I would like to rebuild my engine in my 76 Ranchero. I was thinking of maybe picking up a 351C block and rebuilding that, then just swap out engines. Or...I can pull out my 351M and rebuild that. What should I do?

Right now on my 351M,it has a Weiand 8010 intake and a Holley Double pumper. On the topic of carbs...how do you tell the difference between a 650 and 750 cfm carb? This one came with the car so I have no clue.

For upgrades I was thinking a cam and lifter kit, pistons, headers, and MSD Ignition. Kinda goin for the something in the 300 HP range. This is my first build so I am sure going to need some help.

 

Hold up on the engine swap. Check your trans bolt patern. You probably answer that question yourself. Look for a 400 if you want that kind of power or turn yours into a 400. First off 351m and 400 were bad about the blocks cracking around the lifter bores. If they are cracked they will hold good oil pressure cold and then they would fall off alot when hot. About 50%. Most of the blocks cracked. I have a 351m and a 400 that are not cracked and they don't fall off more then 20%. That doesn't mean the engines gonna blow up on you. Most are cracked and most machine shops don't know where to look. If yours does this don't automaticly assume that it's bearing wear causing it. If you look on your vehicle Most Ford' s sense their oil pressure at the top end. If you use stock pistons, the wrist pin is offset from the center of the piston, put them in backwards. This will give you more torque. Not much but some. Ford did this to dampen engine noise. I can't here the difference, maybe dogs can. Also when you put the rockers on you want to shim them. Do this. With the cam on the inner base circle, lobe away from the lifter. With the pushtube touching the lifter and the rocker. When you tighen down the rocker you only want the tube to push down in the lifter .010" to .012". You get more lift on your valve. Put your money in your heads. Power is in the heads. Bore your block the minimum you need to clean it up. Boring out blocks is overrated for what you are doing. I would rather have more cylinder wall strength. Put the biggest valve that will fit in the head. You also don't need an aftermarket ignition. The old factory ford ingnition was hot. Plenty hot for what you are doing. I have seen a 460 put 450hp on a Dino with that ingnition. Don't get crazy on a big carb. I have a 600 holley on my 400. It's all it needs. I have all the power it will make and I also get pretty good fuel mileage for what it is. I am getting around 16 in a 79 3/4 ton with a 3.55 gear unless I am trying to remember my youth then it's 8. Take it easy. Hope this helps.

 

In around 1971-2, Ford sent a letter to its dealers warning of sand casting problems with the 351C. Ford came out with a liquid metal in a can (there was a part #, I can't remember it) that could be poured into the rear valley area near numbers 7 & 8 cylinders. At that time, there was never a recall...and was hush hush.

The later 74-79 351M-400 cylinder heads were also prone to cracking. The cheapest fix for the customers (this was in the days before 5/50 powertrain warranties) was to buy rebuilt heads, and charge the owners a core charge.

In 1977 alone, I must have passed out over 100 sets of heads over the back counter.

 

Get a 400 crank, bearings and a set of pistons from Tim Meyer. You can have your heads rebuilt or get a set of Aussie heads and a set of Headers. You can run up to about 9.5:1 CR with the right cam. That Ranchero will storm.

You can't swap in a 351C or 351W without a lot of extra work, and the 400 will give you more power.