dragging brake
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From: Maine
dragging brake
The right front brake on my '97 Ranger 4x2 is dragging a little bit. I took the caliper off, and the hub spun freely, so I figured I'd start by greasing the slide pins. Went down to NAPA, and found some "Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease" in a little plastic tube, that the guy behind the counter said he figured was my best bet. Pulled the pins out, cleaned them with WD-40 (all I had), and regreased them lightly- still dragging.
Before I take it somewhere (I really can't replace a caliper or flex hose here, with the tools I have), I just want to make sure I wasn't missing anything with the slide pins. One was slightly rusted and pitted, and both had three flats milled onto them. The grease I bought was "stickier" than I'd have guessed; I was expecting something along the lines of white lithium grease. The pins seemed to slide pretty freely, but the rubber boot on the bottom one seemed to grab a touch; I can't really describe it but it felt a little funny. I had no idea what to do about the three flats, I just put the pins back in.
So, is it worth my time monkeying around with these pins anymore, or should I just throw in the towel and take the truck somewhere?
Thanks!
Before I take it somewhere (I really can't replace a caliper or flex hose here, with the tools I have), I just want to make sure I wasn't missing anything with the slide pins. One was slightly rusted and pitted, and both had three flats milled onto them. The grease I bought was "stickier" than I'd have guessed; I was expecting something along the lines of white lithium grease. The pins seemed to slide pretty freely, but the rubber boot on the bottom one seemed to grab a touch; I can't really describe it but it felt a little funny. I had no idea what to do about the three flats, I just put the pins back in.
So, is it worth my time monkeying around with these pins anymore, or should I just throw in the towel and take the truck somewhere?
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 123
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From: Central Jersey
Why not replace the pins? That may cure it. The other things to check are rotor runout (do you get a vibration when you apply the brakes), anchor position and tire angle, meaning are they the specified tire size for the vehicle (caster and camber). Also check the pads for wear. Make sure the entire pad is worn in. If not, the pads may be sitting at an angle. My 94 had similar problems on the driver side, so I ended up replacing the caliper.
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From: Maine
I replaced the pins this morning, with new ones from NAPA. It may be marginally better, but certainly not fixed, and maybe not any better.
Pads looked good, and the rotors are fine.
The three flats milled on the pins still confuse me, though. My guess, and that of the counterman at NAPA was that they would keep the pin from rotating when I put the bolt in, but the pins seemed to rotate freely in their holes. I doubt this is the problem, but I am curious about it.
I'm becoming fairly certain that the problem isn't with the pins, I guess I'll have to take it to a shop and let them deal with it.
Pads looked good, and the rotors are fine.
The three flats milled on the pins still confuse me, though. My guess, and that of the counterman at NAPA was that they would keep the pin from rotating when I put the bolt in, but the pins seemed to rotate freely in their holes. I doubt this is the problem, but I am curious about it.
I'm becoming fairly certain that the problem isn't with the pins, I guess I'll have to take it to a shop and let them deal with it.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 527
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From: Streamwood,IL
How about the caliper itself? Does the piston go back in easily. If not, this may be your problem. Take an old pad (if you have one) and try to push the piston back in SLOWLY with a c-clamp(loosen, but do not remove the cap from fluid resevoir) If there is resistance, you have a bad caliper, of which you have 3 choices...replace it, rebuld it yourself(kit available), or just keep driving it the way it is....hope it works out for you. GOOD LUCK!!! P.S. Don't forget to put the cap back on....
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From: Maine
I suspect it is the caliper, or perhaps the flex hose. I replaced that caliper a year or so ago with an Autozone rebuilt one (didn't solve that problem, either...), but I'm at college now and I don't want to get into replacing either of those parts in a parking lot without the right tools.
I don't want to keep driving it as-is, it pulls a bit, and makes some noise, and I'd rather not fry the rotor or pad.
Thanks for the tips!
I don't want to keep driving it as-is, it pulls a bit, and makes some noise, and I'd rather not fry the rotor or pad.
Thanks for the tips!
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Buckeye Country
Is the other side engaging properly, or is all the braking force being applied to the right side maybe? Try testing it on a gravel road or drive to see if as light braking as possible to lock up a wheel leaves two skid marks.
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Posting Guru
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From: Maine
Braking feels pretty normal, and hard braking on asphalt is pretty straight. It pulls to the right in regular driving, though. I jacked up the front end, and the left wheel spins freely but the right has a bit of drag. When I took the caliper off, the hub and rotor spun freely, so I'm pretty sure that it's the right side not releasing.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eastern WA
Sounds like you need a rebuilt caliper due to rust on the bore. Give the entire system a good flush while you are at it to expell years of condensation out of there and prolong the life of components.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Tucson USA
Just buy some new calipers less than $20 each at checkers. I had to replace mine due to a sticking piston and also had to redo some new rotors. A rebuild kit was like $15, rebuilt calipers were just under $20. Only need 1 wrench to take the line off at the caliper, a flare wrench would be the best but an open end will work.
Just be sure to fill the caliper prior to install, then it takes less effort to top off at the resevoir.
Just be sure to fill the caliper prior to install, then it takes less effort to top off at the resevoir.
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From: Maine
Yeah, I can install the caliper easily enough, it's getting it bled that worries me.
Anyone know of a good one-man brake bleeder that won't cost me an arm and a leg? I hate dealing with brakes, because of the consequences of screwing up, but I also hate paying someone to do something I can do myself without any trouble.
I've got to get my snow tires mounted soon, too, so maybe I'll get a price quote on replacing the caliper and make my decision from there.
Thanks for the help, guys.
Anyone know of a good one-man brake bleeder that won't cost me an arm and a leg? I hate dealing with brakes, because of the consequences of screwing up, but I also hate paying someone to do something I can do myself without any trouble.
I've got to get my snow tires mounted soon, too, so maybe I'll get a price quote on replacing the caliper and make my decision from there.
Thanks for the help, guys.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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90% of the time you can gravity bleed it... install your caliper... top off your master cylinder and leave the cap off...
loosen the bleeder screw and wait.. wait.. wait.. (sometimes it takes several minutes) for fluid to trickle out.. then close the bleeder... pump the brakes several times.. repeat... after the 2nd or third time you should get all the air out of it.
Good luck
loosen the bleeder screw and wait.. wait.. wait.. (sometimes it takes several minutes) for fluid to trickle out.. then close the bleeder... pump the brakes several times.. repeat... after the 2nd or third time you should get all the air out of it.
Good luck