Testing mudulation in brake controller
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North AL.
Testing mudulation in brake controller
My controller seems to be wide open or off. I have the seven pin connector, how can I test the modulation myself? I have a testlight and a voltmeter I just need a little instruction.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North AL.
(Voltage modulation) Is that not the correct term for it? I want to know if my gain control is working as it should. I don't know the brand name of the brake controller but that shouldn't be a factor.I need to know what pin to measure voltage from and what that voltage should be.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: N. Georgia
It's fairly simple. Put the plus lead on your multimeter on the brake pin on the connector, minus lead goes to ground (we are at the back of the truck). Brake appliance is simply by an increase in voltage. It will start off at around 2 volts and increase as more braking is applied up to 12 volts. It sounds like you might need a new controller.
Joe
Joe
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Senior User
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From: North AL.
So when I turn the gain **** it should vary the voltage, right? The way you worded it it sounded like the harder I mash the brake pedal the higher the voltage. Sorry, new to the electric brake thing.
CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
Silvers -
Get a helper, and while you've got your VOM hooked up at the rear, have him adjust the gain while sliding the manual control lever slowly; the higher the gain, the quicker your VOM should climb to 12vdc when the lever is pushed. If you've got 12vdc no matter what the gain/lever positions are, you've got a bad controller.
Steve
Get a helper, and while you've got your VOM hooked up at the rear, have him adjust the gain while sliding the manual control lever slowly; the higher the gain, the quicker your VOM should climb to 12vdc when the lever is pushed. If you've got 12vdc no matter what the gain/lever positions are, you've got a bad controller.
Steve
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: N. Georgia
Originally Posted by silvers
So when I turn the gain **** it should vary the voltage, right? The way you worded it it sounded like the harder I mash the brake pedal the higher the voltage. Sorry, new to the electric brake thing.
Joe
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North AL.
I tested it last night. I connected my pos lead to the electric brake pin, neg lead to ground. I moved the level ****, gain **** and the lever in front. Ignition on and off, brakes mashed and not. It had 12 volts no matter what I did.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Millersville, MD
Originally Posted by Steina
Silvers -
Get a helper, and while you've got your VOM hooked up at the rear, have him adjust the gain while sliding the manual control lever slowly; the higher the gain, the quicker your VOM should climb to 12vdc when the lever is pushed. If you've got 12vdc no matter what the gain/lever positions are, you've got a bad controller.
Steve
Get a helper, and while you've got your VOM hooked up at the rear, have him adjust the gain while sliding the manual control lever slowly; the higher the gain, the quicker your VOM should climb to 12vdc when the lever is pushed. If you've got 12vdc no matter what the gain/lever positions are, you've got a bad controller.
Steve
If you have the OEM Ford controller, dependent on year of vehicle, you may not even be able to test as up to mid-year 2005 or so, it was required to have over 5 MPH speed to activate the controller. IE - when the door locks lock, the brake controller becomes active.
I agree that if you DO need a new controller, to buy the Prodigy. Camping World has a pretty good price.
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Senior User
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From: North AL.
I have a tekonsha controller. (not a prodigy) I do have 12 volts to the pin at all times. It seems like the brakes would be engaged all the time with that voltage there. Am I looking at this wrong? Maybe I have the wrong pin. I'm going by the wiring diagram on the connector cover, it could be wrong. I'll check the other pins tonight.