Factory Elevated Idle
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From: AZ
Factory Elevated Idle
I was going through the engine's owner's manual and I came across a Stationary Elevated Idle option. It said that the truck came equipped with one but it must be configured by the dealer.
I went down to the dealer and asked. The manager wasn't sure because it was an '07 and they differ from year to year. The previous years were installed with a module but this one was only to be programmed, according the manual.
To make a long story short, he did not have the hardware to program and was going to notify me when Ford delivered such device to get it going.
It is suppose to work off the AUX 4 but I'd like to know if it has intervals of high idle then back to normal? He's charging $65 with no labor charge but I want to make sure it's what I want. I don't want to have to flip the swich if I want higher RPM's, then flip it down for 750RPM. I'm hoping it can just do it on its own once the switch is flipped.
Anyone have any information on this?
On an interesting note, when he took the truck to the back to check if he could enable it, apparently, just by plugging the computer to the truck, the engine hours somewhat went back to ZERO! As far as he was concerned all he did was plug the thing in and check some option but just that alone, it cleared my engine hours! I was somewhat upset. Anyone heard of this issue before?
I went down to the dealer and asked. The manager wasn't sure because it was an '07 and they differ from year to year. The previous years were installed with a module but this one was only to be programmed, according the manual.
To make a long story short, he did not have the hardware to program and was going to notify me when Ford delivered such device to get it going.
It is suppose to work off the AUX 4 but I'd like to know if it has intervals of high idle then back to normal? He's charging $65 with no labor charge but I want to make sure it's what I want. I don't want to have to flip the swich if I want higher RPM's, then flip it down for 750RPM. I'm hoping it can just do it on its own once the switch is flipped.
Anyone have any information on this?
On an interesting note, when he took the truck to the back to check if he could enable it, apparently, just by plugging the computer to the truck, the engine hours somewhat went back to ZERO! As far as he was concerned all he did was plug the thing in and check some option but just that alone, it cleared my engine hours! I was somewhat upset. Anyone heard of this issue before?
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From: All Over
There is no programming necessary. Your dealer is confused....all you have to do is connect one wire to your upfitter switch.
I tried posting a link on the procedure for 05-07 but it wouldn't allow me to post it. I'd have done the copy and paste but there are pictures that go along with it.
As far as your hour meter going back to zero...my guess is the dealer reset something because he didn't know what he was doing when he had your truck hooked up.
I tried posting a link on the procedure for 05-07 but it wouldn't allow me to post it. I'd have done the copy and paste but there are pictures that go along with it.
As far as your hour meter going back to zero...my guess is the dealer reset something because he didn't know what he was doing when he had your truck hooked up.
Last edited by Bear Hunter; Nov 21, 2006 at 11:01 PM.
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From: AZ
Nice!
Now, does it work like I was stating above?
Idles high for such number of seconds then drops down for another amount of seconds and so fort with just the flip of the switch? Also, how would you set what idle speep you want it to jump to for high ilde?
Now, does it work like I was stating above?
Idles high for such number of seconds then drops down for another amount of seconds and so fort with just the flip of the switch? Also, how would you set what idle speep you want it to jump to for high ilde?
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From: All Over
This is courtesy of StuartV from TDG
....I recommend you use the BCP wire if you don't have PTO.
As far as your other concern about not wanting to manually activate it....yes you will. Your truck has a cold weather strategy that will bump it up to 900 automatically, but for anything higher it will have to be manual.
....I recommend you use the BCP wire if you don't have PTO.
As far as your other concern about not wanting to manually activate it....yes you will. Your truck has a cold weather strategy that will bump it up to 900 automatically, but for anything higher it will have to be manual.
This is the easy step-by-step instructions to set up your 05 or 06 SuperDuty to have a high idle option. This is for diesel trucks with the factory auxiliary upfitter switches. This procedure replaces the need in the older trucks to buy an AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module from Ford.
Refer here for pictures:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bb_pdf/160.pdf
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
wire stripper
crimper
Parts:
one butt connecter for 18ga(?) wire
How to do it:
- pull the full panel cover off. It's the big panel just below the steering wheel. The top just pulls out from the dash and then swings down to let the bottom catches come free.
- Remove the 4 bolts (10 mm heads) that hold the fuse panel in place. Pull it out and let it hang down.
- find the upfitter switch wire you want to use (see picture for location).
- find the SEIC or BCP wire you want to use (same picture).
- strip the end of each wire 1/4" and crimp the butt connect on them to connect them together.
- put the fuse panel back in place and reinstall the bolts.
- snap the fuse cover back in place.
- drink beer. (Very Important Step!)
SEIC or BCP wire?
