Cam sensor?? or what else?
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Cam sensor?? or what else?
Hey guys... i just got a 4" inch exhaust put in yesterday... soon after that a 'service engine soon' came up.. didnt pay much attention...
later that day i stoped at car place to get a read out on the computer, nothing camer up but the truck refused to start again.. It cranked but just wouldnt start.
TWO things i noticed:
1) The "wait" light didnt came up
2) Tach was not registering a thing..
SO, i though that most likely it was the cam sensor... to day i replaced it with the blue international one..
Same exact result as before... only cranks, no wait light nor tach movement..
Any other ideas?? anyone???
edit: Truck: 2000 F350 6spd
later that day i stoped at car place to get a read out on the computer, nothing camer up but the truck refused to start again.. It cranked but just wouldnt start.
TWO things i noticed:
1) The "wait" light didnt came up
2) Tach was not registering a thing..
SO, i though that most likely it was the cam sensor... to day i replaced it with the blue international one..
Same exact result as before... only cranks, no wait light nor tach movement..
Any other ideas?? anyone???
edit: Truck: 2000 F350 6spd
Last edited by kamaleon; Oct 31, 2006 at 12:08 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
probably your fuel heater shorted out which blew the fuse for the heater and the pcm. I doubt the CEL is related but could be. I forget which fuse it is but if it is blown then unhook fuel heater and replace the fuse and you should fire up. maybe somebody can tell you more specific info cause I can't remember the fuse number or which connector on the fuel bowl is the heater.
Post Fiend
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
fuel heater is in fuel filter housing. I believe that the connector for it is one the driver side single wire at the bottom of the housing.
pcm yes computer. i believe the fuse is #22. check all your fuses under dash and engine compartment fuses.
pcm yes computer. i believe the fuse is #22. check all your fuses under dash and engine compartment fuses.
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I agree w/ what tj is saying... when the WTS light doesn't come on, it usually means the fuel heater/pcm fuse blew due to a shorted fuel heater. However, I think the fuse might be #30, and I think it's in the panel under the steering wheel by your knees.
And yes, check in the owners manual, it'll let you know what each fuse protects.
If you find that the fuel heater/pcm fuse is the culprit, you should unplug the fuel heater so it doesn't short and blow the new fuse all over again.
And yes, check in the owners manual, it'll let you know what each fuse protects.
If you find that the fuel heater/pcm fuse is the culprit, you should unplug the fuel heater so it doesn't short and blow the new fuse all over again.
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just changed the #16 fuse and nothing changed..
unpluged the diesel heater element... nothing changed..
Opened the fuel filter.. there is fuel there alright, when i put the cap back there was more fuel than when i took it out.
I unpluged the batteries to reset the computer while they are beign charged since they got weaker after every failed crank..
edit: I pulled out and inspected every fuse in the cab (drivers knee area) and in the engine bay.. only fuse blown was #16... dotn know what it protects yet.
unpluged the diesel heater element... nothing changed..
Opened the fuel filter.. there is fuel there alright, when i put the cap back there was more fuel than when i took it out.
I unpluged the batteries to reset the computer while they are beign charged since they got weaker after every failed crank..
edit: I pulled out and inspected every fuse in the cab (drivers knee area) and in the engine bay.. only fuse blown was #16... dotn know what it protects yet.
Last edited by kamaleon; Oct 31, 2006 at 05:05 PM.
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According to the owners manual, fuse 16 is for the instrument cluster and hi-beam headlamps.
I think you should check fuse 30 down there, which protects:
PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline
only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate
Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver
Module Relay Coil (Diesel only)
It wouldn't hurt to pull it out and check it w/ a tester for continuity... could be that it's not passing current, even though it doesn't appear to be blown.
After that, check again and let us know if the WTS light is still not illuminating at all.
