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it could be the steering box, could be worn tie rod ends. Have someone work the steering wheel back & fourth while you look underneath and feel for play in the tie rod ends. There should be no play at all. You can make adjustments to the steering box but I would go by the instructions in a shop manual or factory service manual.
between the steering box and steering column, in the engine bay, there is a slider shaft that is part of the collapsible section of the column. in it is a nylon bushing that is held in place by a steel clip. if the steel clip falls out, the bushing will either fall out, or walk up into the outer shaft, causing about 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel. to check if it is this, have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you watch the two pieces of the shaft. you will know instantly if the bushing is missing.
unfortunately, you can not buy just the bushing and clip. it is all part of the lower steering shaft, and runs around $250. i get mine from a local junkyard for $15 when needed and just replace the lower shaft.
Granted their $276 from their main website, but would it be worth it?
I personally don't want to hunt junkyards for a bushing and clip every so many years. (junkyards in my area are WEAK compared to when I was spoiled in Detroit with AWESOME junk yards)
I noticed that the two shafts on mine have a bit of play in then. Any photos of the bushing your were talking about and how it should look, tjc? I am sure my gearbox has a little play also, but decided to check this today after reading about it here.
you can not tell if it is good or bad by looking at it. you need to have someone in the truck, and turn the wheel as you look at the slider on lower shaft and you will know rite away if it is the problem or not . bad=lots of play. good=it will be tight
Well ... it isn't either of those .... bad or good. I unlocked the wheel and from under the hood turned the linkage near the universal joint .... there was about 1/4 inch play doing this and not letting the lower rod that goes into the gearbox move. I have a straight 6 ... maybe it is easier to do this than on a V8.
I just redid my front bearings, and it tightened up my stearing quite a bit more then i even expected. Quicker responce and such.
No defininates yet.
threw 38 lb's of torque on the spindle nuts for the hubs. said 35-40 in the book, and i drove it around the block.
now i'm working on ignition stuff.
Tightening the gear box can have good and bad effects.
Mine lasted about a week, then it went back to the way it was.
Then found out i had some bad stearing parts also.
Get the front end off the ground and grab the wheels and see if they have play that way too.
Yep, be careful if you tighten up the box. Make sure you spin the steering wheel lock to lock a few times as sometime too much tightening will bind the box.
Have you checked the radius arm bushings? Those on the pass. side go quickly because they are so close to the cat. converter heat. It is truly amazing how bad these can get, or just plain fall apart, and the symptoms are barely noticable.
I've read somewhere that the best replacement is poly urathane but I haven't found a source yet.
Make sure who ever replaces yours keeps the metel "cup cake" cover as it shield the pass. side from the heat. The previous owner of my '92 tossed this and the truck ate these quickly until I realised the missing shield.
Granted their $276 from their main website, but would it be worth it?
I personally don't want to hunt junkyards for a bushing and clip every so many years. (junkyards in my area are WEAK compared to when I was spoiled in Detroit with AWESOME junk yards)