Bronco II Ford Bronco II

starting issue

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Old 10-30-2006, 01:31 PM
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starting issue

We recently picked up a 1988 Bronco II with 88 miles. Since the weather has been turning cooler, we have had some problems with getting it started. The engine cranks easily, but doesn't fire off as it did in the summer. We can start it 3-4 times and then it will start, sometimes the engine will start and then die, but on the next try it starts and runs fine. We did have a problem about two months ago where the engine would stumble and surge, especially going uphill. We changed the fuel filter on the frame and that problem appears to have gone away. I was planning on changing the plugs, cap, rotor and wires, but does this also point to a TFI module problem? Should I just replace the TFI module anyway? The wisdom on the forum seems to recommend this. Also what is this special tool that is need to change the TFI module and is it necessary for the change?
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Old 10-30-2006, 06:10 PM
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make sure the throttle body is clean. try another brand of gas
 
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Old 10-30-2006, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tchile
make sure the throttle body is clean. try another brand of gas
As you always should with a "new" used car.
The TFI tool is available at most parts stores for about $10. I believe it was a 5.5 mil 1/4 drive socket I used to change mine. Whether or not it is part of the problem, a fresh module is a good, low buck improvement.
AL.
 
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Old 10-30-2006, 07:18 PM
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for what a tfi module costs,i would replace it,it may not totally fix the problem. but they are known to go out,mine did about 4 months ago.i now keep a spare in the glove box.. it's my insurance!!
 
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Old 10-30-2006, 07:57 PM
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Throwing parts at problem?

Most all TFI problems are high heat related. If it starts the module is not likely the problem. Plus one thing many people overlook is the pick up coil in the distributor. I had one go bad and that requires distributor removal and re timing. Cold starting issues are fuel delivery related more often than not. I would suspect a sticking Idle air valve. This is the silver tube object hanging off the front of your intake plenum. Take it off and give it a good cleaning, then clean it again. Next I would check the TPS sensor. it should read under 1 volt at key on engine off position. If you have a manual it will describe how to perform this test. TFI's arn't that cheap, go for the cheap stuff first, good luck, ohh check your fuel pressure regulator too. It is back by the firewall. Pull the small vacume pipe off and if fuel comes out it is bad. good luck.

 
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Old 10-31-2006, 03:26 AM
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I was having a cold start problem with my Explorer and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator.It would start fine when warm but it would take 2 or 3 tries when cold.As soon as I put a fuel pressure gauge on it the problem became obvious, when I first turned on the key and cycled the pump the fuel pressure would only get to about 10 psi.If I turned the ignition on and off 2 or 3 times to cycle the pump without starting the truck the fuel pressure would climb to 25-30 psi and it would start fine.When I shut off the truck the regulator wouldn't hold any pressure and would drop to zero after about 15 min.
 
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:17 AM
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Thanks, I'll give that a try. I have cycled the pump once, but that produced no real change, but I'll try doing it 2-3 times before starting. I am still going to change the TFI, plugs, cap, rotor and wires but I would like to rule out the fuel system if possible.
 
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Old 10-31-2006, 12:02 PM
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Besides taking the vacume line off of the pressure regulator, is there a test port on the fuel rail/manifold? If there is a test port does it have a Schrader-type connection? If I need to change the pressure regulator, I assume that I will need to get a quick connection fitting tool to disconnect the fuel line (or if there isn't a test port)
Thanks.
 
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:21 PM
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you can get the fuel line removal tool at most local auto parts stores, before you take the lines loose,you can either release the fuel presure by using a small screwdriver and pushing in on the needle inside the shrader valve or by the inertia switch which is located inside under the glovebox at the floorboard where it meets the firewall. you may need to pull the carpet back just a little to get access to it. hope this helps
 




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