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For years in the concrte business we had numerou idiots that were too cheap to pay the delivery charge to have a concrete truck to bring it out... so they would send someone to the plant in a pickup truck to pickup that 1/2 - 3/4 of a cubic meter instead.
A cubic meter of 3000 psi concrete weighs in about 5300 lbs.
Guess how many of those various makes of trucks got more than a block away trying to hauling that much ?
None ... the suspension literally crushed on the first Bounce.
But hey, these guys got to fix or replace their trucks
I would say it would depend on what springs and brakes the truck was equipped with. My '78 F-250 Supercab 7150 GVW hauled 350 gallons of water (3500 lbs) regularly from 1992-2006. It had factory overloads and the truck sat level loaded. The truck stopped and handled fine but it also had the same brakes the F-350 had.
My Dad's '65 M-350 DRW 10 000 GVW easily carried 500 gals of water (5000 lbs) from 1965-1992 and the overloads were just touching. It has carried 115 bushels of wheat (7000 lbs) which is pretty much the limit of the truck (axle is rated at a 7400lbs) but this was just from the field into the yard.
Guy's the GAWR is 9560lbs for F/R my truck wieghs 4250 But it seems like my 5klbs payload capability would be rough on the frame. SO ya overload I will. READ my POSTS or can you? again my GAWR is 9560 and my truck wieghs 4250 UUUMMMM with the 4k loads that I haul AROUND the farm it is fine and NOt I repeat NOT overloaded. i was simply asking if 5k would be pushing the frame or not, I'm WELL within my Axle rating seprate and combined. and my tires can carry 3700lbs EACH per sidewall load. Guys let's not be jerks about my courosity hereb I don't get sarcastic with the few of you that say OOOHHH call your insurance company,,, OOH if so and so jump off a bridge would you..GET real Simply asking a question I haven't blown up a church
Well, I would say boxing the frame rails is a bit of extra insurance. Not sure if it's entirely necessary or not. I build a lot of hot rod frames and usually cut the boxing plates out of 10ga. steel. Not sure the thickness of your frame, but the plates you are considering welding in should be at least the same thickness as the existing frame rails. It will not only strengthen the frame but will also take a lot of the torsional twisting out of the frame.
I won't comment on overloading, guilty of it myself on my parts runner truck. I don't really see any reason for everybody to get all over your case about it though... We all do things that aren't necessarily correct, sane, or legal. I guess for me it becomes an issue of people who live in glass houses shouldn't throw stones. You seem to be a responsible enough person to recognize these risks. Probably not a lot of reason for anyone to get so ugly about the whole deal.... JMO----
Anyway, like I said. Boxing the frame would be good insurance if you haul a load that close to the max weight for the truck, especially around the farm... Hauled a load or two around and off farms myself, the terrain will put added stress on the frame and crossmembers. The riveted crossmember to frame joints would be another area of concern, with the boxing plates, perhaps welding and gusseting some of the crossmembers would help also.
true enough about terrain issues and think that will be the case regardless of the truck size/load. I've seen unloaded trucks give due to terrain. Farm fields aren't too shaky but not smooth either. Still don't think it justifies putting 5000 lbs in the bed of a half ton truck.
Dustin- what is the GVW on the doorplate of your truck??? Probably around 5500 or something like that.... Subtract the weight of your truck from your GVW and that is what you should legally be hauling in your truck. Just because your truck has upgraded brakes or even suspension, it does not change GVW. The ONLY way to change GVW is to get a bigger truck. That's it. That being said I 've overloaded my truck the same as anyone else- if you do decide to do something stupid(choice of words based on my experiences- not what i think of yours) be careful to shift the load as far forward in the bed as possible, that will help your handling. your braking will still leave something to be desired(even as upgraded) so give yourself PLENTY of room.
Dustin 86 - your question reminds me of what my Dad used to tell me about the Model TTs he used to sell in huge numbers back in the twenties. These little trucks and their frames didn't look that strong but were amazingly tough. The Old Man used to tell me that farm folk never had any idea how much weight they were loading into the truck but rather just kept loading until no more would fit. The weak link was the transverse leaf springs (front & back) which were designed the break before the frame. In one case, a blacksmith told my Dad that an enthusiastic lad put almost 5 tons into the bed! Of course, the little truck suffered wheel, axle damage as well as broken springs. The blacksmith was supposed to straighten the banana'd frame.
Although your F series frame might take over 5000 lbs in the bed, you'll do some damage somewhere and will probably attract the attention of the Law.
You are correct on the GVW. The total gross is the combination of the rear and the front. When the rating are figured all the axle components are figured in. The net weight you can carry is the weight of the truck from the total gross. It will carry it if it is loaded right. Meaning evenly distributed. Like road tractors. They don't just look at the total weight. They look at where the weight is. Steers,drives, and trailer. 5000 is alot of weight on a pickup and remember that 1 pound of feathers and 1 pound of lead aren't the same thing.
I wouldn't worry about the frame.
I had a '78 F250 4x2 that my friend thought would handle a couple of tons of gravel. Didn't sag too bad, handled okay. Then after unloading, I had to look under the truck for some reason, and both upper shock mounts had broken. So I think frame strength is not the issue when hauling. BTW, my '01 F350 DRW 4x4 PSD CC was only rated for about 4600# payload, and that frame (and everything attached to it) was much heavier than the ones from the 70's.
If you really want to haul that much weight you should buy a dually f-350. They will haul the weight safely that you want to haul without much worry. I carry around a 5,550 pound camper (fully loaded) with airbag suspension all the time with my 2000 f-350 psd dually and have never had a failure or issue with 80,000 miles logged. I even often pull my boat with it at the same time. I'd be very learly hauling that much weight with a margin for safety in my 78 f-250.
It was more of a frame strength "curiosity" question not that I would load 5,000lbs in the bed as have access to a 16' BP trailer that hauls that kind of wieght fine. I just used 5,000 as a figure of break or no break for these frames but you guys seem to be telling me that they are REAL tough which is good to hear. It sure seems stronger than the frame on my 86 and my buddy's 95 F250 pSD (they twist laterly like pretzels) My 78 has vertally no frame flex torsionally like the 95,86 do. I would think that the 86 and 95 frame would "Buckle" sooner than the 78 for that reason
Dustin
the 86 and 95 have that flex built in them on purpose they flex instead of breaking and it results in a nicer ride too I had an 85 f-250 diesel that I beat to death severly overloaded and run hard never had a frame issue suspension was shot axels were toast body was faling apart especialy bed and it wasnt rust but the frame was fine my 70 wich has a similar frame to the later 70'strucks has also been overloaded but not like the 85 was I think the newer frames are probably able to hold more weight than the old ones because engineering is better and modern stronger steels areavailible today but I think all ford frames are probably overbuilt just my 2 cents