Question on pyrometer gauge ?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: ontario, canada
i used the infared camera at my work and it showed about 240 degrees difference between manifold and turbo outlet. this was holding the truck at 1800rpm in park with the truck at operating temperature
Former Vendor
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by BPofMD
How many probes have "broken off" and went into the turbine? Does anyone know of any? Not hearsay, but does anyone really know? If so, what damage was done. Thanks.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for all the input, it's great! Hadn't considered possible turbo damage if probe breaks up. Does anyone know what the temp. difference would be before & after the turbo? And would it be consistent or variable with engine RPM, just a thought.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I've never heard of anyone breaking/melting/destroying a probe. I was just giving the two schools of thought. The EGT's can vary quite a bit. Just depends on how hard you're pushing your motor. I've seen as low as 400 cruising down the highway and as high as 1600+ when racing and that's with the stock intake BTW. Temps can come down very rapidly when you let off--I'm talking seconds here.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: ontario, canada
Originally Posted by concordpete
Does anyone know what the temp. difference would be before & after the turbo? And would it be consistent or variable with engine RPM, just a thought.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,196
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by concordpete
Thanks for all the input, it's great! Hadn't considered possible turbo damage if probe breaks up. Does anyone know what the temp. difference would be before & after the turbo? And would it be consistent or variable with engine RPM, just a thought.
The most accurate readings come from installing the temperature probe Pre-turbo. Easiest pre-turbo install is in the drivers side exhaust manifold. It can be installed in the passenger side manifold with a little more work (BTW the passenger side of the the engine tends to run hotter than the drivers side).
Hope this helps
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Originally Posted by blackhat620
Post-turbo temperatures vary from 200-600 degrees lower than pre-turbo temps, depending on engine load and rpm. It is not a constant rate, but variable. Average difference is about 400 degrees cooler on post turbo measurements. The worry of a temp probe breaking off and being ingested by the turbo is really an unfounded rumor.
The most accurate readings come from installing the temperature probe Pre-turbo. Easiest pre-turbo install is in the drivers side exhaust manifold. It can be installed in the passenger side manifold with a little more work (BTW the passenger side of the the engine tends to run hotter than the drivers side)ope this helps
The most accurate readings come from installing the temperature probe Pre-turbo. Easiest pre-turbo install is in the drivers side exhaust manifold. It can be installed in the passenger side manifold with a little more work (BTW the passenger side of the the engine tends to run hotter than the drivers side)ope this helps
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Originally Posted by mjlevi
listen.... drill and tap the manifold on the drivers side by the bend towards the rear of the engine, lots of room to work and it will work just fine !! as for the painting of the pillar, you will need to purchase a plastic adhesion promoter first, this will aid in the flexibilty for the final finish coat, a r eal simple job to do yourself...mine came out flawless!!
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[QUOTE=raptor131]i used the duplicolor vinyl paint. <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=pth>Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric Paint: High Performance; Red; Aerosol with the EZ Touch® Fanspray® Nozzle!; 11 oz.</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right rowSpan=3>
</TD></TR><TR><TD height=3>
</TD></TR><TR><TD>Part Number: HVP100
click here and type "vinyl paint" in the search field of the
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3281&mfrcode=DPL&m frpartnumber=HVP109
Thanks for the info on paint, I'll check n it tommorow.I have the tan interior, shouldn't be a problem though.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
it adhered perfectly, my interior is grey so i know they carry this color but not sure of others and it turned out perfect not sure if it is intended for this type of plastic but it worked good. with a dull finish Thanks for info on paint I'll check on it tomorrow. I have the tan interior.
</TD></TR><TR><TD height=3></TD></TR><TR><TD>Part Number: HVP100click here and type "vinyl paint" in the search field of the
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3281&mfrcode=DPL&m frpartnumber=HVP109
Thanks for the info on paint, I'll check n it tommorow.I have the tan interior, shouldn't be a problem though.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
it adhered perfectly, my interior is grey so i know they carry this color but not sure of others and it turned out perfect not sure if it is intended for this type of plastic but it worked good. with a dull finish Thanks for info on paint I'll check on it tomorrow. I have the tan interior.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: FL
Originally Posted by mjlevi
listen.... drill and tap the manifold on the drivers side by the bend towards the rear of the engine, lots of room to work and it will work just fine !! as for the painting of the pillar, you will need to purchase a plastic adhesion promoter first, this will aid in the flexibilty for the final finish coat, a real simple job to do yourself...mine came out flawless!!
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Yes--just grease your bit and it will get most of the "big" shavings out. It's more of a pain to remove the manifold than to do it on the truck. Also, if it's a little more in the bottom, as you'll probably be more on the underside anyway, then gravity will help and a magnet if you have one. The big chips will be augered to the outside anyway by the drill bit and the shavings from the tap are virtually nothing.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: FL
Originally Posted by npccpartsman
Yes--just grease your bit and it will get most of the "big" shavings out. It's more of a pain to remove the manifold than to do it on the truck. Also, if it's a little more in the bottom, as you'll probably be more on the underside anyway, then gravity will help and a magnet if you have one. The big chips will be augered to the outside anyway by the drill bit and the shavings from the tap are virtually nothing.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: All Over
I drill dry using the following method.
- Drill with your engine running at idle
- Start with a small pilot hole and move up one bit at a time until you reach 21/64" or .339 (Type R)
With your engine at idle it will blow all the shavings back towards you. Starting with a small bit and moving up one at a time will keep the shavings very small. The key is drilling slow and backing out every so often during the process (before you break through) to allow all the shavings to blow out. Ensure that you have the correct angle of approach and the bit centered in the hole for each pass. This will prevent the bit from binding. If you feel the bit binding just back out and do it again.
You will not break a drill bit off in your manifold unless you have a Monkey drilling it for you.
- Drill with your engine running at idle
- Start with a small pilot hole and move up one bit at a time until you reach 21/64" or .339 (Type R)
With your engine at idle it will blow all the shavings back towards you. Starting with a small bit and moving up one at a time will keep the shavings very small. The key is drilling slow and backing out every so often during the process (before you break through) to allow all the shavings to blow out. Ensure that you have the correct angle of approach and the bit centered in the hole for each pass. This will prevent the bit from binding. If you feel the bit binding just back out and do it again.
You will not break a drill bit off in your manifold unless you have a Monkey drilling it for you.