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I hope Ford engineers decide to pull their heads out of their *&#* and come up with a design that will actually work. Have any of you had these things fail. It cost me $1400 the last and only time I had it done. The only answer they give you is to engage them monthly to keep the seals lubricated. If the truck had not only had 38,000 miles on it I wouldn't have done it. Why doesn't anyone make an aftermarket replacement, (automatic), with out plastic parts in it?
There's a bad batch every now and then, waterboy_fishing. Sorry to hear about your troubles. Still, I can't imagine why it would cost $1400 - YIKES. What happened - did they cause other failures?
I don't know what year model you have, but my '99 model still has the original hubs, and they still lock when I want them to.
Some folks replace the AUTO hubs with the manual version. Seem to like it that way.
The issue seems to be with the seals drying and creating a vacuum leak. I've talked to my local Ford mechanic and he did not give me the impression they were designed very well. My dad has a 2000 F-250 with the hubs out, my friend had his replaced about 8 months ago, and mine last January. The hubs are about $450 apiece plus labor.
That is the sealed unit wheel bearing that your are describing not just the hub. And yes you can get those from some of your parts stores a lot cheaper....dont know about better though. For the $1400 I would have bought the dynatrac kit that replaces all that and gives you warn premium manual hubs for $1600 then you install. If bearing fail again just the bearing itself needs replacing.
To my knowledge nothing was said about bearings. Just that the hubs were leaking. Do the dynatrac kits and warn hubs replace the auto hubs or will I have to get out and lock them in?
As far as I know.....ford is the only one that makes the auto hubs for these trucks.....but most of us would prefer the manual locks of Warn, Superwinch or others over the factory auto things. At least we know they are locked when we need them. Cant wait to get some manual locking hubs.
Go to this page of dynatrac to see what all is included.
Do the hubs not have a "manual lock" also ?
mine does so if you shift on the fly and your hubs don't lock in then you just get out and lock them manually. I have an 01 F350 with auto hubs.
Mine also. I believe there is more wear on the hubs if they are locked in all the time. Even when you shift out of 4-wheel. The on-the-fly will just disengage the transfer case if the hubs are locked in manually, correct?
THe ESOF when turned on will engage the transfer case servo as well as pnuematically (vacuum) actuate the hubs. If you keep the hubs locked just to avoid having to get out and lock them when you need to, one of two things will happen. (1) you'll be lucky to only increase wheel wear, or (2) you may break something (i.e. axle) because the front axle is a locker with no differential.
What is it that failed or broke? My 2001 quit engaging and all it turned out was me replacing the vacuum hoses on both sides ($2.50). If you have a leak, the only place it will leak on the hub is the o-ring, which can be purchased from the dealer ($?). I must admit, turning the manual lock is very hard due to the spring being compressed. Ford could have made it easier to turn.
Mongo, if and when you just touch the vacuum hose and you get black gunk on your hands, then most likely the hose is shot and needs to be replaced. You won't see any cracks, but the inside of the hose deteriorates over time and clogs.