Okay...I have been through this before with my 48 but figure there has to be an easier way.....

Both the 1948 that I have restored and my newly purchased 56 have the rear fenders spot welded onto the bed sides. How do I get these bolts and nuts out of there? I hate torquing on the bolt and breaking it, then I have to use a punch and punch each head in three spots to release the spot weld. How does anyone else accomplish this task? I am posting this in this an in the 56 forum to try to get some answers....

I have already tried rust remover etc... they never seem to work.

 

I just lubed them up, let her sit for a day or so, and power ratcheted them off. I did break a couple (2) of them off however. This way worked good for me, but we all know how rusted bolts are to deal with. Good luck.

 

My real passion is my antique tractors, and on those beasts, rusted nuts and bolts are an everyday occurence. Your best bet is to use heat, if you have an acetylene torch and can heat either the head of the bolt or the nut. The bolt is better, as the heat will expand the bolt, then when it cools it will be looser. In addition, you can apply some paraffin wax while it's still hot, the wax will draw into the threads and help loosen them. If you don't have a torch, the best penetrant I've found is PB Blaster, available at NAPA, or Kroil, from Kano Labs. Apply the penetrant, rap on the bolt a couple times, and let it sit, patience is your best friend here. You might have to wait a day or so for the penetrant to act. I've worked on a rusted bolt for two weeks on more than one occasion.

 

Is a standard propane torch up to the task or is the acetylene the way to go?




Keep 'er between the ditches.

 

A few days ago someone said beer helped them, I know from experience that after kicking back a few it won't mater how many bolts break as long as they come off.

 

Tedster

A good "poor boy" acetylene torch can be made by using MAPP gas cylinders. Propane torch needs to be decent and really put out the fuel. It will definitely cherry large nuts. Standard propane won't usually cherry too well. Back to the question at hand. If you use heat to remove bolts from rear fenders or any sheetmetal, the risk of warpage of sheet metal is very high. I had to break off a few and grind the heads off inside the bed with a grinder. Fairly time consuming method for sure.

Good Luck
Dewayne

 

I see.. I was wondering about standard hardware store propane torch, the bolt has to be cherry red to really do the job, then...?



Keep 'er between the ditches.

 

The only problem with a torch is that you have to be real careful not to burn something that shouldn't be. When working with running boards and I am coming up from below...those braces are aweful close and it is easy to damage one of them .Coming from above the running board...I would go for it unless I want to keep the running board.

I ended up using PB Blaster on the bolts around the fender. I have to admit they worked great and the bolt being spotwelded on the inside of the bed kept it in place while I screwed off the nut.

now the running boards are another problem. Nothing from keeping that bolt head from spinning as I try to remove the nut. Any suggestions that will allow me to get bolt off and keep my running boards? Thanks for all the great information so far.

 

Any reason why you can't remove the running board brackets at the frame and remove as an assembly. If you flip the boards over you should be able to get them off with a torch. Only other way is probably drill the heads of the carriage bolts. I'd use the torch. The brackets are pretty stout and could be fixed if you get them a little warm. The brackets are heavy enough to MIG easily if needed.

Regarding the propane question from Tedster. Standard propane just doesn't get it hot enough for a real stubborn bolt. Try the MAPP gas. It's cheap and works.

Dewayne

 

Great idea with removing the entire bracket. I looked and the 1/2 inch nut (Everything on these trucks are 1/2 inch) can be taken off pretty easy since bolt is square headed rather then flat and round. Nice going..jim

 

"PB Blaster" worked very well for taking the nuts off . Didn't break any bolts, and I don't think the rear fenders had ever been off before.

 

On my '56, the rear fender nuts were rusted to the point where there weren't flats left on a number of them. It was pretty easy to just cut 'em off with my dremel and/or grinder. After reading this thread, I'm wondering if I did a bad thing??? I found a couple of sources for the bolts so I can just replace the bolts, right? I guess what I'm asking is - what's the reason we shouldn't cut the little nippers off and replace 'em?

George