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Well, since my privileges have been disabled to do a search for this topic on this form/site, I have to post the question. I remember reading about using electronics for removing rust from gas tank. As I remember this involves using a low voltage charger, positive to the tank metal and placing a electrode into the tank (at the gas cap fill) filled with water. My guess is using a nail insulating it from the tank. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Monte
The easy way is to put in a couple gallons of warm water, a handfull of large nuts and/or a section of tow chain, and some strong detergent such as Tide, automatic dishwasher soap, or TSP. cap the tank and shake vigorously. Rinse with warm water and repeat until rinse water comes out clean. Finally rinse with hot water, empty out nuts and chain, shake out all water and place in sun or in front of heat source to dry.
Coat dry inside with gas tank slushing compound and allow to dry. Be sure pickup tube is clear. Paint outside with gasoline resistant paint and install. Nice weekend project, especially if you can recruit some neighborhood kids to do the washout shaking (the Tom Sawyer ploy!).
Your going to think this is crazy but it will make the inside of a tank shine like a new nickle. I did it on a B model John Deer i had. Works wonders. Put a gallon of acid like you use in a swimming pool in the tank. put the cap on it shake it a couple of times take off the cap and let it set about an hour or so pour the acid back in the jug rinse out the tank with water let it dry out. It will be rust free. Then take the jug to a waist center to get rid of it. Works great just don't breath the fumes while your doing this.
Yes Rusty, i did that, not with full strength though. It did remove quite a bit, however, there is still some on rust on the sides of the tank. I have heard that it was not good for the metal. but if you do use "muratic acid", you need to neutralize it with a mixture of water and baking soda. Thanks for this input!
The easy way is to put in a couple gallons of warm water, a handfull of large nuts and/or a section of tow chain, and some strong detergent such as Tide, automatic dishwasher soap, or TSP. cap the tank and shake vigorously. Rinse with warm water and repeat until rinse water comes out clean. Finally rinse with hot water, empty out nuts and chain, shake out all water and place in sun or in front of heat source to dry.
Coat dry inside with gas tank slushing compound and allow to dry. Be sure pickup tube is clear. Paint outside with gasoline resistant paint and install. Nice weekend project, especially if you can recruit some neighborhood kids to do the washout shaking (the Tom Sawyer ploy!).
Very inventive, but I think it would be fun to rig a PTO onto the the crank or even onto a rear wheel with a huge counter weight and let your truck do the shaking.....but then said truck won't be running long without the gas tank, will it? I think this needs more exploration and more frosty beverages.
A MUCH safer acid wash is sodium acid sulfate powder in water. It is also found in the swimming pool chemicals common labled as "ph down". Add a cup full to 5 gal of cold water. It will still eat thru the steel if left too long. I prefer the chain wash method, won't damage the tank and only requires 2 or 3 rinses. Easy way to slosh tank if doing it yourself is to strap in into a wheelbarrow and shake it all around.
Electrolysis is a great cleaning method and it is very safe if you do it right. I use it all the time to strip rust, grime, paint and oxidation from steel, cast iron and brass. Do some research on the web first. To do a gas tank fill the tank with the water / wahsing soda solution and prop it so ALL the bubbles come out the fill tube. Use thin strips of steel or wire inserted into the core of some woven nylon rope for your anode. (Do not use stainless steel as an anode) The rope will serve as an insulator. I would try to get a piece at least two feet long coilled in the tank. Hook it to a battery charger and let it sit for about two or three days. You will still need to the shake thing to clean out the loose rust but it will take a few minutes not hours. It is IMPORTANT that the bubbles come out of and not collect it the tank. Electrolysis produces hydrogen gas. If it fills a pocket in the tank and a spark from the charger sets it off it could do some real damage. Turn the charger off before removing the anode. Do this outside or in a building with some ventilation. Danny
Thanks, for the idea's guys. I started cleaning the tank last week. Not all of the rust was removed (Note - I did use chain and nuts shaking the tank, however, I did not shake it all day!). The tank was dried and is now in air conditining to avoid moisture. I plan on wokring on it again this weekend. I will post the results next week. I did find one small hole on the side of the tank. I have a tank sealer I will use when I feel like the rust has been removed. The tank sealer should seal the "pin" hole. Any suggestions for prep on the exterior side of the tank for the "pin hole" prior to painting?
Pinholed gas tanks was a common problem in Buffalo where the salt would collect between the tank and the hanger straps, so we repaired a number of them. We would wash out the inside of the tank with soap and water, and fill the tank nearly full of water with the holes to be repaired at the top. We used an OX-Ac torch to braze over the holes. We brazed them rather than welding because the brass would flood over the surface and reinforce the area around the hole as well as bridge any small holes without worry of burning thru the steel. After brazing your tank, wash off any flux residue with hot water and a wire brush. Sand the brass lightly if desired, then go over the entire outside with 3M course surface prep disk (looks like brown plastic steel wool) wash with solvent and prime immediately with an epoxy primer. Paint with a catalized paint topcoat of your choice.
Should last longer than the truck.
I would have to vote for AX's method. I did the same with an old '53 Military gas tank. It worked great and left me with a rust free coating on the inside of the tank. As AX said, be sure to ensure the pickup tube does not plug-up with the sealant. Speaking from experience, it is a PIA.
The big advantage I see to this method is that you should not have a reoccurring rust problem. If you have rust now, and get rid of it, how do you keep it from returning? Apparently the OEM surface treatment is gone and the rust will return in short order. Adding the sealant to the tank prevents moisture from getting to the metal.
You can get kits to treat the tanks from several sources. I got mine at a local bike shop (2 kits).
I use electrolysis all the time on old iron, mostly stationary engines and antique tools. Works great! I have never tried it on a fuel tank.... Interesting idea.
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