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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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302 c.i. Help

I have a 1990 with a EFI 5.0, and I want to do away with all the electronics and put a carbeurator on it. Which model-year intake manifold and distributor do I need to use...If it can even be done?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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Why would you want to swap from EFI to Carb? I've heard many say it's not worth the expense in dealing with the computer changes.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:39 PM
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All the electronics/computer are going to crap and it's getting too expensive to maintain. I plan on keeping it for a long time, so...the simpler the better.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Any thing none injected 86 down ought to work . Ive replace more carbs than fuely parts.Good luck
_________________________________________
94 F150 XLT 4x4 SC LB Maf 302 E4od
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 07:47 PM
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Are you old enough to remember carbs? EFI is the best thing that ever happen to engines IMO. With a code reader, vacuum testor and VOM and this web site you are all set for less than a hundred bucks of test equipment. EFI run so very much better than carbs and extend engine life. Just my opinion.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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Do you like adjusting carbs? getting decreased fuel mileage? and a decrease in Horsepower? if so then a 302 edelbrock manifold should work. If you don't like adjusting carbs, and like the more HP and more MPG, I suggest you learn how to fix this very primitive fuel injection setup. The early ford EFI setup is very simple and with a meter, vacuum gauge and jumper wire you're set to do anything. Also what transmission do you have? if it's an E4OD then it's gonna need to have a transmission swap to eliminate the computer. So go ahead and put a carb on it, but I wouldn't suggest it as a simpler setup.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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OK, first of all, I'm quite old enough to remember carbs and I happen to like them.

Secondly, this particular bronco is a friggin farm truck that hardly ever sees blacktop (yes, I said black top and not pavement or asphalt), so I really don't care about fuel economy and such.

Tertiarily (If you don't know what that means, it's the proper way of saying "Thirdly"), I spent 20 years operating and maintaining jet engines with electronics that would make the best auto mechanics heads spin. I already know what's wrong with the system (yes, I have a code reader, know how to read schematics, and how to use a jumper wire. I can even use a multi-meter!), and I know how much it's going to cost me to buy the parts to fix it. I also know how much it would cost me to get an intake and distributer from a salvage yard, and how much a decent 600 cfm carb will cost.

I'm not some snot nosed punk that can't find his butt with both hands and a road map. I already know what I want to do, and have justified to myself why.

I merely lacked a bit of model-year specific information on intake manifolds. Oh, one more thing, the transmission is an M5OD. I already knew there would be no problems with that part of the equation, but thanks for your concern.

So far I've gotten a "Good Maybe" on the 86 and older intake manifold. Thanks a bunch ya'll, you've been helpful.

Oh, and why would anyone want to put a carb on an LS1 or LS2 350? I'm not sure, but they damn sure sell the kits for it so there must be a reason!
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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Well, with all you know, I'm surprised you asked in the first place.

I think the new carbs are much easier to fool with. I'd go to the scrappy for the intake, but I'd splurge on a new carb so's to get the advantage of new this and that and it being all there etc.

Ifn's you are set on a 4bbl, ok, but keep in mind a Ford 2bbl of proper size (like the ones on 390s) will flow over 400 cfm and will run your 302 to 5000rpm or so, and them babies is dirt cheap or free, and for $25 you can rebuild them in the dark.

Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the 2bbl info and the well wishes 85e150six4mtod. I don't mind getting the inake and distributor from the scrap yard, but you're right about the carb. New is the only way to go.

swapping parts around on Fords can be a bit tricky sometimes (Not as interchangable as Chevy), that's why I wanted to make sure before I spent the time pulling one from salvage, pulling mine off, and then it not work.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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You're also going to have to put a fuel pressure regulator on that will decrease your pressure down to about 7psi for the carb.

BTW, your attitude kind of stinks. Lots of people ask this very same question, and 99% of them are "snot nosed brats" who just aren't familar with EFI systems and how easy and cheap they are to maintain.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 12:04 AM
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Yeah, fuel pressure would definetely be an issue you'll have to address. Holley makes a electric pump for carburated applications. You might unhook the stock pump and install one of the holley pumps. The holley pumps are a really nice setup and will offer the correct PSI. You could probably even wire it into your factory wiring. Many customers I have use them and love them. definetely go with a new carb. I don't believe they changed the deck height on the 302 so any carburated 302 manifold should work.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 05:03 AM
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Use a bypass regulator for the fuel to keep the fuel cool. One of the advantages of running EFI over most carb setups.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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I apologize for the skunky attitude andym. I guess I just let a couple of guys smart comments and assumptions that I'm a complete moron get under my skin. I understand that some "younger' folks make posts like this and haven't thought it through, and really do need some guidance. Maybe we all (including me) should take a breath or two and maybe scan the public profile before making hasty remarks.

Thanks again all for the value-added inputs
 
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Old Nov 6, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Distributor

Originally Posted by MountainRider
I have a 1990 with a EFI 5.0, and I want to do away with all the electronics and put a carbeurator on it. Which model-year intake manifold and distributor do I need to use...If it can even be done?
If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our D.U.I.-Davis Unified Ignition or our custom curved Duraspark distributor. Please see them at:


http://www.performancedistributors.com/forddui.htm

<O></O>
 
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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Except for the ignition, I prefer to go with aftermarket stuff. Any stock carb you find is going to at least about 20 years old. Stock intakes can be annoying. They have EGR crossovers and stuff and sometimes lack a PCV port. If you can find one with the matching spacer plate then things are a lot better. Without a plate you can run into dumb stuff like slapping the carb on a finding the throttle plates hit the manifold. Buy a generic spacer plate to cure that and you find it doesn't cover a stupid EGR port and you've got a big exhaust leak by the carb base. Then most aftermarket spacer don't have a place for the PCV hose. (Sound like I've been there?) The correct spacer plate may not even cure all you ills. The older the intake the easier it likely will be to make work. A 60's 289 intake works just fine on a 5.0 engine.
If you run a 2BBL setup, you'll likely have fewer problems. You can even use a dirt cheap 80's intake that was meant for throttle body injection (I've done it). Some of these are even aluminum from the factory. Good luck on finding a good used 2100 carb. You can easily rebuild one but after a bunch of miles they tend to leak around the throttle shafts. Perhaps someone has a fix for that? If not for that they are pretty darn good old carbs.
To minimize troubles I recommend something like a Weiand Stealth intake (what I used, but if you prefer a Holley, Edelbrock, whatever) and an Edelbrock carb. I'm not actually super fond of the Edelbrock carbs but they work fine and require about zero attention once installed. Reliable. You can save a dollar or two by opting to use a manual choke if you like. Exactly what I am using on my F100. I don't mind fiddling with carbs on the weekend but my old truck needs to work for a living. I've no interest in fiddling with it, I need it to go.
Ignition's easy. A complete Duraspark distributor and the box. Both from any parts store. A bit of wiring is needed, grab it from a junker or easily make your own with standard crimp connectors. You can use the coil you already have. There are a number of how to's for Duraspark swaps, the same stuff applies to upgrading antiques as to your "retrograde". A one wire hook-up. A second wire is recommended but optional. Your current computer set up you can ignore. My wife's car has had this setup in her car for 7 years now. The computer's been under the dash the whole time, not really connected to anything in particular for quite some time. I've never bothered to remove it. And Edelbrock and Duraspark setup for her completely bypassed entirely. I had a 2100 carb on her her car for a couple of years. When I finally got around to a 4BBL and intake swap we were suprised and pleased to have gained a couple of MPG's (except when I borrow it).
 
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