I think you should check fuse 30 down there, which protects:
PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline
only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate
Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver
Module Relay Coil (Diesel only)
It wouldn't hurt to pull it out and check it w/ a tester for continuity... could be that it's not passing current, even though it doesn't appear to be blown.
After that, check again and let us know if the WTS light is still not illuminating at all.
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oil level is a tad lower than teh full mark due to the incline..
when i turn the key i dont hear the pump come on..
In two ocations i heard what to me seems like an air pump very close the top/passanger fender..
Under the battery (driver side) there are two sounds about 3 or so seconds after the key is turned in the ON position.. bubblign air and then what it osunds to me a relay/solenoid that goes on and then off (one sicle)..
The withces decided to hunt my truck....
when i turn the key i dont hear the pump come on..
In two ocations i heard what to me seems like an air pump very close the top/passanger fender..
Under the battery (driver side) there are two sounds about 3 or so seconds after the key is turned in the ON position.. bubblign air and then what it osunds to me a relay/solenoid that goes on and then off (one sicle)..
The withces decided to hunt my truck....
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Originally Posted by ryaneverk2
According to the owners manual, fuse 16 is for the instrument cluster and hi-beam headlamps.
I think you should check fuse 30 down there, which protects:
PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline
only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate
Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver
Module Relay Coil (Diesel only)
It wouldn't hurt to pull it out and check it w/ a tester for continuity... could be that it's not passing current, even though it doesn't appear to be blown.
After that, check again and let us know if the WTS light is still not illuminating at all.
I think you should check fuse 30 down there, which protects:
PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline
only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate
Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver
Module Relay Coil (Diesel only)
It wouldn't hurt to pull it out and check it w/ a tester for continuity... could be that it's not passing current, even though it doesn't appear to be blown.
After that, check again and let us know if the WTS light is still not illuminating at all.
the #16 is kinda of wierd becuase instrument cluster lights are fine as well as low & high beams..
I'll check for continuity on that fuse #30, it didnt look blown
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One thing to note, crank it for a bit, and see if you see any white smoke. If you do see smoke, that would rule out the CPS or PCM or IPR, etc., and would probably mean glow plugs or gpr (but it may not be cold where you are now).
If you don't see smoke, then it means you're probably not getting fuel, so it could again be the CPS, PCM, fuel pump, Hpop...
I hope some other folks can help out w/ this; I know there are others who are better at this and have more experience than I do.
If you don't see smoke, then it means you're probably not getting fuel, so it could again be the CPS, PCM, fuel pump, Hpop...
I hope some other folks can help out w/ this; I know there are others who are better at this and have more experience than I do.
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Fuel pump does not Come on when key is in the on position. i put my had over it to feel any vibrations and noting, dead silent..
So, if there is no other fuse, relay or what not that would prevent the pump from turning on.. i think the pump is bad...
whould the pcm sense that the pump is bad and? lit the service engine soon light and turn off the WTS light?
I also noticed the tach registered 'once' some rpms (it went up then down) while on a long crank..
there is no smoke what so ever...
So, if there is no other fuse, relay or what not that would prevent the pump from turning on.. i think the pump is bad...
whould the pcm sense that the pump is bad and? lit the service engine soon light and turn off the WTS light?
I also noticed the tach registered 'once' some rpms (it went up then down) while on a long crank..
there is no smoke what so ever...
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Sounds like you're on the right track. I don't think the PCM will lite the SES light if the fuel pump is bad, but I'm not sure.
Before you replace the fuel pump, if you're there are no fuses that are bad, I would use a digital voltmeter and check to make sure the pump is getting power when you turn the key on. If it is, I'd think it's a bad pump, too.
However, are you still not getting a WTS light?? That is bothering me still...
Before you replace the fuel pump, if you're there are no fuses that are bad, I would use a digital voltmeter and check to make sure the pump is getting power when you turn the key on. If it is, I'd think it's a bad pump, too.
However, are you still not getting a WTS light?? That is bothering me still...