2001 Ford Explorer Sport
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2001 Ford Explorer Sport
Hello everybody. I new to this. I have been having problems with my Ford explorer sport lately. It seems to have a lot of trouble starting in cold mornings. It seems like it wants to stall and the truck makes a noise where it is starving for air. It shakes alot and the engine seems to rev up and down. It has like 70,000 miles on it. I just replaced the the spark plugs, the spark plug wire, the iac valve, and put in a K&N air filter. Also I changed the oil and oil filter. Nothing seems to solve the problem. It only happens in cold weather. Once it warms it the truck runs like a champ. Any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance
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I did it again this morning. This time the truck reved up and and down and shakes viloently than it stalls out. I'll do more research on on choke problems thanks. There was no check engine light and it didn't throw any codes when i checked it with and obd meter.
Last edited by jmanosane; Nov 12, 2006 at 12:07 PM.
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It's your intake gaskets... fairly easy repair.
They are leaking vacuum when cold. It won't set any fault codes because before the computer goes into closed loop operation (once the engine warms up a tad) they warm up and seal up. Because they are leaking vacuum the engine is sensing less air, and reducing fuel to match air readings... which is leaning out the mixture to the point where it can hardly run, especially in cold weather.
You do NOT have a choke... you have injectors and computer controlled ignition.
Hope this helps you! Good luck
They are leaking vacuum when cold. It won't set any fault codes because before the computer goes into closed loop operation (once the engine warms up a tad) they warm up and seal up. Because they are leaking vacuum the engine is sensing less air, and reducing fuel to match air readings... which is leaning out the mixture to the point where it can hardly run, especially in cold weather.
You do NOT have a choke... you have injectors and computer controlled ignition.
Hope this helps you! Good luck
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As noted, you have no choke. That said, you do have a CTS and an IAC. These items are what took place of the choke.
Since you replaced the IAC, replace the CTS, (Coolant Temp Sensor) as they are very affordable and normally are defective if the IAC is good...
Since you replaced the IAC, replace the CTS, (Coolant Temp Sensor) as they are very affordable and normally are defective if the IAC is good...
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Is the intake gasket the same thing as the manifold o-rings and gasket? I heard that if there are leaks in this it can cause my problems. I think there is a TSB out on these up to 72000 miles. If I wanted them to get replaced do I just go to the dealer and ask them too?
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[QUOTE=Coastiejoe]As noted, you have no choke.
Correct, I know late model engines don't have a pyhsical choke anymore, and I'm sorry for the misleading comment. It wouldn't be an actual choke that is bad. More like, something in the new systems that replaced the chokes of old, is not responding. Hence the "SOME SORT OF" in my first reply.
Thank you for the correction guys.
T.
Correct, I know late model engines don't have a pyhsical choke anymore, and I'm sorry for the misleading comment. It wouldn't be an actual choke that is bad. More like, something in the new systems that replaced the chokes of old, is not responding. Hence the "SOME SORT OF" in my first reply.
Thank you for the correction guys.
T.
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No T.J. because the "new systems" are not a system at all.. the computer directly controls how much fuel is added to the engine, and it determines this based on air temperature, air volume, coolant temperature, engine load, and throttle input. These same systems are also used during "non-choke" (warmed up) operation.
I guarantee it is your intake.. and yes it IS the manifold O-rings. They look kind of like rubber bands and you'll notice the updated ford ones are about twice as thick as the originals.
Call your Ford dealer with your Vin and Mileage. If you are eligible for warranty repair, they will be MORE THAN HAPPY to do that for you, as Ford pays them to fix your car in that case.
Good luck!
I guarantee it is your intake.. and yes it IS the manifold O-rings. They look kind of like rubber bands and you'll notice the updated ford ones are about twice as thick as the originals.
Call your Ford dealer with your Vin and Mileage. If you are eligible for warranty repair, they will be MORE THAN HAPPY to do that for you, as Ford pays them to fix your car in that case.
Good luck!
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Jman... did you replace the intake seals yet? A vacuum leak can cause a high idle
condition.
If you have replaced them... then perform a KAM reset (Keep Alive Memory) to reset all the fuel strategies, etc... if you don't have a scanner that can do this, then disconnect the battery for about 1/2 hour. This way you force the computer for forget all the strategies it developed during the vacuum leak, and start from scratch.
Don't be surprised if it runs a little goofy the first 50 miles or so after clearing the computer. It takes a little time to relearn everything sometimes.
Good luck!
condition.
If you have replaced them... then perform a KAM reset (Keep Alive Memory) to reset all the fuel strategies, etc... if you don't have a scanner that can do this, then disconnect the battery for about 1/2 hour. This way you force the computer for forget all the strategies it developed during the vacuum leak, and start from scratch.
Don't be surprised if it runs a little goofy the first 50 miles or so after clearing the computer. It takes a little time to relearn everything sometimes.
Good luck!
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No I haven't replaced the intake gasket yet. I am waiting for the dealer to take it in and replace both upper and lower manifold intake gaskets. I reset the ecu today and the idle is now alot better. However when I stop at a red light the car like knocks once in a while. I don't know if that is a gasket problem. I pulled some codes today and got p0171 and p0174 system to lean error. Cleaned the MAF, changed the iac, don't know waht else could be causing it!
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Ford just replaced my manifold intake gasket but to no avail I still have the same problem. When I start up in the morning the truck goes over 1000 rpm and slow climbs back down to like 700 after it warms up. Than at a stop light my car wants to stall out. It seems that the car is starving for air. Do you guys think i need to replace the maf sensor. And how would i know if the maf is working properly?
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A 171 code indicates a MAF problem (see this link for more info: http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/a...r_flow_sensors .)
As this website says, you can clean the MAF but you have to be careful. If you broke the wire that heats incoming air, then you'll have to replace it. Also, the article says to use electric contact cleaner, which leaves no residue. Might want to pull it out again and check the wire; if it's OK, try cleaning it again.
As this website says, you can clean the MAF but you have to be careful. If you broke the wire that heats incoming air, then you'll have to replace it. Also, the article says to use electric contact cleaner, which leaves no residue. Might want to pull it out again and check the wire; if it's OK, try cleaning it again.
Last edited by kevin74656; Nov 23, 2006 at 04:33 PM.
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For the model year 01 to 05 in the Explorer series the 171 and the 174 code almost always come back to a vacuum leak. In the Sport Trac the problem comes back to the PVC elbow. Since I do not know how or if we can post pictures here, I have included two links to show you on the Sport Trac where this elbow is. You MUST look at the bottom of the elbow as that is where it cracks..
http://www.zjstech.net/~library/2290...e/Hose%201.jpg
http://www.zjstech.net/~library/2290...e/Hose%202.jpg
http://www.zjstech.net/~library/2290...e/Hose%201.jpg
http://www.zjstech.net/~library/2290...e/Hose%202.jpg