and having tested. Also, the Alt can be easily tested with a MM on the batteries while running but it is better to test at the store. Run it without the high idle for a while and see.
If that gets no satisfaction, there is a wire or cable issue. Those suck and take some serious know how and running down.
Edit: hey didn't notice that edge monitor. Does it show your charging voltage when running and if so what is it?
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Nov 25, 2006 at 11:16 PM.
I will give this a try, i just didnt think it would cause the problem since it worked fine in my 97, but it is quite a few years differance, anything is possible.
thanks for the help.
I did notice the voltage was at 12v (truck running) with high idle on an 14v high idle off,,,?
Last edited by radioactivenewf; Nov 25, 2006 at 11:21 PM.
Well, perhaps it wasn't wired correctly. Diagnosing things from my computer is even tougher than doing it with the truck in front of me. I then try the process of elimination with common troubleshooting methods. Good luck.
On a positive note, the place where you bought the batts and Alt should test for free, at least most parts stores will. And they both should still be under warranty.
I did notice the voltage was at 12v (truck running) with high idle on an 14v high idle off,,,?
That is a no-go. I did not notice that before. That is just wrong. Your high idle looks to be a problem. The 14 volts is looking better and is likely trying to make up for a drain. 12volts is marginal even at idle.
Thanks for the help, I will disconnect high idle tommorow and give it a try. It is too bad because at -25c it does not warm up at low idle. Mabey try a manual high idle.
Well I disconnected the high idle. drove truck for 5 hrs., shut down restart 2 times ok. let sit 1 hr no start. Checked voltage on batt. with truck idling 10v, rev to 2500rpm 12v. I am thinking the alt. is crap. Cannot get another until tuesday, unless someone has other ideas. I removed the negative cables after shutting down for the night just in case there is a current drain.
The alternators on these trucks (mine anyway) are junk.
I went through two under warranty and then had it rebuilt locally to 200A.
No troubles since.
It's a vicious cycle when alt & batt destroy each other.
I took off the alternator but the part store could not bench test it. I will have a new one tommorow. I tested for resistance between positive and ground and found about 80 ohms. Idont know what this value should be, or if it is acceptable or not. Thanks for replys