Yesterday, started the 03 PSD and went to town to fuel up and give it a wash job. Have mentioned this problem with all of you some time ago but had kinda forgot about it......untill you guess it, yesterday. Hear me out....temp was right at 70 degrees, truck had not been started for 6 days (which it ran fine the last time)...started to town and it would not accelerate because the exhaust was restricted because of the EBPV (I think this is the unit that resricts the exhaust) had closed it off. What would have caused it to do this at 70 degrees? Was somthing "stuck" or a computer glinch or just what? If it requires something to be replaced, it's still under warrenty but what do I ask for to be done to it at the dealership? I know they are suppose to act this way when it's cold but I'm sure they don't at 70 degrees! My 02 has never done this.

Give me some ideas of what to do and maybe a picture of where to look for the problem. Thankyou...trakman

 

Well, no matter what ambient temp is, the engine still isn't up to operating temperatures. Under the right throttle position and load, the EBPV will close whenever the engine isn't up to operating temp. Most of the time you see it in the cold, because the oil temp does not rise as fast.

 

That's not really true Kris. It's gotta be so cold before the EBV will actually come on and stay on - there's NO way it should be doing it under power at 70*'s.

BUT - every time you start the truck - the EBV does cycle momentarily. I bet it's sticking (mechanically) on you Trakman! That'd be my first thought. That happened to my buddy TWICE - which is the main reason we gutted his EBV... ALSO.. When I took off my EBV - you could easily get it to bind up just using light finger pressure to open and close it.

 

Ah, sorry i misread. I got the idea that he said it was closing as he was driving, and was wondering why it would close in those temps.

i guess i didn't pick up on the part that it was actually not releasing when he was trying to accelerate. under a certain backpressure number it will open, and your's didnt. In that case, i bet its sticking too.

 

OK....so what do I do to stop it from "sticking?"....and can someone post a pic where this handy andy gadget is? Thanks

 

I'll try to post a real pic later, but this should help:



Its right where your downpipe connects to the turbo.
Check to see if its binding. They occasionally do.
My comp is having issues so I'll try to post more info after I reboot

Hope that helps some,

Austin

 

May be a little fuzzy i had to blow it up some

 

you might as well fix it for him. lol.
I am just amazed that this site (you guys) have SOO much knowledge about these trucks.
I read for hours and am very thankful.

after it stops snowing I am going to go check my truck. heck you gave me pics so I should go right to it.
yes I said its snowing. Loving it. good old Montana. its COLD ever year for the trick or treaters. which is good cause its more candy for me. lol

 

Ah yes, All Hallows Eve in Montana. I remember sitting in the Wagoneer while it was snowing it's butt off, while my wife was leading the littles one's from house to house down on the "flats" in Butte.

Our first winter there...wind chill freeze down to -52F, my boss didn't kill his pickup for 3 days, diesel rigs gelling up all over and my Bronco's PCV valve kept freezing up causing the pressure to build up and push oil out the dip stick tube.

Yes, winters in Butte...not for the timid.

 

Thanks guys.....yes, why don't ya come fix it for me? LOL. I'll check it out tomorrow, if I get time. Now that we have identified it...lube it with something, replace it or what? Thanks again for ALL YOUR HELP!

 

Slide the retaining clip toward the turbocharger housing, and disconnect the exhaust back pressure valve actuator rod from the exhaust back pressure valve.
That way you'll see if its anything internal that's binding. If it is you might have to gut it if lubing everything doesn't do it.
There's also a solenoid down there on the turbo pedestal that actuates it.
I'd give that a look too.

Austin

 

Had a chance to look at my PSD alittle while ago and I see the thingy that "amiller93" showed me in the drawing that he posted. Started the truck with the remote start and the lever and rod seemed to move outward just a bit and then slowly moved the other way in a time frame of about 30 seconds untill it seemed to move to the right as far as it could. Is this the way it is supposed to work? All of this was observed at idle and the outside air temp was around 65 degrees.

Whats the gadget above this thing that has a rod attached to it that is about 6in long with one end that looks to be attached to a small vacum type thing that has a red wire comming out of it and the other end of the rod looks to be attached to a lever that operates something in the exhaust side of the Turbo? With the motor running at idle, that rod never did move. Is this normal? Thanks

 

Sound about right the EBPV actuates at start as a self test then releases Unless it is cold and goes into "warmup" mode. The other doodad is the wastegate actuator it will start to open at about 5psi of boost

 

That canister and rod assembly is the Wastegate Control and actuator Canister. That red line is a pressure line, boost referenced to the manifold boost. When boost is 5-10 psi, the solenoid opens and puts pressure on a diaphragm in that canister. There is a flapper valve that covers a port in the side of the turbine housing. When the diaphragm moves, the wastegate control rod extends to the right, and it opens this flapper valve. The port is uncovered, and the drive pressure (exhaust) takes the easiest path out of the turbo, and the reduced flow through the turbocharer limits it's speed. Here is a pic of the flapper valve. Click on it.

 

This might help as well.
I have a theory about the design strategy involving the EBPV.
I suspect that the PCM (powertrain control module) monitors the readings from the exhaust pressure sensor and uses them to control how tightly to close the EBPV. If I were having the trouble that you are experiencing right now I would be cleaning/replacing the tube from the passenger side manifold to the sender and possibly replacing the sender as well. Don't quote me on this one as I am uncertain.

I've also found through trial and error that the temperature sender on the side of the bottom half of the air filter housing is involved in the design. If you unplug it, the cold engine fast idle never happens.
Also, since I bought my AIS, it came with a new temperature sensor installed in the side of the filter housing. It sends a different reading than my old one because it has to be REALLY cold out before the fast idle happens. With the old sender the temps have to only be down to 60 degrees. The newer one, much colder. So I switch them back and forth in the winter. I like the fast idle and quick warmup that the EBPV gives.