Alright, well I have found out some really bad news I need a new driver's side wheel bearing in a bad kinda way. Here is the deal though, I think the shop here is wanting like 700+ to fix it and I think I should be able to buy the sealed hub bearing assembly for like $300 and install it myself in less than a day. I tried to search, but apparently I am not allowed to do so, so if anyone has a link or some helpful information pertaining to the instructions on how to do this or where to get the parts I need for less please help. Thanks to everyone in advance!

Edit: its a 2001 7.3L F250 4x4 crew cab
Larter,
Nick

 

its easy to do...the manual says non serviceable...just means you cant repack


go for it

 

Check this link out,very good info
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/nblube.html
It will show you how to remove the sealed hub assymbly.
Real easy to do ,aswell.

 

Strongly consider the dynatrac free spin front hub kit. If one front bearing has gone bad, the other will not be too far away. Spend the same money now to upgrade both front bearings, and hubs, and you will never have to worry about changing them out again. The upgrade kit comes with serviceable bearings, and Warn premium hubs. For the money, it is a real good way to go. So many benifits, for the same money you are about to spend on just fixing one side.

 

Ok, so it only took like 2 hours to do this and it would have gone even faster had my vice been bolted to the bench instead of sitting on the floor, but oh well. I did notice something and was wondering if anyone else had experience with the same. I noticed that the axle seemed to have quite a bit of play up and down and all around in relation to the axle tube with the wheel bearing hub removed. The end that was sticking out of the spindle had a ton of movement and the that actually goes in to the lockng hub really moved around without the Hub attatched. Once I got everything put back together it seemed to take out all the play and fix the problem, but I was wondering if the amount of play at the axle tube could have caused the bearing to wear? Or did the worn out bearing cause other parts to wear as well. I really don't feel like dropping another $315 to do this again anytime soon.

Thanks,
Nick

 

When my bearing went.I too tried,see what caused its failure.Aside from larger wheels and tires,I know speeded its demise.The brakes slide pins were frozen solid on that side.Do you guys think it could have caused the bearing going bad?
ncm0008;
the play in the axle shaft is normal

 

Just had the driver side of the dually replaced at 115K miles. Found a parts "store" out of the Twilight Zone that had a front hub assembly for $245. A friend told me about the parts place and when I got there I thought I was at a junk yard. Opened the door that had parts above it and was amazed at what I was looking into. A small room to the left were two older men were dealing with a couple customers. I waited my turn and carefully walked into the room (parts were lying all over the place on the floor). I told the guy what I needed (called him the day before) and he grabbed a piece of paper and wrote down three sets of part numbers, also got front callipers with brackets rebuilt for $59 each! This is were the story gets odd. The guy told me were to find the parts and sure enough I had to round them up myself! My friend thinks the guy could be a savant due to the fact that he knowns not only were every part is in his parts store but he also known most parts numbers and prices. They didn't have a computer and can get any part a regular parts store can get in a day. There overhead is so low you will not find parts cheaper.

Anyway, my F250 has 235K miles with both orginal hub assemblies and the Excursion at 165K miles also has the original hubs assemblies.