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I had the same problem last weak. I took about an 1/8 turn on two of the torq screws and seems to have stopped. After tightning the screws I dried off the top of the block and cleaned it off with brake clean and so far no more leak
Keep a close eye on it, it seems that the ULSD is especally hard on those o-rings, it might just be coincidence but there have been a rash of them since it started comming to market.
Keep a close eye on it, it seems that the ULSD is especally hard on those o-rings, it might just be coincidence but there have been a rash of them since it started comming to market.
Add me to the list, I could not find the o-rings and the local stealership was out, the only option was the $46 valve with new o-rings but it got me back pn the road so it was a small price to pay. It was interesting that the stealership was out as according to the parts guy the usually keep 12 sets on hand and sold out ove rthe last 2 weeks.
Just ordered up the PTFE O-rings from McMaster to take care of my new leak. I'm wondering about pressure in the fuel system. Is there anything I need to do to relieve the pressure prior to opening the valve and draining the cup?
Nop pressure to speak of, just open the valve.....the screws on my valve where torx head, I used a chapman set to get them out but it was a bit of a PITA.
Thanks Clem! And thanks everyone once again for this forum! My ball joint replacement didn't go as smoothly as everyone elses. But I at least knew what to expect, and what needed to be done. You guys rule!
checked on the motor and developed a leak again so I went to a local hydrolic shop and got new rings that were rated for diesel fuel for a buck a piece. couldn't find the right ones at lowes or hd. Arter looking at the old rings, they just seem to be wore out. they were extremely hard and flat. I don't think it is the ulsd I think these o rings are just showing there age.
I have needed to replace my drain valve o-rings for a while, a repair I made using Danco #90 about 3 years ago. I have tried to find a local retail supplier for viton o-rings in the greater Los angeles area with little luck. Today, I just ordered a pack of 25 Viton AND a pack of 10 PTFE o-rings for about $15 total from McMaster-Carr. They happen to be based in Santa Fe Springs and I will have my o-rings tomorrow. I figured that I have spent that much (and more!) in time and driving locally in my search. If anybody needs these 0-rings in the future, and while my oversupply holds out, contact me at "chardagha@verizon.net" and I will send them out.
Side note: Use the AS568B # -202 in order to assure correct sizing when inquiring about these o-rings.
Keep a close eye on it, it seems that the ULSD is especally hard on those o-rings, it might just be coincidence but there have been a rash of them since it started comming to market.
We got the new fuel around here "PNW" a while back. Mine started leaking a month or so later.
I ordered the O rings from dFuser and they stopped the leak.
But what a pain in the *** to install two f'n O rings.
I just did the o-ring change out and still have a leak at the same spot. I bought the mc master carr ptfe o-rings and I had to press them in to the plastic piece with the vice there was no way i could get them in with my hand. now when i tried to tighten the screws just a little more it feels like one of them might be stripping any ideas? Should i get the vitom o-rings instead? try again(since you get 10 in a bag)??
Hopefully the screws are not stripped.
The "O" Rings I recieved from Dfuser needed a little white lithiun grease to hold them in place while the drain assy. is repositioned.
They did not need to be pressed in. I think you have the wrong size "O" rings.
I ordered part# 9559k202 from mc-master but I'm thinking you might be right. i thought that i got that number from a post here. thinking about ordering the other's. is dfuser a web site?