Hydraulic Clutch Conversion.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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Hydraulic Clutch Conversion.
I'm wondering if anyone has ever converted the hydraulic clutch on the ranger over to a mechanical "steel rod" or cable type actuator ? the reason I ask is cause I'm pissed at having to pay fairly high prices for parts that in the past were not necessary "steel rod type actuator" or reasonably priced parts such as the cable type actuator. here's a brief example of costs.
76 F-250 4x4 steel rod clutch actuator, cost $ 0 they don't break.
76 Ford Capri Clutch Cable, cost $ 12.46 U.S.
86 Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder, cost $ 70 U.S $ 109 Cdn.
86 Ranger Clutch Slave Clylinder, cost $ 116 U.S $ 271 Cdn.
Personally I'm not seeing the advantage of hydraulic over old school except it's making someone lots of money !
76 F-250 4x4 steel rod clutch actuator, cost $ 0 they don't break.
76 Ford Capri Clutch Cable, cost $ 12.46 U.S.
86 Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder, cost $ 70 U.S $ 109 Cdn.
86 Ranger Clutch Slave Clylinder, cost $ 116 U.S $ 271 Cdn.
Personally I'm not seeing the advantage of hydraulic over old school except it's making someone lots of money !
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Southeast MI
Wonder why no one's biting on this one. I have read a bit on this one and is my own super-gripe with Ford. OTOH, a mech clutch should be hard to use with most Rangers for normal people. Most would blow clutches a ridiculous rate without hydraulics and rough on the trucks. The only real prob is Ford's declining quality with hydraulic seals and persistence of sticking to internal clutch. There was a post in the last day or 2 talking of swapping bell-housings for the 2.8 version which used an external slave cylinder. I know nothing of it's feasibility for newer engines, though- yet. Otherwise, how about a T5 or the like?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
Hydraulic clutch never needs adjustment vs antique vehicle mechanical clutch that needs adjustment every 5 - 10K miles. Low/no maintenance is where it's at and vehicles are compared against one another for, amongst many things including annual maintenance cost.
*IC your vehicles are like 21 to 31 years old. Nothing lasts forever and after that many years I'd have to say you got your moneys worth out of it. And that's how I looked at it back in 1980, when I broke the ball stud for a clutch bell crank off in my engine block. Lots of fun when you have 6" of working space and can't just drill it and use an easy out. Yup, the joy of old fashioned clutch setups and their headaches when bad luck strikes.
*IC your vehicles are like 21 to 31 years old. Nothing lasts forever and after that many years I'd have to say you got your moneys worth out of it. And that's how I looked at it back in 1980, when I broke the ball stud for a clutch bell crank off in my engine block. Lots of fun when you have 6" of working space and can't just drill it and use an easy out. Yup, the joy of old fashioned clutch setups and their headaches when bad luck strikes.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Nov 17, 2006 at 09:45 PM.
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Yeah actually I no longer own any of the vehicles I mentioned above, those are just examples, if you add up the price of the master and slave it would cost me $ 280.00 before taxes to replace them, I'll stick with the $ 15 or $ 20 bucks it cost for a new cable and the five minutes it takes to adjust it, after initial break in a properly lubed clutch cable never experience's enough stress to stretch all that much, I've heard many horror stories of guys stuck in their driveways spending days trying to bleed their hydraulic clutch set up's, all stressed out and pissed off, meanwhile I'm back on the road cause it only took me 20 minutes to throw a new cable in, and an extra $ 260.00 in my pocket.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eastern WA
That busted ball stud took me a long day to extract and when you're only 18 YO you just don't know the tricks like you do 5/10/20 years later. Makes bleeding, using the correct proceedure and applied to quality components, look pretty good.
