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Oil Temp Gauge

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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:58 PM
  #1  
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Oil Temp Gauge

Has anyone found a location to screw in a temp bulb for an aftermarket Oil Temp Gauge OTHER THAN welding a bung into the oil pan?

I installed mine by threading a hole in top of oil filter last spring and it worked great - until- cold weather moved in and with it sticking up out of the filter, the cold air must cool it so much that it acts as a oil cooler as well as a temp source. I can't get the oil temp up much more than 140, which is bottom of gauge. The oil pan is much hotter.

If there is no other place than welding the bung into the oil pan, have you had to REMOVE the pan to weld it in? Can I drop it enough to weld one in WITHOUT removing it? My son is a welder and says he would hate to weld blind. And to drill into the pan without seeing what was behind the drill hole scares him (me too).

I'm up for ANY recommendations at this point.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
Has anyone found a location to screw in a temp bulb for an aftermarket Oil Temp Gauge OTHER THAN welding a bung into the oil pan?

I installed mine by threading a hole in top of oil filter last spring and it worked great - until- cold weather moved in and with it sticking up out of the filter, the cold air must cool it so much that it acts as a oil cooler as well as a temp source. I can't get the oil temp up much more than 140, which is bottom of gauge. The oil pan is much hotter.

If there is no other place than welding the bung into the oil pan, have you had to REMOVE the pan to weld it in? Can I drop it enough to weld one in WITHOUT removing it? My son is a welder and says he would hate to weld blind. And to drill into the pan without seeing what was behind the drill hole scares him (me too).

I'm up for ANY recommendations at this point.
Drilling the pan and welding a bung shouldn't be an problem without even unbolting the pan, however I would try to recover as many chips as possible with a magnet...use a greased drill bit when drilling, clean the pan with a magnet (I would recommend drilling directly in the bottom near the drain plug, that will make it easier to recover all of the metal) and weld it in. Any other location would require drilling and tapping the engine block, which I probably wouldn't recommend for a truck under warranty.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Bottom is NOT feasible as the probe would stick out much too far...much further than a Fumoto valve. Not to mention a loose wire attached to that!

Anyone else out there got one welded on? What location in the pan did you put it? And did you drop the pan to weld it...or not?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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Wow, I can't believe that I'm the only one here wanting to watch oil temp!!!??? No one else has used an aftermarket oil temp gauge?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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Probably not the only one, but most everyone I know of, myself included, has just bought an aluminum cap from Oilguard already threaded and tapped for 1/8th NPT. I've never had an issue with the temp sending unit getting reduced signals from there, even in 15~ ambient air temp it will still float between 180 and 200.

Take a good close second look at the wiring and the sending unit itself....given the quantity of oil that passes by I dont see where it would be feasbile that air is cooling the housing and oil passing by the filter...nor have I ever seen or heard of the problem myself.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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I couldn't find a wiring problem, but I WILL look again tomorrow now. What made me think it was being cooled too much was that I can touch it, put my hand around the fitting and it just wasn't nearly as hot as the oil pan felt.

Thanks for the reply.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
I couldn't find a wiring problem, but I WILL look again tomorrow now. What made me think it was being cooled too much was that I can touch it, put my hand around the fitting and it just wasn't nearly as hot as the oil pan felt.

Thanks for the reply.
That may be a result of the plastic cap...I've never tried the plastic cap, have always used aluminum. You may want to try one first before relocating it.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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No matter what I find, I have a new (FoMoCo) cap on the way to me. At least I'll have it if I ever need it. I'll be looking at it today...supposed to be near 70 so a great time for a look see, wash and wax day!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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OK...no problem with the present install, but it still does take a LONG time for heat to come up. As it's about 70 degrees today, driving about 15 miles the temp came up to about 145-150. I would assume driving more would bring it up to operating temperature. This summer and fall, while towing , temps were averaging abot 180-185 and just staying there. Even without towing, after about 20-25 miles, the temp would come up to close to the same as towing - 180-185. I'll just have to watch it next time I drive it on a cold day.

I'm sure it takes a while to heat all that oil that the 6.0 carries and I'm sure that the OEM water temp gauge is as accuate as the tranny temp gauge. One second you look at it, it's cold, 40 breaths later, it's up to normal. Those gauges are about as informational as the old idiot lights!

I will return.....and I'd still like to hear from anyone that's welded in a bung on/in their oil pan. Thanks for listening....
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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does the sending unit need to be installed into an electrically conductive material? could the plastic cap maybe your problem it may be acting as a heat insulator keeping the haet from the snder itself. im not familiar with the oil temp sender does it have two wires or one? otherwise i agree you may have a high resistance open in your sender wires. or the sender just may have gone south. just some ideas
 
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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It only has ONE wire, but it MUST be getting a ground SOMEWHERE as it's working. I guess I could attach a ground wire to the outside of the 2" pipe coupler I have on top of the filter to house the temp bulb as it's too big to fit inside the filter. It hits the spring inside the filter without the 2" pipe there. I also figured that that 2" coupler would make a nice reservoir for the probe. Thing is, if it wasn't working electrically the way it is, why does it work fine in the summer?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 07:03 AM
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Question ?????

And why is Oil Temp so important to you? Of all the guages you can install I'm wondering why you chose this one?
  • Boost I get
  • Tranny Temp I get
  • Pyro I get
  • Volt meter I get
  • Oil Presure on dash
  • H2O temp on dash
  • So why Oil Temp?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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'cuz there ain't one in the dash. There IS a boost gauge, there IS a ampmeter. No pyro, got one in my pod, Tranny temp is in the dash, but I tow, so wanted to see the temp, not indicator. Satisfied? Everyone has there own thing going....that's MY thang.......
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
It only has ONE wire, but it MUST be getting a ground SOMEWHERE as it's working. I guess I could attach a ground wire to the outside of the 2" pipe coupler I have on top of the filter to house the temp bulb as it's too big to fit inside the filter. It hits the spring inside the filter without the 2" pipe there. I also figured that that 2" coupler would make a nice reservoir for the probe. Thing is, if it wasn't working electrically the way it is, why does it work fine in the summer?
It may not need the ground. it was just an idea. as most of your sending units are installed into the engine block or some othe type of metal.
what is the max temp on your gauge?
and what is the hottest it has ever gotten?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 04:57 PM
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Max on the gauge is 350, highest I've seen is less than 190 - about 185. Highest since cooler weather set in (last time I drive it more than 15 miles was 45) it never got above 145...if that. Barely off the low peg.
 
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