Hi,

I have a 1996 Exp Sport 4x4

Well, after fixing a 1442 code with a new gas cap, and a P0401 code by replacing the DPFE sensor and the EGR filter, I now get a P0304

So, that means the computer thinks there is a missfire on Cyl #4.

My question is, I have gotten these other codes all within 100 miles of driving - they have never all showed up together - one at a time!

is there an easy way to test this, after I replace the plug and wire? The engine seems to run ok - seems like a slight miss for the first 1/2 a minute when cold, but give it gas, and it's good to go usually -

What is the BEST injector cleaner on the market? I have a set of MC plugs and new MC wires that I will try - I was going to do this anyways, even though the previous owner said it was tuned up less than a year ago, but I'm sure it's not Motorcraft stuff in there...

Thanks,
Bob

 

Usually on fords, a misfire is caused by the coil (once the plug and wire is eliminated as suspect).

I've seen a few cases of plugged EGR ports causing a misfire, but never on the explorers. There IS a possibility of injector failure, but it's quite rare.

Try getting a multi-meter, unplugging all the injectors, and measuring the resistance of them all. If #4 is a much different resistance than the others, then yes that's probably your problem.. if not I would check into a coil.

Good luck

 

Thanks for that info - I think/Hope that it was a cracked insulator on the #4 plug, most likely from when whoever tuned it up last - The plug was wet - so I think the injector was fine - I replaced all the plugs, since I was going to do that anyways, and wires with MC stuff Plats... I cleared the CEL and it hasn't come back so far - runs alot better at idle too warm or cold - and colder start ups, runs much much better - so, I'm hoping this was 1/2 failing for a while, and the computer eventually detected a large enough miss that it tripped the 0304

So, now it's on to my 2 other small problems... front end slight clunk and an antifreese leak, which I think is at the Heater Control Valve - I guess these fail commonly on the explorers?

 

On your front end clunk... is it something you hear? or is it something you feel in the steering wheel.

Inner tie rod ends tend to dry up and cause a clunking feel in the steering wheel on bumps. Also could be a ball joint.. Good luck

 

Hi,

I can hear it and feel it - there is a touch of play in the wheel, but when I tried the front wheel movement test (jack them up, try wiggling them from side to side and up and down) they don't seem to move at all, but maybe they'd only do that on an outer tie rod end or ball joint...

the Passenger side was hit at one time I guess - but it was all fixed - at these the body looks good, don't know if they did anything to the suspension.

I can hear it clunk up and down - even just driving on smooth flat ground with some small imperfections in the road - almost sounds like a bushing is rubbing metal to metal, like the top of a shock, or something? it doesn't do it when I first drive the truck - only after about 20 miles or so...

The steering play was almost gone when I rotated the tires, but is now coming back little by little... it's about 1/2 inch of play. More noticable at higher speeds.

I'm just wondering where to start here... One thing I was going to anyways, was to flush the PS pump and rack... anyway to do this as a 1 person job? The pump, esp when colder, is louder than the engine at idle! that ford moan that they all make. I got some of that lubegard so, I will flush it all out, and then use a good PS fluid with this additive - should be quiet and operate much better. - But suspension wise, I just don't know... I need new shocks anyways, so I guess I can start there.

 

When the inner tie rod ends 'dry up' they don't have play.. they bind. They kind of freeze in place and the small imperfections in the road make them move up and down, causing them to "break free" from that bind... it causes more of a clunking than you'd think!

Now I'm assuming yours has the rack and pinion setup. You might popping the outer tie rod out of the knuckle... pull the inner boot back from the rack and spray a bunch of lubricant in there... then move the inner around and work that lube in.. that might fix it for awhile.. then reconnect the outer and put the boot back together and see what happens (you should be able to replace the inner boot clamp with a radiator clamp.. just make sure you feed it between the rack housing and the vent tube so you don't crush the tube).

If that isn't the problem then you need to go back to checking the basics.. ball joints.. control arm bushings.. wheel bearings.. Make sure you jack it up from under the lower control arm to check for ball joint play. Press in and out at the 12:00 position of the tire to see if the uppers have play.. and pry up from under the tire with a prybar to check the lowers (it's easier to have an assistant do the shaking/prying while you observe movement between the knuckle and the control arms from the front of the vehicle).

Now if this is the old gearbox setup with the I-beam suspension, then I'd be looking into radius arm bushings, if all else checks out.

Good luck

 

how hard are the inner tie rod ends to replace? Would a 96 have an older gearbox setup? I have outer tie rods - that much I know...

do you have links you could email me for a photo of the two types of suspensions? - Thanks for your help on this...

I just found out that my wife's sedan has a gas leak somewhere - left a good size spot on the drive way... can't see it dripping though - coming from the rear of the car - like rear of the tank, right in front of the axle - I hope it's something easy like a fitting for the fuel filter, or the filter itself - ever hear of leaking filters or fittings? or do GM cars have leaking gas tanks?

Thanks again - just trying to plug up as many holes as I can in this dam - do you have a link also for a crash course in rust repair on panels? seems tough to find good info on DIY rust repair... trying to save my Aerostar's rockers...

Bob