You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your tranny), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire the the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).
Differences in behavior:
BCP
- will automatically vary RPMS from 1200 up to 2400 to maintain battery charge
- does not lock the torque converter
- has an additional wire that is an output that can be used to turn on an indicator lamp to show that BCP is active. I.e. if you want to install an LED in your dash to tell you BCP is on. Since the upfitter switch has a light on the end of this, I don't see much point in this (if you're using a factory upfitter switch).
SEIC
- does not automatically vary the RPMs. Sets idle at 1200 (unless you take advantage of the additional control wire).
- has an additional control wire that you can hook a resistor to to vary the RPMs. You could install a variable potentiometer (i.e. a **** on your dash) to let you dial in whatever RPMs you want, when SEIC is active - from 1200 to 2400 (I think that's the max).
- locks the torque converter.
Which Upfitter Wire To Use:
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
Thanks to 6Robert2 for posting this earlier
The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.
Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room in there to fit hands and tools in there. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can, too.
Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
- start the engine.
- set the emergency brake.
- have the tranny in Park.
- do not have your foot on the foot brake.
- flip the upfitter switch to the up (On) position.
Once all the conditions are met, the idle will go right up to about 1200. If you step on the foot brake, release the e-brake, or put the truck in gear, BCP (or SEIC) will disengage and the RPMs will drop back down to 600'ish. If you undo/redo the correct conditions (i.e. take your foot back off the brake, etc.) the RPMs will go back up with a few seconds.
Refer here for pictures:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...bb_pdf/160.pdf
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
wire stripper
crimper
Parts:
one butt connecter for 18ga(?) wire
How to do it:
- pull the full panel cover off. It's the big panel just below the steering wheel. The top just pulls out from the dash and then swings down to let the bottom catches come free.
- Remove the 4 bolts (10 mm heads) that hold the fuse panel in place. Pull it out and let it hang down.
- find the upfitter switch wire you want to use (see picture for location).
- find the SEIC or BCP wire you want to use (same picture).
- strip the end of each wire 1/4" and crimp the butt connect on them to connect them together.
- put the fuse panel back in place and reinstall the bolts.
- snap the fuse cover back in place.
- drink beer. (Very Important Step!)
SEIC or BCP wire?
You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your tranny), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire the the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).
Differences in behavior:
BCP
- will automatically vary RPMS from 1200 up to 2400 to maintain battery charge
- does not lock the torque converter
- has an additional wire that is an output that can be used to turn on an indicator lamp to show that BCP is active. I.e. if you want to install an LED in your dash to tell you BCP is on. Since the upfitter switch has a light on the end of this, I don't see much point in this (if you're using a factory upfitter switch).
SEIC
- does not automatically vary the RPMs. Sets idle at 1200 (unless you take advantage of the additional control wire).
- has an additional control wire that you can hook a resistor to to vary the RPMs. You could install a variable potentiometer (i.e. a **** on your dash) to let you dial in whatever RPMs you want, when SEIC is active - from 1200 to 2400 (I think that's the max).
- locks the torque converter.
Which Upfitter Wire To Use:
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
Thanks to 6Robert2 for posting this earlier
The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.
Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room in there to fit hands and tools in there. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can, too.
Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
- start the engine.
- set the emergency brake.
- have the tranny in Park.
- do not have your foot on the foot brake.
- flip the upfitter switch to the up (On) position.
Once all the conditions are met, the idle will go right up to about 1200. If you step on the foot brake, release the e-brake, or put the truck in gear, BCP (or SEIC) will disengage and the RPMs will drop back down to 600'ish. If you undo/redo the correct conditions (i.e. take your foot back off the brake, etc.) the RPMs will go back up with a few seconds.
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Postmaster
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From: Arizona
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,196
Likes: 11
From: Arizona
Originally Posted by whodatt
So what, if any, are the negative effects/reasons for locking the torque converter? I will probably hook up the BCP switch, but I'm just curious.
When using the BCP wire for elevated idle controll, this system is used to maintain the batteries at proper charge levels while the vehicle is idling and running electrical equipment like lights, radios, etc, (used on ambulances and the like). Since the transmission is not driving any components, the Torque converter does not need to be locked up.
Hope this helps
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Thanks for the response, and that is just how I understood it to work. My question though is are there any negative aspects to having the torque converter locked up if I'm not using a PTO. Just trying to figure out weather I want to enable the variable RPM or just live with the elevated (1200 RPM) idle and be happy with that. Just trying to understand the entire system as most of this is new to me.
Please excuse my noobi-ness, and my tendancies to over analize everything.
Please excuse my noobi-ness, and my tendancies to over analize everything.