I have been looking for the thread where Dave Sponaugle tells how to check if the CDR is good or not. With the search feature turned off, this has been hard to do. Does anyone know what thread that is? Thanks.

 

I just tried the search and it seems to be working? I'll try doing a CDR / DS search and see if it turns up anything...

 

I cleaned it up yesterday, from what I remember about Dave's earlier post. Cleaned it real good with gasoline, and checked that the diaphram worked by blowing on that tiny hole on the back of the CDR.

The dealer parts guy knew what the CDR is - and could order a new one in for about $55. The Napa and Autozone guys didn't know about it and couldn't find it. I thought that was kinda weird.

 

I'm game, what is a CDR? What does it do and were is it located?
84 6.9

 

Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) performs much the same function as a PCV valve on a gasoline engine. It is about the size and shape of a large family-sized tuna can mounted right behind the intake manifold opening. You have to take the air cleaner off to see it.

To clean it, take it off, lay it in a pan and pour it full of gasoline. Let it sit a while, and swish it around and dump it out. Repeat the process two or three times until the gasloline comes out clean. Set it aside and allow all the gasoline to evaporate before putting it back onto the manifold.

If at any point in the process you see little chunks of rubber then the diaphragm is deteriorated and the CDR needs to be replaced.

 

Thank you, my Chilton 26662 manual didn't even list any diesel engines in the Crank case ventilation system page. In fact if you really want to waste some money buy this manual, I picked it up to use to replace my heater core then found out the only thing that was the same as my truck was the location of the glove box.

 

Do you know when to service your CDR valve?

All 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines are equipped with a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) valve. Even the new 7.3L Power Stroke is also equipped with the same valve. The CDR valve is one of the leading causes of head gasket failure in these engines. The CDR valve is responsible for controlling the pressure/vacuum in the engine crankcase, and seperating the oil mist from the air and returning the oil to the crankcase. The CDR valve should be serviced every second oil change or when signs listed below are seen.

When the CDR valve is not properly serviced, engine oil enters the air intake and is drawn into the engine. The diesel engine will burn this oil as fuel, however, it is heavier and thicker than diesel fuel and, having greater BTU output, causes excessive heat in the cylinder. Due to the intake manifold design, most of the oil will migrate to #7 and #8 cylinders; the last two cylinders in the rear by the firewall. The increased temperature here will cause the cylinder head to lift off the gasket and allow water or oil to leak out the back of the cylinder head where it meets the block.

To check your CDR valve, remove the air cleaner hold down bolt and inspect it. If the bolt is covered with engine oil mist, it's time to service your CDR valve! Ford calls this item a "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A or IH part #1805319C1


To service the CDR wash with a solvent, allow to dry, do not use compressed air to dry. There is a small hole in the CDR back cover, ensure it is clean and open. If black chunks of rubber are visible in the intake, on the screen then the rubber membrane has disintegrated, replace the CDR.

 

I get to install my new BUJIA Glow plugs and Motorcraft controller today, I'll do the CDR also.

 

Hope you mean BERU GPs.......

Please put a signature with lots of truck info.........

 

I can't find where to put a signature, it took ten minutes to figure out how to edit my profile, why not have a Edit Profile link instead of having to click Register? I tried finding a help section but no luck on that. Guess that is why we use PHPBB instead of vBulletin.

The glow plugs were ordered before I found this site, they are from http://www.delphiauto.com - well see how long they last and they are better then what I have now, nothing! (all of them are bad)

 

About the CDR valve...

How do I get it out to clean it? Does it just pop out? Also, I plan on getting my Banks turbo installed and it has a relocated CDR, what should I look for to ensure that it is working properly?

 

There are two bolts with 1/2" heads - one on each side of the CDR cannister - the bolts go through tabs on the CDR with a holes in them. Remove the bolts, tilt the CDR towards the rear of the engine an inch or so, then pull up on it to pull the pipe on the bottom side of the CDR from the grommet in the valley pan gasket. Of course re-installing it is the reverse.

 

Removed the air cleaner and found half the air intake covered with a piece of matt off the hood, I figured it didn't belong and removed it. I removed the CDR and put it into a cleaning solution while I changed the glow plugs, 30 minutes later I had the controller and plugs installed. I got a lot of black out of the CDR but no rubber and it looks new now. I installed the CDR, replaced the air filter, put the anti-freeze back in the radiator (I thought the CDR was in the water jacket) then turned the key on and had a GLOW light for the first time! When the Glow light went out I cranked the starter and one second later and NO WHITE SMOKE the engine started. I wanted to know how bad the exhaust leak was between the exhaust manifold and tail pipe so I crawled under the truck by the started and noticed anti-freeze... In fact the hole side of the engine showed signs of having been coated with anti-freeze for a long time, the paint on the starter was bubbling off and there was white stuff on everything. I looked at the block heater, head to block area, nothing, then as I was crawling out I noticed some anti-freeze dripping from the front of the engine. Turns out the thermostat housing was leaking, the fluid ran down the block to the oil pan where the fan blew it to the rear of the engine. The mess in the rear of the engine was caused by the bad heater core I replaced, it must have been leaking for several years.

Going to Ford in the AM to get a new thermostat, maybe the 8th time is the charm.

Having half the air intake covered may have been the reason for all the white smoke when I dumped the peddle, just driving around there isn't any but if you put the peddle down I would get white smoke.

 

Sounds like you're making good progress. If it still dumps a little white smoke when you romp on it, the next thing to check is probably timing. It may be timed too slow. Mine would give a puff of smoke when you stomped on the pedal AND when you lifted off the throttle suddenly. Turned out it was timed nearly 10 degrees too slow (2 degrees ATDC instead of 8 degrees BTDC).

 

I've replaced all the rubber under the hood but the return lines, I plan on replacing the injectors and installing new hoses next month. Next project is to rebuild the starter, the solenoid is hanging and to figure out why the center tank is only 10 gallons and the rear tank is only 14 gallons.