I'm trying to change my glow plugs and the GP's in #1&#2 won't come out. I'm at the end of the threads and they spin but won't remove... I tried pulling on them with pliers but they still won't remove. I can try more pressure with vice grips maybe but am afraid the bottom might break off. Not sure if I should just tighten them up and go with 6 or keep messin with them. Has this ever happened to anyone else?

 

that is a standard problem with aftermarket glow plugs. you can try spraying some penetrating oil down the plugs and then work them in and out. most of the time that will knock enough of the burnt plug off so you can pull them out.

when you get them out, only replace them with BERU/MOTORCRAFT glow plugs. anything else will only give you the same problems again down the road.

by only replacing the 6 that you have out now, you will only have to do them again soon, cause with only 6 plugs in the power circuit, you will be putting to much voltage to them, and burn them out.

 

This is not an uncommon problem. Get the vice grips and gently pull. They might have enough carbon buildup to cause a problem. Also use a product called PB blaster to help dissolve the carbon before pulling.

 

On my way with PB Blaster... Hope I don't have to pull the heads...

 

This might help you.....especially if it breaks off (god forbid)
http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/G...20article.html

 

After checking the other 6 GP's they were all open so I can imagine what the GP's in #1 and #2 look like, I can picture a big mushroom since they won't come out. I tightened them back down and am going to replace all my return lines tomorrow and see if it will start on 6 GP's. I need to get a top end gasket set ready in case I have to pull the heads. If it's too big to fit thru the GP hole now I'm afraid they will break off with excessive force. I want to have head gaskets and valley cover gaskets on hand if I have to pull the heads. We'll see how tomorrow goes. Thanks for all the info, this is a great web site!

 

I can tell you from experience that it takes some substantial cranking to start up on 6 GPs. It'll usually start after some extended cranking but some times you'll find that it takes much longer than others to get it to fire up.The hole for the injectors isn't very big either, but if one of the GPs should break off, you might be able to peek in through one hole while trying to fish out the tip through the other. Granted, the view will be extremely limited, but it's worth a try if you should find yourself faced with a broken tip.

 

STOP >>>>>>>>>>>> trying to remove the GP until you have the piston at TDC in the cylinder your working on.

Now I have your attention...... with the piston at TDC the tip cannot fall into the cylinder if it breaks off......it will remain in the precup. You can then remove the injector and remove the broken tip via the injector hole by using a vacuum and air compressor.

I would suggest using a portable drill in reverse attached to the GP turn the gp and gently pull until the tip wears enough off to come out safely. I have done this on a GP with minor swelling. Any small pieces left behind can be vacuumed out the injector hole......

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand. Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.
The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.
Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left(passenger) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side, front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

 

My experiance with 2 non working GP's is none work. Either all or none will work. My understanding is that is the way the system is setup. I have heard of other owners having the same problem in that if 1 or more don't work the engine will turn over but not start without cranking and cranking and over working the starter. It's cheaper to replace the bad GP's.

 

The glow plug controller will probably short cycle the glow plugs with two burnt out.

 

A friend posted this way back when..........

If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
By........DieselDon

Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use antisieze on the threads.