Diesel dripping from engine
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Diesel dripping from engine
I have a 99 f350 and I now have diesel dripping from what looks like a drain tube in the front of the engine. None of my books have any info on it. The fuel drips and lands on the front suspension and then the ground creating a hole in my asfault driveway. Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening?
Thanks Aaron
Thanks Aaron
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
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From: Central, Al
Drainvalve o-rings Are a common problem but check the other spots also:
1. Under the GPR there is a small metal P clip that can loosen and rub the fuel line to the pass side read of the head.
2. Driver side front fuel feed in the head between the motor and the Alt braket.
3. Fuel Bowl Cap and bevel gasket.
1. Under the GPR there is a small metal P clip that can loosen and rub the fuel line to the pass side read of the head.
2. Driver side front fuel feed in the head between the motor and the Alt braket.
3. Fuel Bowl Cap and bevel gasket.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
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From: Huntsville, TX.
I have the same problem as the original post on this thread. It started a few days ago, after a fairly significant drop in weather temperature. My truck sat for a few days, without being started. When I got in it to drive, I noticed a puddle of diesel under the frontend.
I raised the hood, fired up the engine, and noticed diesel dripping from the bottom of the black plastic piece that the drain valve lever mounts to. This black plastic piece looks to be held on by 4 small Phillips-head screws, and is mounted on the rear of the fuel filter canister.
Am I understanding correctly that there is an o-ring (or o-rings) inside of this black plastic piece, between it and the filter canister?
I have tried to research this problem a bit here on the forum, but the search feature apprears to have been temporarily disabled. I found another thread that said something about using special "diesel-proof" o-rings. Can I simply run down to my local auto parts store and pick up some regular o-rings, or do I really need some that are diesel-proof? Is there one o-ring in there or more than one?
I apologize for the multiple questions, but again....the search feature has been disabled. I typically do my own research here, but this time I am asking for some help. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Dan
2000 F-250 2WD 7.3PSD
I raised the hood, fired up the engine, and noticed diesel dripping from the bottom of the black plastic piece that the drain valve lever mounts to. This black plastic piece looks to be held on by 4 small Phillips-head screws, and is mounted on the rear of the fuel filter canister.
Am I understanding correctly that there is an o-ring (or o-rings) inside of this black plastic piece, between it and the filter canister?
I have tried to research this problem a bit here on the forum, but the search feature apprears to have been temporarily disabled. I found another thread that said something about using special "diesel-proof" o-rings. Can I simply run down to my local auto parts store and pick up some regular o-rings, or do I really need some that are diesel-proof? Is there one o-ring in there or more than one?
I apologize for the multiple questions, but again....the search feature has been disabled. I typically do my own research here, but this time I am asking for some help. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.
Dan
2000 F-250 2WD 7.3PSD
Last edited by xrDan; Nov 19, 2006 at 08:14 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 152
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From: Yacolt, Washington
Here's a link to info on the O rings, I'm not sure if it will show? first time I've tried to attach a pdf file & it doesn't show in the preview.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 152
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From: Yacolt, Washington
I've found some more info on the O rings that was from a previous posting by another member.
From McMasterCarr: (1/4" ID X 1/2" OD X 1/8" thick)
Viton O-ring are $5.46 for pack of 25 (PN# 9464K118)
http://www.mcmaster.com/
From McMasterCarr: (1/4" ID X 1/2" OD X 1/8" thick)
Viton O-ring are $5.46 for pack of 25 (PN# 9464K118)
http://www.mcmaster.com/
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
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From: Huntsville, TX.
Thanks for the feedback, wfmcbride.
I have called around to a few local places, and it looks like I will need to order o-rings from McMaster....if I want the Viton rings. It will take a few days to get them in the mail. I need my truck on the road. If I get plain-jane o-rings from the local auto parts store, will they last a few days, or will they "blow-out" pretty quick? Should I even be concerned about getting Viton o-rings or will normal o-rings work fine?
I have called around to a few local places, and it looks like I will need to order o-rings from McMaster....if I want the Viton rings. It will take a few days to get them in the mail. I need my truck on the road. If I get plain-jane o-rings from the local auto parts store, will they last a few days, or will they "blow-out" pretty quick? Should I even be concerned about getting Viton o-rings or will normal o-rings work fine?
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
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From: Escondido, Ca.
If you are ordering from McMaster, you have several choices: you have Buna-N, Viton, and PTFE, the last one being the best choice. They will all work it's just your decision which one you use. The cost difference is not really an issue. You will probably feel better installing the better grade for piece of mind. If you get on McMaster Carr website you can look at their material chart to see the ratings for each material. This may not be that important to you, it's just something to look at.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
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From: Huntsville, TX.
Originally Posted by phatdually1
If you are ordering from McMaster, you have several choices: you have Buna-N, Viton, and PTFE, the last one being the best choice. They will all work it's just your decision which one you use. The cost difference is not really an issue. You will probably feel better installing the better grade for piece of mind. If you get on McMaster Carr website you can look at their material chart to see the ratings for each material. This may not be that important to you, it's just something to look at.
I have removed the valve assembly, and now I'm having a problem finding a place that carries even a quick-fix replacement like the Danco#90. I'm in New Waverly, TX (very small town North of Houston), visiting my father, and it's Sunday. There are a couple of larger towns north and south of here, but not much is open today. The big-name auto parts places haven't been very helpful. I may give Home Depot a call.
Hey, Texas Outlaw....
I see you're in Willis. Got any ideas?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 60
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From: Huntsville, TX.
For those interested......the end to my little saga:
My father and I went to one of the aforementioned little towns to the south. No luck at O'Reilly or AutoZone, but we found a small auto repair shop in Conroe, TX that was open. This place had a few 3/4 ton and dually trucks in the lot (no Fords
), but something told me to stop and ask. The guy I spoke to was a great guy. He had no new o-rings the size I needed, but he said he had recently replaced a fuel canister on a PSD because of a leak. The customer tried to have the leak fixed on several occasions with no luck. As my luck would have it, the customer had the o-rings replaced shortly before discovering he needed the whole canister replaced. The mechanic took the customer's old drain valve assembly off of the bad canister and gave me the nearly-new, green o-rings. (not sure why they are green)
I must be livin' right.
We raced home, popped in the "new" rings, bolted the thing back up.....no leak!
If you're ever in or near Conroe, and find yourself in need of repair (that you can't do yourself)....look around for a little shop named "Speedy's". That guy bailed me out of a jam and wouldn't take any money for it. Good karma.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Aaron.
My father and I went to one of the aforementioned little towns to the south. No luck at O'Reilly or AutoZone, but we found a small auto repair shop in Conroe, TX that was open. This place had a few 3/4 ton and dually trucks in the lot (no Fords
), but something told me to stop and ask. The guy I spoke to was a great guy. He had no new o-rings the size I needed, but he said he had recently replaced a fuel canister on a PSD because of a leak. The customer tried to have the leak fixed on several occasions with no luck. As my luck would have it, the customer had the o-rings replaced shortly before discovering he needed the whole canister replaced. The mechanic took the customer's old drain valve assembly off of the bad canister and gave me the nearly-new, green o-rings. (not sure why they are green) I must be livin' right.
We raced home, popped in the "new" rings, bolted the thing back up.....no leak!
If you're ever in or near Conroe, and find yourself in need of repair (that you can't do yourself)....look around for a little shop named "Speedy's". That guy bailed me out of a jam and wouldn't take any money for it. Good karma.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Aaron.