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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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Thermostat needed?

In my 53 F100 I just replaced the surge tank on my 360 FE motor, and when I changed it out I noticed the old one did not have a thermostat installed. So I purchased a 195 degree thermostat and installed it with the new reconditioned surge tank. Is this the proper thermostat that I am using? Its a Stant #29479. The local radiator shop said a thermostat is not neccesary, but I question this, so I installed one.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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195 sounds a bit high, it all depends on the clearances used when the motor was rebuilt. If it wasn't rebuilt, go by what Ford says was stock.

It should have a thermostat. This has been discussed many many times over the years in all sorts of places.

The quicker the engine comes to "operating temperature", the better. If the engine is allowed to run as cold as it wants, excess wear is the result.

In general, the piston/bore clearance should be at a certain point for general running. When cold, the piston/bore clearance is not what it should be. If run this way for a long time, you WILL notice more wear on the bores and the pistons.

Not to mention what happens with bearing clearances.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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It was rebuilt, I dont know history, I assume stock again I dont know for sure. What does Ford say is stock for the 360FE, any idea?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 12:49 PM
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Back in the 50's and 60's they were 160° and 180° thermostats. The higher temp ones are emissions era inspired, to make the motor more efficenent (yeah right).
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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If no thermostat, at least some kind of restriction to keep water flow slowed down some. I had to make a thermostat housing for my 390 because of the blower and I needed to make it come out the side, not up. I put a 5/8" thru hole in the mounting plate. It runs 170ish (no fan) driving around.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
The higher temp ones are emissions era inspired, to make the motor more efficenent (yeah right).
Not that it has anything to do with this thread, but I don't think in all the emissions related literature I've ever read did it mention "efficiency" as a goal
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by krewat
Not that it has anything to do with this thread, but I don't think in all the emissions related literature I've ever read did it mention "efficiency" as a goal
Maybe I have flawed thinking, but if you want less stuff out the tail pipe, then the engine should be more efficience. But then this is a government mandated requirement and I guess logic doesn't figure into it.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Freightrain
If no thermostat, at least some kind of restriction to keep water flow slowed down some. I had to make a thermostat housing for my 390 because of the blower and I needed to make it come out the side, not up. I put a 5/8" thru hole in the mounting plate. It runs 170ish (no fan) driving around.
Back in the bad old days, when we were racing and decided to not run a thermostat. We would remove the valve portion of the thermostat and reinstall the base only for restriction. Worked great and I don't remember anyone having a problem doing that.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bear 45/70
Maybe I have flawed thinking, but if you want less stuff out the tail pipe, then the engine should be more efficience. But then this is a government mandated requirement and I guess logic doesn't figure into it.
Actually, it's not always the case. Take NOx emissions for an example.

As to the removing the guts of the thermostat and just putting the base back, that's a great idea!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Put the 195 degree F unit in, seems to be running hotter on the gauge than b4. When I had no thermostat it registered cooler on the gauge. 53F100 gauge only has five marks, ( C - - - H ) Currently my gauge marks at the third - Should this be ok?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Get an aftermarket guage with numbers....then you have two references and one with real data. I tend to watch the main(stock) one and if it looks high then refer to the #'s. Never seen it over 200 with the new build. That was crawling up Trabucho Cnyn for fun last weekend. Most of the time it's at 160/180
 
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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As little faith as I put in the stock gauges, especially a '55 ... Sounds about right for a Ford gauge with no numbers, 195 usually puts it almost 3/4's of the way up. At least, the ones I've watched... 180 is usually just over half-way.

I'd stick with a 180. But that's just me.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 05:56 AM
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Yaeh I run 180's in all my junk also.....Makes for a nice heater when you get in during the winter!!

But basically all a t-stat is ...Is a heater control anyway!! all this crap about getting more HP running a cooler 160 stat is crap..you cant keep the engine running 160...if it wants to run 180 or 190! Once the T-stat is open its up to your cooling system to keep the motor in its operating temp! the stat hasnt a damn thing to do with it!! Other than getting it there fasyer or slower... JMO...

RJ
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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The T stat is there for quicker engine warmup it holds the water in place ie(heads) untils the Tstat is warm enough to open and let it mix with the rest of the sytem. I dont think it does much in the way of regulation in normal conditions. However in extreem cold I would think it functions as a temp rugulator but I've never lived in the North "THANK GOD" redkneck that I am...
 
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Redmanbob
The T stat is there for quicker engine warmup it holds the water in place ie(heads) untils the Tstat is warm enough to open and let it mix with the rest of the sytem. I dont think it does much in the way of regulation in normal conditions. However in extreem cold I would think it functions as a temp rugulator but I've never lived in the North "THANK GOD" redkneck that I am...
The t-stat should cycle open and closed if you have an large enough cooling system (not alway the case with the newer cars and trucks and their higher operating temps). Watch your water flow with the cap off the radiator. The water doesn't flow for a while as the motor heats up, thermo opens and water flows. Motor gets cooler water from the radiator and closes again. If the radiator is big enough, the thermostat should continue to cycle open and closed.
 
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