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I'm having start problems with my 2001 diesel F-250. This is a pretty standard problem, and I tried to search old threads to recycle some advice, but decided to reach out on a new thread.
Start has been progressively failing, especially in chillier, damper weather. Checked batteries and the passenger side battery had one dead cell. I replaced both batteries, but the problem persists. Ignition cuts off before turnover. When I leave the driver side battery connected, but disconnect the passenger side battery, the starter turns over a few times, then quits. I have a '78 F-150, and can check the selenoid by jumping the starter connectors, but I'm not sure it is that easy on the F-250. I just got the F-250 and haven't gathered up the Chiltons and Haynes manuals yet. I replaced the cam position sensor a month or two ago based on info from this site, and that helped the start problem for a while. Any input from the seasoned veterans?
I don't know about the diesels, but it's still an airpump. First things I would look at as well as electrical are fuel filter, water seperator, air filter, exhaust restrictions. If the normal stuff looks good, check your battery cables for corosion/loose connections/hot spots/cuts/ect. good luck.
Thanks ReAX! I was surprised at not being able to conduct a search for old advice on the same type of problem, and am now aware that the search function has been disabled on this forum. I scooped up a Haynes manual and a code reader today, so hopefully I'll be able to dig into the root of the problem. Thanks very much for your quick reply and advice!
You can use google to do a site search. In the search bar, type "site:ford-trucks.com" before your search terms. Google will only kick back results from ford-trucks.com
ReAX, that's an extremely useful piece of advice applicable to many situations! Man, thank you so much again for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Oaky, so I did the checks prescribed by ReAX. Then I topped off the battery cells with distilled water, then checked each cell with a hydrometer. All cells are good. I checked the starter draw on the battery and it drew the voltage from 12.6 to 9.7 which is okay. Then I checked the solenoid relay and it activated the starter circuit with no problem. Then I crawled under the truck, removed the starter and checked it on the bench. When I sent 12+ volts to the B+ terminal the pinion gear extended, but did not rotate. Haynes says if it does that the solenoid is okay, but the starter is messed up. Tomorrow the truck gets a remanufactured starter, and hopefully that'll fix it.
ReAx, I was surprised to see the Google box which has just appeared on the home page of this site. I tried to search the site using it, but was still denied. I tried the "site:ford-trucks.com" trick you suggested on a regular Google, and I haven't gotten it to work yet. I'll keep trying.
Thanks again ReAX for offering up some sage advice.
Hey ReAX! Even better... I couldn't get my search to be site specific with any configuration on the standard Google search so I clicked on the "advanced search" option and it gives you a block to specify the domain to be searched. I put in ford-trucks.com and that took care of it. The advanced search also allows you to stipulate a range of numbers which have to be included on the page, and I put in 1999-2001 to narrow it down even further to my truck. The domain limit worked great, but I'm not sure I was successful in limiting the info to the 1999-2001 year range. Man, I have learned alot due to your advice! Thanks!
By the way, on this start problem, I replaced the starter, and when I reattached the negative terminal on either battery the new starter wants to start. I appreciate its enthusiasm, but I'm a little frustrated. Maybe my solenoid relay on the fenderwall is stuck...
For anyone replacing the starter, be careful not to let the unusually configured battery connectors for the starter make contact with the connector bracket for the starter relay lead. It's easy to do when you can't see the connectors when the starter is in place. I connected them before bolting the starter in because it's so hard to get to them otherwise. The first time I wasn't careful enough, and the hot battery lead put a constant activation voltage on the starter solenoid, and it wanted to start as soon as the battery negative cables were reconnected. Also the battery terminal on the starter is relatively delicate so don't crank down or the plastic will break. Loctite might be good to keep the nuts secure rather than using brute force. Also, ALWAYS remove the negative cables on both batteries before working on anything in the starter circuit.